Rear defogger causes static in radio.
#23
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Certified Car Nut
I'm with William, especially if it comes from several sources. Could be the battery ground to the body/chassis. Could be a ground wire fixed in the trunk. Could be the antenna ground itself.
#25
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I had that problem and found out the on the passenger side on the right of your legs under the plastic, there is a connection for the radio. Mine pulled out partially. Pushed it back in and the radio works great. My problem now is the Module ASM-RDO Ant Part #22618677.
Mine fried the wires for my defroster and the radio antenna goes through that Module also. The antenna is in the window grid. Would anyone know where I could get one, good used.GM wants $169.00 for this little box.
Mine fried the wires for my defroster and the radio antenna goes through that Module also. The antenna is in the window grid. Would anyone know where I could get one, good used.GM wants $169.00 for this little box.
#26
Senior Member
Gm parts online lists that part at $111. Search around for pricing on it.
You should buy the OE part though. When the ant/defogger module goes it is because often the wires melt going into module. I have heard going in with larger diameter wire is what is needed to stop a new one from frying. If it get used lots they wont last a year.
Mine is fried too and I used it only for short bursts and turned it off as quick as the window was cleared.
You should buy the OE part though. When the ant/defogger module goes it is because often the wires melt going into module. I have heard going in with larger diameter wire is what is needed to stop a new one from frying. If it get used lots they wont last a year.
Mine is fried too and I used it only for short bursts and turned it off as quick as the window was cleared.
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1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
#27
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Thank you for your reply. So do I have to take heavier wire right from the defogger switch or would I splice it in where the two wire burnt going into the module. What gauge of wire would you think I would need? I will need to but the end that plugs into the module also,as that melted & burnt the module inside too. Any suggestions are appreciated.
#28
Senior Member
Just rewire /splice as close as you can going into the module with anything thicker than the oe wires. For this applications 16ga in an Ancor Marine grade would do it.
Tin Copper with better shielding wont fry like junk copper auto wires.
When I re-wired the high output alternator I was able to find on the spool Accor Marine grade at a local marine supply retail out let. I also use Ancor heat shink tubing that stuff is sticky and really will seal it.
Link about Ancor: Available in red & black.
Wire & Cable | Marinco
Quality Wires that you can count on !
Tin Copper with better shielding wont fry like junk copper auto wires.
When I re-wired the high output alternator I was able to find on the spool Accor Marine grade at a local marine supply retail out let. I also use Ancor heat shink tubing that stuff is sticky and really will seal it.
Link about Ancor: Available in red & black.
Wire & Cable | Marinco
Quality Wires that you can count on !
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1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
#30
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I am back asking question again on the rear defroster on a 2003 Olds Alero. I replaced the module and the wires to the module. I have a green light on the switch that turns on the defroster. I have replaced the fuse under the hood. I still can not get power to the grid. Any ideas out there. Stumped now.
2003 Olds Alero 2 door.
2003 Olds Alero 2 door.