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Were the locks and windows working before you started changing the wiring?
Yes, although the passenger windows was sluggish. I find a 50a fuse burned out under the hood, which served all those components. I think that the strain put on the circuit from a bad motor may have burned the fuse. At least that'* the working theory. I just ordered a powerprobe III to make testing easier. I've heard good things about them.
Buy a can of silicone spray........with the window down(may have to help it by pushing down on the window), spray the front and rear window guides(this is what the window slides in....use the red extension tube that comes with the can to get into the grooves) with silicone....operate the window up/down, and spray again....do this several times......it might help the window'* movement,,,,,,
If the window ***** one way or the other while going up/down, could have a regulator or window attachment problem.....have seen the plastic tabs that attach the window to the regulator break....
Buy a can of silicone spray........with the window down(may have to help it by pushing down on the window), spray the front and rear window guides(this is what the window slides in....use the red extension tube that comes with the can to get into the grooves) with silicone....operate the window up/down, and spray again....do this several times......it might help the window'* movement,,,,,,
If the window ***** one way or the other while going up/down, could have a regulator or window attachment problem.....have seen the plastic tabs that attach the window to the regulator break....
That windows , currently, does nothing when I press the switch. All of the other windows work fine. Perhaps the motor was right on the edge of frying. I'm buying a Power Probe III to do some general circuit checking.
That windows , currently, does nothing when I press the switch. All of the other windows work fine. Perhaps the motor was right on the edge of frying. I'm buying a Power Probe III to do some general circuit checking.
Powerprobe 4, you'll thank me later. I had the 3, found the 4 and sold my 3 to a friend in the shop for $50.
Powerprobe 4, you'll thank me later. I had the 3, found the 4 and sold my 3 to a friend in the shop for $50.
Hey Mike,
I looked at them side-by-side and didn't see much additional value for the casual backyard mechanic. What, to you, are the features that make the IV worth the extra $$?
As far as diagnosing the window, one of the best tools you can make is, get a socket for a 194a bulb, a 194 a bulb,, and then go to any GM dealer to get two male fittings(they will know which ones that go into the majority of the harness connectors) and crimp them onto the wire ends of the socket.....great little test light.....
the terminals look like the 3 male plugs in this picture:
Now, you can either pull the passenger switch, or the door panel......back probe the switch or if panel removed, just disconnect the harness to motor and plug your light into the harness......use either the passenger switch or the driver'* switch, and command window up/down....should light in BOTH directions....if it does, bad motor....if it doesn't, wiring problem.....
Powerprobe 3
Ability to Power Up Components
• Audible Tones Features
• Voltmeter
• 12 -24 VDC Range
• 20 Ft. Power Cable
• Positive/Negative Voltage Indicator
• Continuity Tester
• Short Circuit Indicator
• Relay And Component Tester