haha well I'll put more information out as soon as I get it.

uhm...the crank isn't usually the part that breaks, it'll probably be your rods and/or piston. In which case they may be thrown up into your heads and bust those up nicely. A valve will probably be open at that time and be destroyed, also used as a small bomb to destroy more of the heads. Its also possible that you could gouge enough material from the cylinder walls to make the block basically useless....I had the same mentality when I knew I was going to rebuild my motor, but its a bad way to think.

Stop ! .... I can't sleep if you talk like that.

It will never break it will never break it will never break

I feel better now.

haha fear is better than sorrow

You're going to want head/valvetrain work. Your heads are avg joe 3.8L heads. They're not made to flow for a 4.3L, with optimized flows for fuel injection etc.

And doesn't the compression go up as well?

On the ZZP kit yes, however this is a custom (or aussie) setup Doc has shown us for series I.

It is not the 4.3 L crank, it'* a modified 3.8 crank...

That means premium, you may want a tuned PCM, maybe new injectors (l67 would be fine for n/a applications) etc. Larger TB would be nice too.

I'm sure if you jack up the cubes all the normal hotrodding stuff would apply. More fuel, more air. etc. Maybe, in my case, a good home porting job with some bigger valves
( spec taken from a 4.3 liter ) and bigger injectors. Whechever ones will fit.
Maybe the FMS or a F body squirters.

Anyway, .5 liter isn't that big of jump. I have saw MANY 5.0'* run with a stroker engine that had stock externals.

JLathem

uhhhhhhh if it'* a stroker motor... they aren't stock internals.....

any 5.0 kit on the market is atleast crank and rods... the stupid thing is on the 5.0 EFI front in the mustang'* ..the internals aren't the weak point... the block is

basically what it comes down to is ANY stroker crank you put in a motor is going to require some form of modification to the piston height @ TDC to stay at or close to factory compression... there are a few motors that adding a stroker crank with stock rods and pistons is liveable CR wise... but not very many

as for bottle feeding your engine .. you should be able to put ATLEAST a 75 wet shot on it.... if worried... get ahold of a jacobs nitrous mastermind... it'll take the inital Smack out of nitrous engage ment.. and probably even allow you to run more of a shot

He said externals

Its not required to modify your heads.

This was custom built, not a modified stock crank.

---

So I got some word back today, here'* whats up so far. (to save typing time some stuff is taken word-for-word)

[It] has a stroke increase from 86.36 to 96mm, with a .020" over bore that equates to 4.258L capacity, or 4.302L with a .040" over bore. The extra stroke makes a huge difference to power produced, without the need for high revs and rough low-speed running. A 35% increase is readily available.

The rods are standard Series I (with some mods, more info later) but its recommended you use the Series II pistons because they're hypereutectic or forged is always better.

Adjacent big end journals on these cranks have a 30 degree offset. To strengthen this area engineers advise thickening the flange between the journals from 3mm to 4mm. This increases shear resistance by approximately 20% and that radiused journals give a similar degree of added strength over under cut journals. Both features are incorporated into these cranks.

Heavier counter balancing webs are designed for easy balancing before final assembly. once piston and rod weights have been established, fit your harmonic balancer and flexplate and the balancing can be done. We are not in the engine reconditioning business and have designed the crankshaft for economical engine rebuilding by the mechanic of your choice.

[It] will reach TDC approximately 4mm from the deck and give a CR of about 9.2:1

A test motor fitted with one of these cranks has successfully run at 7000rpm

This crankshaft is not intended for high revs. With the 11% longer stroke, piston speeds and the piston and conrod accelaration/deelaration forces make unreasonable demands on the production components we suggest for this conversion.

Some internal clearancing at the cylinder block is neccessary, adjacent to the connecting rods. take care at the oil gallery.


The rest is normal V6 assembly.

standard V6 125-130BHP @ the wheels
test car with 4.3 stroker 177 BHP @ the wheels