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Series 1 Intercooler. working well, VIDS on page 11.

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Old 03-05-2008, 01:15 PM
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Old 03-05-2008, 02:56 PM
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The tubing I chose should hold stable temps for long enough to shoot it on the output of the core. You're right. Within a couple degrees of ambient there would be a good indicator. And how much higher or lower it is after cruising/idling or sprints.

My gut instict says I'm VERY thermally efficient at least with regards to the sizes. Volume/surface area difference is HUGE between them. Somewhere around 10:1 by rough guessing based on height/width/thickness alone. Hard to say for sure since they're two totally different types of cores.

I can try to get some numbers by the weekend. Maybe at lunch in a few minutes for starters. I carry a non-contact thermometer in the car. The real test will be to see if that efficiency 'holds water' as the ambient temps start rising as we get closer to spring. We're at about 50F outside right now.
Old 03-05-2008, 04:08 PM
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54 ambient when we return (on the ECC and shooting the fender temperature). 55 on the return hose between the 'cold' side of the front radiator and the pump, where it'* not in the direct air path (inside the front bumper between the license plate and foglight). Pretty much 1 degree or less from ambient in 5 measurements about an inch apart.

The efficiency of the system so far isn't limited by the front radiator (as I suspected) but by the ability to the smaller IC core to remove heat from the boost charge.

Greyhare and I just took these measurements when we parked after lunch. I ran 2nd gear back from lunch, and first gear from the gate to the lot to keep the LIM temps up as well as I could under partial boost.....with a little throtlle playing and short sprints mixed in.
Old 03-11-2008, 10:27 PM
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hey bill, i had a question stemming from this pic.
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did you put something over the place you re-sweated?

and also, how did you seal the holes for the in/out in the LIM?
Old 03-11-2008, 10:39 PM
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Yes, and in the more recent topic (Update on Zilla) you can see the same thing, slightly aged.

I put JB Weld over the areas to give them more strength and a second insurance policy against leaks.

The holes in the LIM where the water enters and exits were countersunk to fit o-rings. O-rings were placed over the copper lines, 27B Permatex was inserted in the gap/countersink, the o-rings were pressed into that, and more 27B was applied over the rings.

No leaks yet up to 11psi peak. But remember, my holes are only SLIGHTLY larger than the outside pipe diameter (not touching, so I don't get thermal transfer....the idea is to cool the air, not the LIM itself), but close enough that a very durable sealant like 27B, coupled with the extra insurance of an embedded o-ring would be more than enough.

Being a prototype, this is fine. The final version will have cone washers clamped into place by rings screwed into pre-tapped holes in the end of the LIM.
Old 03-11-2008, 11:00 PM
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The holes in the LIM where the water enters and exits were countersunk to fit o-rings. O-rings were placed over the copper lines, 27B Permatex was inserted in the gap/countersink, the o-rings were pressed into that, and more 27B was applied over the rings.

No leaks yet up to 11psi peak. But remember, my holes are only SLIGHTLY larger than the outside pipe diameter (not touching, so I don't get thermal transfer....the idea is to cool the air, not the LIM itself), but close enough that a very durable sealant like 27B, coupled with the extra insurance of an embedded o-ring would be more than enough.

Being a prototype, this is fine. The final version will have cone washers clamped into place by rings screwed into pre-tapped holes in the end of the LIM.
I hope the final version is coming soon cause I don't like the current sealing design. It won't last without problems. Just a feeling cause the o-ring is not under compression. :?
Old 03-11-2008, 11:13 PM
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Paul, it'* energy distribution. Think of the surface area of the exposed sealant compared to the countersunk sealed hole on the outside. When the 27B is splooged into the countersink, it 'rolls out' into the LIM creating a larger bead than the gap.

I may have to draw a cross-section picture.

It'* a tapered plug with a very small gap for the internal pressures to act on.

The final version will be in another LIM that I don't have my hands on yet. But this one has taken sustained boost for countless WOT runs.
Old 03-11-2008, 11:47 PM
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Here you go:

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The adhesion, compressive resistance, and absolute durability of the 27b isn't something I can explain to you until you've experienced it (you don't want to have to clean this stuff up once it'* cured, it'* tougher than a cockroach in a greasy kitchen).



This sucker ain't going to leak while it'* on my car.
Old 03-12-2008, 12:15 AM
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Glad you are confident with the 27B epoxy cause the o-ring isn't doing much for sealing.

Need to get back to why #2 and #5 are not firing. :?
Old 03-12-2008, 12:24 AM
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I'm not worried about the coils. The SLE will test those. If I have to replace them, I will (they've served their life well under my hood), and if that'* not it, it'* the ICM and I have a couple spares.

Paul, if you were here and saw how tiny the gap is between the LIM holes and the copper pipes, you'd stop worrying. It'* about half a millimeter all the way around. The pic above isn't to scale.


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