Pry gonna need to put a new diff in soon
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Pry gonna need to put a new diff in soon
Since the SS M90 it is so easy to spin the tires you don't even have to try, unfortunately 2 times now I have been trying to get out of the way of traffic and have to move quick while turning and it goes into protection by diabling injectors and limiting speed, etc...
I was talking to someone at Morad'* today and he said get a cluch based one from Engineered Performance, that way burnouts won't mess me up, and if I do blow the diff I might as well replace the whole tranny, $600 vs $1000+ seems like a good idea to me, just looking for some thoughts
I was talking to someone at Morad'* today and he said get a cluch based one from Engineered Performance, that way burnouts won't mess me up, and if I do blow the diff I might as well replace the whole tranny, $600 vs $1000+ seems like a good idea to me, just looking for some thoughts
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Well I have the HD diff, cover, and harness but it'* still an open diff which means still gotta watch doing one wheels or donuts at all, I might put it in since I have it so at least I don't blow it up while I save up for the clutch based one which provides 50/50 to each wheel
#4
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Funny you bring this up. I swapped an HD upgrade into a turbo Regal this weekend. (nice car btw).
A true HD diff upgrade includes the diff, diff cover, washer and bearing, right side HD axle (shorter than stock non-hd axle) and the HD output shaft.
Pull both sxles, pull diff cover, pop diff off output shaft, slide output shaft gently out the left side. Slide the new one in being gently to be nice to the lube dam, put in the diff, washer and bearing, diff cover, seat the output shaft in the diff, then put the axles back in.
Dave at TripleedgePerformance suggests stock diffs over clutch based. I've learned a lot from him.
A true HD diff upgrade includes the diff, diff cover, washer and bearing, right side HD axle (shorter than stock non-hd axle) and the HD output shaft.
Pull both sxles, pull diff cover, pop diff off output shaft, slide output shaft gently out the left side. Slide the new one in being gently to be nice to the lube dam, put in the diff, washer and bearing, diff cover, seat the output shaft in the diff, then put the axles back in.
Dave at TripleedgePerformance suggests stock diffs over clutch based. I've learned a lot from him.
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the output shaft is that straight metal bar right?
I have a ZZP stage 2 on the way, diff, diff cover, might not have the washer and bearing but I'm going to take it to a place down the street to be overhauled so they can get parts that I don't have
I have a ZZP stage 2 on the way, diff, diff cover, might not have the washer and bearing but I'm going to take it to a place down the street to be overhauled so they can get parts that I don't have
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not sure if I have that, my buddy got it from a guy on Regalgs and it was missing random things, i haven't looked in awhile but IIRC it had the diff, the housing, the wiring harness and all the solinoids, and maybe another sensor or 2
since it'* still an open diff are burnouts a bad idea?
since it'* still an open diff are burnouts a bad idea?
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Don't do 1 wheel burn outs. I don't even push is when I'm turning. If you pull the diff the output shaft will either come out with the diff. Or stay behind, in that case you just need to look and you will see a shaft with splines on the outside of the shaft.