Porting, Polishing, and some cosmetics. No 56k
#11
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I'm going to decrease the cross-sectional area of the throttle plate and shaft at the WOT position. In my mind, they should have used counter-sunk flathead screws, and should have relieved the other half of the shaft. Take a look at yours at WOT and you'll see what I mean. It may only be 1 or 2% better flow, but it'* free for me, and I need all the flow through the bore that I can get.
#12
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I have an idea on the fuel rail height problem that willwren showed me the other night.
Hilborn sells a threaded injector that will screw in the manifold. But...they are spendy. Even at my dealer price, they are around $80 each.
I'd be happy to try to make willwren'* injector a screw in unit as an experiment. I'd turn off the oring shoulder on a lathe and make it a nice even size, turn some pipe plugs or AN boss fittings to be a light press fit, and then press the plug on with some monster gorilla epoxy. This way, the fuel rail wouldn't be needed to hold the injector into the manifold any more. Of course we'd tap the manifold holes to match.
A person could cut the stock fuel rail and flare it using some AN tubing flare adapters and braided hose to a distribution block. The pressure regulator could be plumbed into the distribution block too. This way, you wouldn't need to spend $130 on injector to hose adapters. The stock fuel rail would be the coupling. I think that'* the cheapest solution. I don't know what I'd have to charge to convert an injector to screw in status. Wilwren and I could work that out the first time and then I'd know for future units. Much less than $80 each I'm sure!
How about it willwren? Wanna be an experiment?
Hilborn sells a threaded injector that will screw in the manifold. But...they are spendy. Even at my dealer price, they are around $80 each.
I'd be happy to try to make willwren'* injector a screw in unit as an experiment. I'd turn off the oring shoulder on a lathe and make it a nice even size, turn some pipe plugs or AN boss fittings to be a light press fit, and then press the plug on with some monster gorilla epoxy. This way, the fuel rail wouldn't be needed to hold the injector into the manifold any more. Of course we'd tap the manifold holes to match.
A person could cut the stock fuel rail and flare it using some AN tubing flare adapters and braided hose to a distribution block. The pressure regulator could be plumbed into the distribution block too. This way, you wouldn't need to spend $130 on injector to hose adapters. The stock fuel rail would be the coupling. I think that'* the cheapest solution. I don't know what I'd have to charge to convert an injector to screw in status. Wilwren and I could work that out the first time and then I'd know for future units. Much less than $80 each I'm sure!
How about it willwren? Wanna be an experiment?
#13
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by willwren
I'm going to decrease the cross-sectional area of the throttle plate and shaft at the WOT position. In my mind, they should have used counter-sunk flathead screws, and should have relieved the other half of the shaft. Take a look at yours at WOT and you'll see what I mean. It may only be 1 or 2% better flow, but it'* free for me, and I need all the flow through the bore that I can get.
Are you going to make the shaft resemble the top of an air foil?
#15
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Those are the original set, rebuilt and flow matched. They're just prettier now. And slightly insulated. Cold fuel ionizes better. Ceramic header paint.
95, not like an airfoil at all. With an airfoil, more air would flow to one side than the other because of a pressure differential. I'm talking about simply milling the round half of the throttle shaft like the side the screws goes into is. And replacing the button-head screws with flat head screws countersunk into the shaft, so they don't sit in the airstream.
Chris, I'm tempted, but I want to look into one POSSIBLY cheaper option on the fuel rail first. The intercooler is going on 3 or 4 cars later this summer or early fall, and this is the biggest obstacle, but not the only one.
95, not like an airfoil at all. With an airfoil, more air would flow to one side than the other because of a pressure differential. I'm talking about simply milling the round half of the throttle shaft like the side the screws goes into is. And replacing the button-head screws with flat head screws countersunk into the shaft, so they don't sit in the airstream.
Chris, I'm tempted, but I want to look into one POSSIBLY cheaper option on the fuel rail first. The intercooler is going on 3 or 4 cars later this summer or early fall, and this is the biggest obstacle, but not the only one.
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Bill, i'm not sure if i said it right.
I drew a quick paint pic of what i ment.
This is looking from the pivot point of the TB plate at WOT.
The blade is yellow, the shaft is grey, and the arrows show the direction of the air.
Wouldn't this shape have the least amount of turbulance?
I drew a quick paint pic of what i ment.
This is looking from the pivot point of the TB plate at WOT.
The blade is yellow, the shaft is grey, and the arrows show the direction of the air.
Wouldn't this shape have the least amount of turbulance?
#20
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bloomington-Normal, IL 1997 SE
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Originally Posted by 95naSTA
Bill, i'm not sure if i said it right.
I drew a quick paint pic of what i ment.
This is looking from the pivot point of the TB plate at WOT.
The blade is yellow, the shaft is grey, and the arrows show the direction of the air.
Wouldn't this shape have the least amount of turbulance?
I drew a quick paint pic of what i ment.
This is looking from the pivot point of the TB plate at WOT.
The blade is yellow, the shaft is grey, and the arrows show the direction of the air.
Wouldn't this shape have the least amount of turbulance?