Thrasher uses accordion tubing, wizard air uses dryer duct with an accordion design, and ZZP sells accordion rubber tubing for custom intakes. All are designed for the GTP'*. I have not seen a lot of talk about the detrimental effects of accordion tubing on the ClubGP site. I have however seen talk of keeping bends in the piping to a minimum. I think that is why the Thrasher and the Wiz Air are liked. They have no bends from the filter to the intake. I was trying to get as close as possible to no bends as I could.

Do you know if the bend that you have (30-45*) with smooth intake surfaces throughout is better than a strait through intake with accordion piping on the throttle body?

I guess optimally, a strait pipe with no bends would be the best. I have seen the reducers listed in another post, they are rubber with no accordion. Is that what you would recommend? Thanks,

You don't have a GP. You're going to have to come to terms with that. The accordian is cheaper fo them to deal with, and they have MUCH LESS ROOM to work with. Yes, the thrasher and wiz CAI systems would be more efficient without the accordian.

Sorry

Might not be that easy. The thrasher CAI doesn't move, right?

But your engine does? Make sure your reduce/coupler to your TB can flex. You don't want THICK turbo reducers and such.

Cool, maybe I can find a way to make my GTP flow even better. I will get a reducer and try to seal up my new set up. (and my thrasher throttle body rubber). Thanks,

The intake is only mounted wtih velcro...It is somewhat flexible and does move a little..

You're modding. Prepare yourself for the fact that you don't have the upper dogbone mount the GP'* do to prevent engine movement. Now figure out that if the engine tilts 5° under load, that CAI is going to WANT to move.

I failed to explain a key point here. More air will flow in a laminar fashion. When you induce turbulence, the total flow is decreased.

Laminar flow is necessary for performance as well as getting the most accurate reading on the MAF sensor as possible to get the optimal fueling from the PCM based on it'* understanding of what'* coming in.

After I get rid of the accordion and make sure that the pipe is flexible...

I would like to know what drop on the 94-95 SI L67 is doable wtih colder plugs, exhaust, intake, 180 therm and NO Pcm work? I realize that PCM work is favorable, but I just want a safe mod to get me a little more power.

ZZP'* website says that a 2.7 is a safe drop from 2.85. Pulley Boys says you can get away with more. What has your experience been.

ZZP isn't very familiar with the Series 1 at all, and only recently started selling pulleys for it. I don't know of anyone running one of theirs.

Most 94/95 L67'* go to the stock 92/93 pulley at 2.5", or a 2.5" from www.pulleyboys.com but it'* very important to understand whether your fuel pressure is good enough first, and you must have a scantool to check for KR afterwards. Be prepared to spend more money to kill the KR if you get any. So simply put, if you pulley, don't let that be ALL your budget. Have a couple hundred more around in case you need it to battle KR.

Assuming your fuel pressure is good, and you have no cracks in your exhuas manifolds (these are VERY hard if not impossible to see while they're on the car), you'll PROBABLY be ok to a 2.5" pulley with plugs one heatrange colder, a 180 thermo, intake, and a high-flow cat (preferred).