What'* hidden under the switches and **** stay there until tested. And it'* not as simple as it appears. I spent two days with over 20 bookmarks in the FSM'* to pull this off.

interesting. just tell me this if you can, is there much wiring involved?

so that'* why you didn't answer your phone.


looks hot though.

I would like to know where you plan to mount it though.

Your welcome Bill.
I'm giving away all my tricks before the Meet. Meh. I don't go to the Meets to win anything, just have a good time and share with my friends.

Looks good but... ZZP E-stat? That is for new car with PCMs that will throw a code when running a colder or drilled thermostat. Why would you need this?

It'* not just the newer PCM'*. I'm opening the door to the possibility of running the 160°
thermostat in the summer. The OBD2 PCM'* will throw a light and cause issues with being
stuck in open loop, ignoring the oxygen sensor. The OBD1 PCM does the SAME THING, but
won't throw an SES light. That can wreak havoc on your fueling when trying to run cool.
Particularly at the track when running a very cool thermostat, and icing down between runs.

No, I failed to answer because I got called back to work less than an hour after I got OUT
of there.

Mounting won't be permanent. I don't need this all the time. For the time being, I'll have a
hard drive magnet temporarily attached to the bottom inside of the box. All I have to do
is lift my ashtray forward of the shifter, pop another magnet under it'* lid, and it'll hold
the box right there. I chose the box size specifically for that purpose.

I literally went though all of the Series 2 options from our list of vendors trying to figure
out which ideas could be made to work with the Series 1 or OBD1 in some other
manner. This is the result of the first round. More of a test/tune box than anything at
this point. Just because the OBD2 stuff won't work with our cars doesn't mean the IDEA
won't work.

Lowrider, there is delicate wiring involved. Both inside the box and at the PCM. My
current circuit design calls for a 9-wire harness. This doesn't include LED indicators
which may come later.

The high speed fan override will be simplified by grounding the fan relay in the cabin of
the car rather than running that wire through the firewall.

The Estat idea works better for us since we only have to trick one of TWO ECT sensors.
Series 2 cars only have one ECT sensor. This way our gauge still reads the TRUE temp.

The happy **** idea is simpler on the OBD1 due to the fact that we don't have MAP
sensors (SSEi'* DO have MAP sensors but they are not used as a PCM input for fueling.
they are only for the boost gauge). There are potential problems with the Happy ****
idea though. That'* why I'm building the box. It needs to be tested.

The Estat and timing advance **** won't be much benefit to someone that doesn't
run at the track. I'm doing it for more efficiency at Woodburn in the scorching heat
of 100° air temps and 135° track temps, AND the Bonneville Salt Flats in September.

I like the ideas.... like them a lot.

When Randy and I met Paul and he mentioned how the fan override worked I thought about it and have been thinking since then. I like your approach.

Considering my PCM location, things are much more simplified. Fan override will no longer be done at the relay.

If you already have the fan override done at the relay, is there any advantage to changing it to bo done in the dash?

Sure. No wire through the firewall to short to ground and leave them on at all times. Cleaner wiring for the maxifuse relay center too.