OK. Ive had a number of people email me about the intake instruction sheet that I made while building mine. So instead of emailing it to 40 people Im gonna be lazy and post it here in plain text. Hopefully it will come out decent. I may also post it on my schools server so that you can actually download the text file for yourself if you want. So without further delay... HERE IT IS!!!

I also have posted new pictures of the intake and some of its parts on my cardomain site for additional help should anybody decide to undertake this project.


Bonneville Cold Air Intake Instructions

*By using these instructions you agree that I am in no way responsible for anything that may
happen to your car/engine either during or after the installation.

Basically mine works because I took the time to carefully think and plan it out. These
instructions are merely a guide for you to follow should you wish to undertake this project.

Also: Depending on emmissions requirements where you live, your car may or may not pass em
inspection with this device installed.

To be on the safe side, I chose to keep the stock air box and whenever my car requires an
inspection I will return the car to factory condition.



**** This is NOT a One day Project*****
It took me roughly a week and a half (working for 2 hours a day) to
completely finish it.

This WILL require some creativity on your part..

I suggest that you thoroughly read through these instructions and completely understand
them before taking on this project.

I will be happy to provide you with assistance thru E-mail or Thru AIM or Yahoo Messenger
My User name for both services is Edmund944 and my e-mail address can be found on cardomain.com

In the event that you have an emergency or desperately need help
my cell phone number is 315 254 0295
Dont abuse it and Use it wisely please.


This installation worked fairly well with my 1995 Bonneville because of its stock air box
configuration. When I removed the stock air box I was left with a short rubber adapter
on my throttle body which I used for this installation.
Your Bonneville may or may not have this adapter, or one that is similar to mine.
If your car doesn't have a rubber adapter similar to mine then I suggest you use a rubber
PVC coupling joint. It is basically a section of thick rubber pipe with a tightening screw
band on each end. They are available at Home Depot and you might have to do some experimenting
to find the right combination of pipes and adapters.





MATERIALS:

-2 foot x 4 foot sheet of 3/16" plexi glass (30-40 dollars)
-1 roll of pipe insulation tape (3 dollars)
-Approximately 3 or 4 dozen 1 inch L brackets
-2 machine screws and 2 nuts for each L bracket (3/4" #6 type)
-3" diameter Mandrel U-bend exhaust pipe (Jegs.com part number:289-42323)
-K&N Cone filter (Jegs.com part number:599-RU-3130)
-About 1.5 inch length of 3" internal diameter PVC
-1 can (color of choice) High Temp Engine paint (4 dollars)
-Tube of clear silocone caulk/sealer (optional)




STEPS:

-Remove Stock Air Box Assembly

-Obtain dimensions for the Air box you wish to build
-I made my box 8 inches deep
-Use a measuring tape to get the exact dimensions you need for your car.
You should be able to obtain accurate dimensions by basing the shape of your
box on what mine looks like. Basically just measure out something that will fit
in the same place where I put mine.
-You dont need to make a front side to the box (the part directly behind the headlight)
because this is where most of the air will come in. There are places for air to flow
behind the headlight from the front grille and also from the opening above your
driver-side fog light
-You also dont need a bottom panel, since it will be covered by part of the cars frame.


-Replace the stock air box (unless you plan on not driving untill you finish the new one)

-Once you have your dimensions, draw and cut them out of the sheet of plexi-glass
-I used a hand held jig-saw with a fine tooth blade and it worked fine, no burrs or cracks
-If you are careful with your part placement on the sheet you should have a good amount
of it left over
-Do not peel off the glass covering before cutting. This will help prevent damage to the glass
while working on it

-Instead of Pre-Drilling all of your holes at once, believe it or not, it is easier to drill them
as you go along and piece the box together.
-If at all possible try to drill with the covering on as well
-A standard drill bit, roughly the same diameter of the machine screws will work fine

-Assemble your sides using the L brackets and machine screws and nuts.
-They can be tightened using a screwdriver and pair of pliers
-Try not to tighten them too much, otherwise you may crack the glass
-Do not put on the back panel at this point. You will need to test fit your pipe and filter first
to see what kind of opening you need to cut in it.
-The pieces may not fit together as tight as a puzzle and some may need to be
"persuaded" into their correct place. As long as there are no corner gaps larger than 1/4 of an
inch you shouldnt have a problem. They can be closed up by other means later on.

-Once you finish assembling your box, you may choose to seal it with caulk. This isn't
absolutely necessary though. I opted not to and mine works just fine. Plus, i also dont know
how well caulk will react to high engine temperatures. Which brings us to the Insulating tape

-Use the insulating tape to cover the side of the box which faces the engine, and to cover any
accidental gaps there may be left between sides after assembly. This will help keep
engine heat out of the box, which is the entire point of the box.

-At this point you will also want to test how the box fits. You may need to move some cables around
a little, in order to get it in place. This is where your creativity will come into play again.

-Now you can cut the exhaust pipe to the desired length and angle. This is done basically by
holding the pipe up to your engine and "eyeballing" how you want it to fit. You can cut just about any angle
from a Mandrel U bend so you should have no problem getting the piece you want.
-Use a regular hack saw to cut the exhaust pipe and remember to file down the sharp edges afterwards
-You will also want to clean out the inside of the pipe, so that no metal files or dirt get into your engine
-Lightly go over the outside of the pipe with steel wool and then you can paint it
whatever color you like. I chose blue because it went nicely with my car.

-Once you figure out how your pipe will fit between the box and the engine, you can cut a hole
in the back side piece of your box so that the pipe fits through. I ended up making a U shaped
cut from the top of the piece about 3.5 inches wide and about 3.5 inches down.

-Now you can attach the back piece to the rest of your assembled box. At this point I lined the hole
in the back side piece with insulating tape to help close the gap around the pipe and to keep
the paint on the pipe from being scratched by the plexi glass.

-The next step is connecting the filter to the pipe. The first thing you will notice when doing
this is that the diameter of the filter opening is about a half inch larger than the diameter
of the pipe. Here, you will need to use a small section of the 3" internal diameter PVC pipe.
-Cut a slice approximately .5 inches thick so that you have a piece of PVC that somewhat
resembles a ring
-Once you cut your ring, you will have to cut about a quarter inch gap in it, so now what you have
looks like a piston ring. This will fit in between the pipe and the filter so that the filter can
fit tightly on the pipe. You may wish to paint the PVC spacer black or another color so that
it doesn't stick out.
-You will have to make another one of these in order to fit the intake pipe to the existing rubber
adapter that is attached to your throttle body. This one will fit between the pipe and the rubber
adapter much the same way as the other fit between the pipe and the filter

-At this point you are ready to finally install the intake system
-When doing this, you have to put both the air-box, and the filter/pipe assembly
in at the same time. In other words, put the pipe/filter assembly inside the box from
underneath with the open end of the pipe sticking out the back of the box.
-Then fit the box/pipe/filter into place
-Then attach the end of the pipe to the rubber adapter on your throttle body

THATS IT....... YOURE DONE!!!!!... almost...



you may want to use a heavy duty rubber bungee cord to hold the box in place since things have
a tendency to shift in the engine compartment during driving.
I used a 15 inch one. It isnt in the picture on the website however.

At this point you will want to disconnect your battery for about 30-45 seconds.
Then re-connect your battery and drive around regularly for a few minutes.

This allows your MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor readjust itself to the higher quantity of air coming
into the engine.

You may also notice more engine noise is present, more specifically a kind of sucking sound.
This is only the sound of the air flowing into your engine. Its nothing to be concerned about.
The only reason you didnt hear it before is because your stock intake muffled the sound.


-I cant think of anything else that need to tell you in order to complete the installation other than
USE YOUR HEAD. If something doesn't seem like it will work, ask somebody else about it. Ask me if you have to
Although I will be the first to admit that I DONT have all the answers, I certainly dont mind helping.

Have fun with your cars and let me know how things turn out.

Download this text file here:

http://www.rit.edu/~eta9065/BonIntake.txt

Believe me, i'm not trying to be like a d**k or anything but wouldn't it just be easier to hollow out the air box, chop off the front and side(near the front and away from the engine), make the hole bigger the the rear, and run a pipe and filter into that?
what you did is pretty unique and it looks good b/c you can see the filter and all but it reminds me alot of the stock air box. It is a little bigger too so that'* better. but i just think it'* alot cheaper and you would get almost the same, if not the same, result if you used the air box.

Well..besides that he is using a cone type filter and NOW with his custom box...what he actually has now is a Cold Air Box...ie...a heat shield...which IS a great idea for cooler incoming air temps...This is a great advantage...The only thing I would change or modify is possibly insulating this box just a little more...some type of heat resistant foam..ie..Space Shuttle stuff...just to keep heat out more efficently than the plexiglas and Tape....THIS IS GOOD STUFF.........

Thanks for the comments guys. Keep em coming. Im always looking for good suggestions.

i impled using a cone filter. plus it would still be a box, actually more inclosed since the plexi glass box has no bottom.

The entire bottom isnt open on mine, the only part that is left open is the front part where air coming from the "foglight area" can enter the box. I would recommend putting a bottom piece on the corner that is closest to the engine. If somebody were to make something similar to mine I would think that they would use their best judgement when doing so and change the plans to fit their application accordingly.

Yeah it is kind of an expensive project, when compared to just modifying the stock air box. I just did it because basically i thought the stock airbox looked like sh*t and wanted to try something kind of original.

However, if one were to do something like mine with a friend, the overall cost would be reduced substantially, because when i was done i had enough lexan and exhaust pipe to make whole other one. The only extra costs of making 2 would be the second filter and some hardware.

yeah when u look at it, it does put the stock air box to shame