HELP! - Scan Results for L36 w/ cam, high compression
12-04-2005 | 05:59 PM
#51
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From: South Bend, IN (hometown) Indianapolis,IN (college)
Originally Posted by willwren
I think a good scan of yours and a couple other known good L36'* may be in order.
Try cold idle, hot idle, 2000 rpm'* and 3000 rpm'*.
I can't help you there, as the only purpose of the MAP sensor on my 93 is for the boost reading (never reads manifold vac except at idle) and the 95 didn't get one, as it didn't come with a boost gauge.
Really need to compare to some L36'* here.
Try cold idle, hot idle, 2000 rpm'* and 3000 rpm'*.
I can't help you there, as the only purpose of the MAP sensor on my 93 is for the boost reading (never reads manifold vac except at idle) and the 95 didn't get one, as it didn't come with a boost gauge.
Really need to compare to some L36'* here.
what specific stats are you looking for? i can use a scan tool at school tom.
12-04-2005 | 06:23 PM
#52
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MAP readings at the rpm'* and conditions I posted above.
Cold idle (after the RPM'* settle, not right at startup)
Hot idle (above 175° ECT)
2000 rpms hot
3000 rpms hot (both of these in N)
Cold idle (after the RPM'* settle, not right at startup)
Hot idle (above 175° ECT)
2000 rpms hot
3000 rpms hot (both of these in N)
12-05-2005 | 09:39 AM
#54
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From: Central Florida
RE the vacuum question. FWIW, mine had a couple bad rubber vacuum connectors and would run like crap at idle and sometimes would choke at stoplights. $2 worth of rubber hose and a "T" connector later and everything was fine.
I know that you have a lot more going on than my stock L36, just FWIW.
I know that you have a lot more going on than my stock L36, just FWIW.
12-05-2005 | 12:45 PM
#55
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From: Glendale, AZ
Thanks for the input, lash. Doug and I tried to use a different connector, but we couldn't get it to fit correctly. I'm sure I'll figure something out, though.
Bill, I imagine you probably have some other type of rubber vacuum connectors on your car, because I can't fathom the stockers holding up after 12 years. Got any ideas for replacement vacuum lines/fittings? I'm not sure that I need them yet, but I think it would be excellent preventative maintenance, considering that at least one of mine is cracked.
Heck, that could be why I'm so lean... the bad fitting is part of the vacuum line that connects to the FPR. Right now the fitting is patched with RTV and being held on the TB with a zip tie, but it could very well be leaking. Maybe this calls for a vacuum system renovation?
Bill, I imagine you probably have some other type of rubber vacuum connectors on your car, because I can't fathom the stockers holding up after 12 years. Got any ideas for replacement vacuum lines/fittings? I'm not sure that I need them yet, but I think it would be excellent preventative maintenance, considering that at least one of mine is cracked.
Heck, that could be why I'm so lean... the bad fitting is part of the vacuum line that connects to the FPR. Right now the fitting is patched with RTV and being held on the TB with a zip tie, but it could very well be leaking. Maybe this calls for a vacuum system renovation?
12-05-2005 | 04:01 PM
#59
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From: Glendale, AZ
Hmmmm..... check out these two quotes from the 3800Pro thread I linked above:
According to this info, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere as well. I might head out and check my numbers after all.
For most n/a cars, idle vacuum should read around 18-25" Hg. At WOT it should read between 5-0" Hg. You can learn a lot from a vacuum gauge, but I just keep a portable one around for use in diagnosing my family'* cars.
All readings are based on atmospheric pressure, or barometric pressure. On a vacuum gauge that is the 0 (zero) reading. As you know, an engine is a pump so as it runs it draws air into the cylinders. When at idle the throttle plate is closed (or nearly closed) and you might have an idle bypass valve open. This means that the engine is having to draw air through a very narrow opening. When this is the case the engine will create a vacuum state (where the pressure of air in the plenum is less than atmospheric) and you will see a higher number on the guage. The smaller the opening the more vacuum you will have. So if you have a vacuum leak you will see less vacuum at idle than normal, a smaller number reading.
When at WOT the reading on the guage is an indication of how well the plenum can feed the air that the engine is demanding, but it also depends on spark advance and fuel. Todays engines are really efficient so you will see very close to 0 on the guage.
When at WOT the reading on the guage is an indication of how well the plenum can feed the air that the engine is demanding, but it also depends on spark advance and fuel. Todays engines are really efficient so you will see very close to 0 on the guage.
According to this info, you might have a vacuum leak somewhere as well. I might head out and check my numbers after all.