Header Install Advice....Headers are in...sorta
#21
Senior Member
True Car Nut
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got them today...yep they are going to leak. really stupid design they did, in all honesty it would not cost them much more to change the design a bit.
First stop is a machine shop, to mill out the "manifold plate" side and then they will mill the DP to exhaust side as it will obviously leak as well.
Still trying to come up with a better idea for the y pipe portion....
First stop is a machine shop, to mill out the "manifold plate" side and then they will mill the DP to exhaust side as it will obviously leak as well.
Still trying to come up with a better idea for the y pipe portion....
#22
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If I could do it again I would weld the y pipe to the rear header so now you only have 1 side to worry about. If you got them from ZZP, they made a modification to the y-ipie so it shouldn't leak.
#24
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Shoulda bought TOG'*.
Mine don't tick and they don't leak.
4 years now and no problems.......knock on wood.
Mine don't tick and they don't leak.
4 years now and no problems.......knock on wood.
Pacesetters: $300 shipped + work to fix them...
#26
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This is why I already told you you would have to get the Y pipe welded in. It fills up the big gap that they have in there. Did your crossover section come with the slits cut already? If not cut some and then RTV the crap out of it and get a good clamp. The one they send with them sucks.
Summary, weld the rear header to Y pipe. Clamp and RTV the crossover side when in.
My headers tick FWIW. Not bad, but it is there.
Summary, weld the rear header to Y pipe. Clamp and RTV the crossover side when in.
My headers tick FWIW. Not bad, but it is there.
#27
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
Nuf said.
Penny wise.......pound foolish.
You can do a lot of mods for $700.
Penny wise.......pound foolish.
You can do a lot of mods for $700.
#29
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True Car Nut
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$300 Shipped for Headers
$70 for Sandblasting and milling.
$50 for the coating
$30 for the misc stuff.
$55 shipped for the high flow cat
Not bad so far...Still trying to figure out what to use to cut the exhaust off.
#30
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Sawzall, hacksaw or an actual exhaust cutting chain. I found mine at Napa..but the cost is ~40-50. Looks like a pair of pliers with a chain on the end that cuts the pipe.
Sawzall works well if available. Because our exhausts are easy to remove as a complete unit. Maybe unbolt the downpipe from the manifold..drop and remove the entire exhaust. Then you could easily use a hacksaw (lowest cost method I can think of) when you know how long the pipe needs to be. Then reinstall.
Sawzall works well if available. Because our exhausts are easy to remove as a complete unit. Maybe unbolt the downpipe from the manifold..drop and remove the entire exhaust. Then you could easily use a hacksaw (lowest cost method I can think of) when you know how long the pipe needs to be. Then reinstall.