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Fogs with high beams? DONE....Now with pics.
#21
The kit? A piece of wire and an inline splice. You have to find the connector. In basic terms, it'* right behind the brake release handle below the column. Remove the hushpanel and look for the little black box under the column with two connectors on it. One looks like your ICM connector under the coils, the OTHER looks like this:
Note how I'm holding it. Row A is the upper row, Row B is the lower row.
You want this wire:
It'* light green with a black stripe, but there are two just like it in this connector (connector C2). You want wire A1, the farthest left on my finger.
NOT this one:
This is wire B8.
Insert an inline splice with a wire run to an alternate ground like this:
Then plug it back in, and re-install the hushpanel.
What this does is prevent the Light Control Module from 'stealing' the ground for the factory fogs when the highbeam headlights are switched on. You're simply providing an unswitched ground for the circuit.
And it works :
Not sure what years this will work on, but I'll go the bank on 92/93, all models.
Note how I'm holding it. Row A is the upper row, Row B is the lower row.
You want this wire:
It'* light green with a black stripe, but there are two just like it in this connector (connector C2). You want wire A1, the farthest left on my finger.
NOT this one:
This is wire B8.
Insert an inline splice with a wire run to an alternate ground like this:
Then plug it back in, and re-install the hushpanel.
What this does is prevent the Light Control Module from 'stealing' the ground for the factory fogs when the highbeam headlights are switched on. You're simply providing an unswitched ground for the circuit.
And it works :
Not sure what years this will work on, but I'll go the bank on 92/93, all models.
#23
Warning! It'* a ROYAL PITA getting to this connector. I went to this end of the circuit, as the OTHER possibility was buried behind the glovebox. Even pulling the inner liner out didn't provide access to the wire. This end of the circuit, under the column, is the only possibility without removing the entire dash.
It'* tricky to get a couple fingers on the connector, but I have the flip-down fuse block there. Your 95 might provide easier access. This connector is very hard to see from underneath. It'* actually tucked right up against the inside of the lower dash panel on my car.
It'* tricky to get a couple fingers on the connector, but I have the flip-down fuse block there. Your 95 might provide easier access. This connector is very hard to see from underneath. It'* actually tucked right up against the inside of the lower dash panel on my car.
#26
Don said it in a nutshell. My driving lights will illuminate the 'black space' between the high beams and the car, as well as more to the sides. I refer to them as fogs simply because that'* what the factory service manuals call them.
Running high beams in the fog is something you would never do anyway. This is for 'dark and stormy' or just dark nights when I use the highs. You can still turn the fogs/driving lights on and off at will. It doesn't change the function of the overhead switch, it just prevents the high beams from disabling them.
Running high beams in the fog is something you would never do anyway. This is for 'dark and stormy' or just dark nights when I use the highs. You can still turn the fogs/driving lights on and off at will. It doesn't change the function of the overhead switch, it just prevents the high beams from disabling them.
#28
Fogs are low and wide, so you can see the lines in heavy fog.
Driving lights light up the road infront of you, up to around 1000 feet or so. I don't use my high beams much anymore at all, the driving lights are better in many respects.
High beams aren't as bright as driving lights (in my case) and the only thing they do is go wide compared to driving lights. I try to stick with low beams in town as much as possible. On roads in the country or bad weather, the Driving lights ROCK. They're low so they don't glare. They litteraly saved our *** on the way to Toronto many many times. It'* good i picked some up cause smellbirds were dying.
I only turn on the high beams if I'm worried about deer and animals. The low beams with driving lights light the road better then highs with driving lights.
Driving lights light up the road infront of you, up to around 1000 feet or so. I don't use my high beams much anymore at all, the driving lights are better in many respects.
High beams aren't as bright as driving lights (in my case) and the only thing they do is go wide compared to driving lights. I try to stick with low beams in town as much as possible. On roads in the country or bad weather, the Driving lights ROCK. They're low so they don't glare. They litteraly saved our *** on the way to Toronto many many times. It'* good i picked some up cause smellbirds were dying.
I only turn on the high beams if I'm worried about deer and animals. The low beams with driving lights light the road better then highs with driving lights.
#30
Willwren'* are Pilot/Cyber White - Navigators Some have Angel eye rings, some have a blue LED to light up etc. ZZZZZekes aren't bad, but his are getting pretty pitted so he'* changing them. The Navigators look blue when not lit. about $40 for either model at walmart.
I have Hella/optilux angel eye driving lights. The bulbs are a bit brighter, but they look a little less white. But the ground looks like it'* pure white. And you get some silly angel eye halo'* on them. Mine are just chrome and glass, so they look perfectly white when off. About $56 @ www.grandprixstore.com
Where the hell is my lighting writeup, we should sticky it....
I have Hella/optilux angel eye driving lights. The bulbs are a bit brighter, but they look a little less white. But the ground looks like it'* pure white. And you get some silly angel eye halo'* on them. Mine are just chrome and glass, so they look perfectly white when off. About $56 @ www.grandprixstore.com
Where the hell is my lighting writeup, we should sticky it....