4T80E/Turbo-S/C... TIME FOR A NEW THREAD?
#51
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
Originally Posted by its840
you have a website?? im interested in knowing about your deawoo conversion...
i owned a lanos for a while and that thing was about as gutless as a idk.. it was realy slow...
back to topic.... how are you planing on twin screwing these??
i owned a lanos for a while and that thing was about as gutless as a idk.. it was realy slow...
back to topic.... how are you planing on twin screwing these??
I want to turbocharge the L67, leaving the */c on the engine. Basically boost a boosted engine. I'll run a front mount intercooler and an under-blower intercooler, too.
#52
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From: Hanoverpark/palatine IL, wrenchin' and cursin'
good score on that trans jeff...i wish i had your luck lately i've been looking for a decent 80E from a 98 aurora car for test fitment and the converter (midwest converter suggested i go this route as they gaurantee that they can convert it to Carbon fiber TTC material Jim also metioned something about a difference between the sprag setups but i havent seen a N* vs aurora converter cut apart (yet lol)
i wanted to ask the 3.71 fdr is the N* FDR on 00+ right? what is needed to get er closer to 4 to 1?
also recently while at the Jyard i took the range switch off a 96 80E (i was just screwing around) and it looks like with a spare selector shaft you could move it to alongside the shifter itself and get it out of the way of exhaust heat...
I also mocked up my buddy eric'* set of PS headers on one of my spare blocks and took some measurements from the belhousing face to the headers in several spots...
if you would like the pics/specs let me know and i'll email em to ya...it looks like it'd be close but PS headers may clear the shift linkage....which woul sure be nice when we end up throwing one in eric'* Riviera
keep it up buddy, i cant wait to see more...
i wanted to ask the 3.71 fdr is the N* FDR on 00+ right? what is needed to get er closer to 4 to 1?
also recently while at the Jyard i took the range switch off a 96 80E (i was just screwing around) and it looks like with a spare selector shaft you could move it to alongside the shifter itself and get it out of the way of exhaust heat...
I also mocked up my buddy eric'* set of PS headers on one of my spare blocks and took some measurements from the belhousing face to the headers in several spots...
if you would like the pics/specs let me know and i'll email em to ya...it looks like it'd be close but PS headers may clear the shift linkage....which woul sure be nice when we end up throwing one in eric'* Riviera
keep it up buddy, i cant wait to see more...
#53
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc
good score on that trans jeff...i wish i had your luck lately i've been looking for a decent 80E from a 98 aurora car for test fitment and the converter (midwest converter suggested i go this route as they gaurantee that they can convert it to Carbon fiber TTC material Jim also metioned something about a difference between the sprag setups but i havent seen a N* vs aurora converter cut apart (yet lol)
i wanted to ask the 3.71 fdr is the N* FDR on 00+ right? what is needed to get er closer to 4 to 1?
also recently while at the Jyard i took the range switch off a 96 80E (i was just screwing around) and it looks like with a spare selector shaft you could move it to alongside the shifter itself and get it out of the way of exhaust heat...
I also mocked up my buddy eric'* set of PS headers on one of my spare blocks and took some measurements from the belhousing face to the headers in several spots...
if you would like the pics/specs let me know and i'll email em to ya...it looks like it'd be close but PS headers may clear the shift linkage....which woul sure be nice when we end up throwing one in eric'* Riviera
keep it up buddy, i cant wait to see more...
i wanted to ask the 3.71 fdr is the N* FDR on 00+ right? what is needed to get er closer to 4 to 1?
also recently while at the Jyard i took the range switch off a 96 80E (i was just screwing around) and it looks like with a spare selector shaft you could move it to alongside the shifter itself and get it out of the way of exhaust heat...
I also mocked up my buddy eric'* set of PS headers on one of my spare blocks and took some measurements from the belhousing face to the headers in several spots...
if you would like the pics/specs let me know and i'll email em to ya...it looks like it'd be close but PS headers may clear the shift linkage....which woul sure be nice when we end up throwing one in eric'* Riviera
keep it up buddy, i cant wait to see more...
I am not using headers, but turbocharging, so I will have a custom crossover pipe I'll make anyway, to clear the shifter and switch. I am confused about the converters... Dacco says they pin the stock N* viscous clutch so it'* always locked on engagement. I would like a real clutch, too. Who have you talked to??? Midwest Converters? Contact info?
#54
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
Some engine build-up pics:
ported intake, LS6 springs:
ported blower:
prototype intercooler (not going in right now):
Harland Sharp rocker arms, LS6 springs, ARP head studs (GM graphite h.g.), Manley chromemoly pushrods:
custom rear Turbo manifold:
ported intake, LS6 springs:
ported blower:
prototype intercooler (not going in right now):
Harland Sharp rocker arms, LS6 springs, ARP head studs (GM graphite h.g.), Manley chromemoly pushrods:
custom rear Turbo manifold:
#57
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
Originally Posted by 1337ssei
wow thats sweet how much power are you expecting to make?
#58
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
Originally Posted by J Wikoff
So which way is the exhaust supposed to exit?
#59
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From: Atlanta, GA. USA
The transmission and engine are ONE!!!!
I had to: re-drill the flexplate, which required notching the counterweight and adding weight back; drill and tap the rear lower hole in the block to line up with the bellhousing; make a tailshaft support bracket; drill out a blank bellhousing hole (middle, on the front side of the engine); notch the rear lower block boss and grind a little off the bellhousing; relocate the rear knock sensor (don;t forget to plug the hole... it'* in the water jacket!); and the rear manifold will need more work... it hits the transmission. I think I'm going to build a new one using the stock flange, this way I can make it clear the shifter linkage and trans position switch, too.
Pics explain themselves.
LSD installed:
I had to: re-drill the flexplate, which required notching the counterweight and adding weight back; drill and tap the rear lower hole in the block to line up with the bellhousing; make a tailshaft support bracket; drill out a blank bellhousing hole (middle, on the front side of the engine); notch the rear lower block boss and grind a little off the bellhousing; relocate the rear knock sensor (don;t forget to plug the hole... it'* in the water jacket!); and the rear manifold will need more work... it hits the transmission. I think I'm going to build a new one using the stock flange, this way I can make it clear the shifter linkage and trans position switch, too.
Pics explain themselves.
LSD installed: