180* therms
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i read the article in techinfo that said the first thing you need to do when uprgrading is to replace the stock 195* thermostat with a 180* therm. What exactly does this accomplish?
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Good-ole Doc J pulles through for us:
Are you sure they're transmission lines and not oil? The setup on my '93 SSEI is coolant and oil are cooled in the radiator and the transmission has its own cooler. This won't matter anyway because the thermostat only controls when the COOLANT (only used on the engine) is let back into or out of the block. This whole thing is a cycle. Your coolant starts at your radiator and at a certain temp your t-stat opens up and lets that coolant in. In the meanwhile you have coolant that was in the block warming up to that temperature. As the t-stat opens cold coolant from the radiator comes out and the hot stuff goes in. Now that the block has cool fluid the t-stat closes again and the cycle repeats. Now if you don't give that coolant in the radiator enough time to cool down below the t-stats temperature your t-stat will just stay open and it will flow in a loop slowly warming itself up until your fans kick in and cool the whole thing down. Thats why your car still runs at normal temps when you sit still and runs cool when your moving. Your radiator doesn't cool it unless there is air blowing across it. No air and it gets hot and holds the t-stat open and now you've got a cycle that would overheat your car if not for your fans. Hope that clears a few things up
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yeah...but in a nut shell the thermostat opens up at approx 180 degrees instead of the stock 195
keeps things cooler. There has been so much (plethora..good one Brandon!!) discussion about it. Lots to read up on.
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Originally Posted by mremer
any negative results using a 160* instead?
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I have a scan tool now so I should be able to reset that SES light condition, if that is the only ADVERSE effect I am more inclinded to go with the 160*, if the 160* causes other problems I will stick with the 180*.
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Originally Posted by mremer
I have a scan tool now so I should be able to reset that SES light condition, if that is the only ADVERSE effect I am more inclinded to go with the 160*, if the 160* causes other problems I will stick with the 180*.
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I originally had a 160* installed and my SES light came on, the code was "engine too cold, Im confused, help its dark in here" or something to that effect. I pulled it out and put the 194.3* one instead; now that I have a scantool I have no problem "resetting" the puter if that is the only bad thing that is going to happen...
Will the ECU really try to compensate by running the engine hotter, or will it simply be confused (SES light) because it is not getting hot enough?
Will the ECU really try to compensate by running the engine hotter, or will it simply be confused (SES light) because it is not getting hot enough?