I replaced the multi-function (blinker) assembly in my 1994 Old Cutlass Supreme but when trying to put the snap ring back on the steering wheel lock plate couldn't get the plate depressed enough to expose the groove for the snap ring to go back in......after several attempts and probably applying too much pressure something gave in the steering column. I think I broke something -- the ball joint (tilt steering) that sits just behind the wheel lock plate now pulls out (towards the driver) about an inch or slightly more. I'm guessing there is a bushing or a bearing that gave way to allow this amount of travel in the steering column. I've tore down the steering column all the way to the four (4) T35 bolts and those aren't loose so not the classic fix for a loose tilt steering system. I'm hoping someone can tell me what I've broken and what it might take to fix.

Here'* the column exploded view. Was your horn button positioned correctly? You may have separated the upper and lower shafts.

Hello carfixer007 - Thank you very much for the quick response. Yes, the horn disk and button were positioned correctly behind the shaft lock plate. On my various attempts to re-install/depress the shaft lock plate I double / triple checked everything (taking everything out and putting back). If I have separate the upper shaft from the lower shaft I anticipated the steering wheel would spin freely. Even though the wheel is very floppy (fore and aft, as mentioned 1"+ out towards the driver) it does still have enough connection to turn the fronts wheels --and-- appears we don't have any extra play when rotating the steering wheel.

I recently did one in the Regal.

If memory serves right, if proper procedures were followed, and with the proper tools, it should be pretty obvious what broke.

I am truly baffled, and have no idea what could have happened. I do vaguely that I think I had the washers stacked wrong, or the lock plate backwards at one point.

I do want to confirm however, were you compressing the lock plate with the correct lock plate compressor tool? And was the key in the unlocked position when things were going back together?

Also, are you sure the steering wheel nut is properly tightened? The steering wheel is a bit of a press fit and usually requires some torque on the nut to press and lock back down.

And by looking at the diagram, if the joint failed, it would either free spin, or hang up on the parts of the joint. Either case would introduce apparent play, or, freespin.

Hello rjolly87

Thank you for your help on this topic. Lock Plate Tool #27044 was used both to originally remove the lock plate (diagram #7) (no issues) and then to re-install the lock plate (diagram #7) (issues). I didn't change the key / position of the key (assume this means ignition key) between the removal of the lock plate and the replacement of the lock plate. In my many attempts to re-install the lock plate (#7) I did confirm/re-confirm that the lock plate was not flipped upside down (it wasn't). Once I realized that I might have broken something I started looking online for reasons the steering shaft assembly (diagram #47) would have this much travel......I tore the steering column down to the four (4) E7 bolts (diagram #52) to see if they were loose (they are not). I found that the steering shaft (diagram #47) can be manually pulled towards the driver by a good 1"+. In other words the ball joint where the upper and lower shafts connect (shown in diagram #47) can be manually pulled and pushed straight in and out of the seat in the housing support (diagram #53). I haven't measured how far I can pull the ball joint toward me (away from the support housing) but I've estimated it is 1"+ that the shaft will travel. The ball joint itself (seen in diagram #47) is intact and solid (no play in the joint).

I figured there could be a couple of reasons that the steering shaft has this much travel

1) the steering shaft has a 'break-away' feature that would give in case of a crash and I managed to pull hard enough to cause this safety feature to partially give way. Maybe this is part of the lower shaft? I don't know but looks like the diagram (#51) shows that the lower shaft has a groove on the top portion that might slide into the lower half and a couple of holes (maybe pins) where those two halves meet?
2) there is a bushing or a bearing somewhere further down the steering shaft behind/past the back of the housing support (#53) that was meant to prevent the shaft from moving fore/aft that I've managed to break, maybe at bottom of the lower shaft (diagram #59-64)?
3) the lower shaft has a rag-joint or other connection at the bottom of the upper shaft (outside the diagram) that I've damaged or dislodged but not fully separated allowing the steering to remain connected to the tires?

I assume you did this with the key off, but in the unlocked position, correct? (requires key in ignition)

I don't think the key was turned to accessory, I recall that the wheel lock bolt (diagram #27) was not retracted. I can also say that the lock plate (#7) re-installation didn't strike the lock bolt (#27) since it was in one of the gaps on the lock plate (#7). Hope that helps.

Ideally, it would have been turned one click forward, to 'off'.

Yeah, I have no idea then :(

What is the centering ball doing?

The centering sphere (ball-joint) in diagram (#47) that connects the upper and lower shaft is intact and functions properly........no issue with the centering sphere itself.

Issue seems to be somewhere down the shaft assembly which is allowing the centering sphere to be pulled toward the driver and out of the housing support (#53) when I manually pull on the top of the upper shaft (#4 where the steering wheel would attach. I anticipate this amount of play in the shaft means I've managed to deform or break a component somewhere below / behind the housing support (#53).

I figured there could be a few reasons that the steering shaft (#47) has this much travel

1) the steering shaft has a 'break-away' feature that would give in case of a crash and I managed to pull hard enough to cause this safety feature to partially give way. Maybe this is part of the lower shaft? I don't know but looks like the diagram (#51) shows that the lower shaft has a groove on the top portion that might slide into the lower half and a couple of holes (maybe pins) where those two halves meet?
2) there is a bushing or a bearing somewhere further down the steering shaft behind/past the back of the housing support (#53) that was meant to prevent the shaft from moving fore/aft that I've managed to break, maybe at bottom of the lower shaft (diagram #59-64)?
3) the lower shaft has a rag-joint or other connection at the bottom of the upper shaft (outside the diagram) that I've damaged or dislodged but not fully separated allowing the steering to remain connected to the components in the engine compartment?