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97 olds 88 crank sensor replacement questoins

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Old 02-23-2014, 04:56 PM
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Any EFI GM car: when you have a Vacuum Leak you will have a HIGHER RPM. Carburated cars get a lower idle RPM with a leak.

Are you sure you don't have a bad MAF?
Old 02-23-2014, 05:03 PM
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No I need to test it. I leaned on it with the palm of my hand a year or so ago and accidentally cracked the black outer plastic. So I took some clear rtv silicone and rubbed over it to keep moisture out
Old 02-24-2014, 12:16 AM
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F*** me. The car stalled out in traffic tonight as I was coming up on a stop light after it got warmed up. I coasted a bit and put it in neutral to restart and on my way I went . Got it home and as soon as I put it in park the rpm bounced 500-1500 constantly for about 5 seconds and it stalls

Last edited by Soft Ride; 02-24-2014 at 03:45 AM. Reason: Modified "F"
Old 02-24-2014, 03:57 AM
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DId u replace the IAC with a delco part?
Attached Thumbnails 97 olds 88 crank sensor replacement questoins-iacinstalled.jpg   97 olds 88 crank sensor replacement questoins-iacscrubb.jpg  
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Last edited by Soft Ride; 02-24-2014 at 04:01 AM. Reason: Just realized u replaced the IAC
Old 02-24-2014, 07:11 AM
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maf would be suspect to me if you broke it. its hard to test without a live data scanner though. but it could be bypassed in open loop mode then after warming up it tries to use it and stalls. if you unplug it and it doesnt stall, all that really tells you is one of the sensors involved with closed loop is bad, because it will run in open with it unplugged
Old 02-24-2014, 08:41 AM
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See that'* where it gets confusing for me. Should I wait until it warms up and see what it does if I unplug it?
Old 02-24-2014, 12:23 PM
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no it will stall regardless if its working or not if you do that. you have to unplug it before you start it. but like i said doesnt really definitively prove anything. if its bad you could unplug any sensor that wont allow closed loop and the engine will run fine. only solid way to see if its working is to look at the live data signal from it on the scanner.
Old 02-24-2014, 01:30 PM
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Older GM service books had a test procedure. Newer books (OBD-II) require you to use a scanner, not a code checker, to do most diagnostics.
Old 02-25-2014, 10:59 PM
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think I fixed it for now guys. went a got a new MAF sensor with no luck, and after that frustration passed over, I spotted a brand new fuel filter hanging on my peg board in the garages, the one on the car had only been on for about a year but I figured what the heck , it sure wont hurt it. Thinking it wouldn't change any thing and doing it just for routine maintenance I swapped filters, the old one had black fuel come out. very dirty fuel.

fired it up and instantly it cured the issue. no more bouncing idle issues, no more dying at stop lights, like new again! thanks for all the help and ideas everyone provided me. It'* opened my eyes for future diagnosing and expanded my knowledge a little more on this car.

I'm big into mustangs and their forums, but this olds is my daily and has done me well! I'll be sure to come back here with any questions

Last edited by cschoening09; 02-25-2014 at 11:00 PM.
Old 02-26-2014, 07:26 AM
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You should drop that tank and flush it out. If you clogged that filter that quick in a just over a year, who knows what else is still in there.
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