im going finish changing my spark plugs/wires tomorrow. Someone told me that the back ones couldnt be reached but that does not appear to be the case but it is a little tight. I have to make sure car is cool though.

they are easier than many cars I've worked on! Take a cardboard box and put over the hood latch and lay down on that and the motor and reach behind and under the strut brace. That will save you tons of time! It'* a reach otherwise! At least for the short guy I am....LOL

Still no luck. I'm still getting 10mpg less than normal.

Have you tested your fuel injectors? I was talking with a mechanic friend of mine and he said that the fuel pressure wasn't the issue. If an injector was bad, then the computer would drop the cylinder. Also, check for spark at the coils. I have been finding that one of the towers on the middle coil pack ends up going. I replaced the coils and even a new one stopped working. I believe this is fuel injector related after talking with my friend. I'm going to change mine out on that cylinder today and see how much change I get. I bet it will get its power back, too!
I'll update afterwards....

Chris, to check your coils, simply take an insulated pair of pliers and pull off one spark plug wire at a time at the coil packs. Once you pull one off, the coil will start throwing spark between the end of the boot and the tower. replace it move to the next one. and so on, theryby isolating which cylinder isn't firing. then, trace that spark plug wire to the cylinder to identify and then check the fuel injector. There is an impedance test you can do by pulling the connector on the fuel injector and use an ohm meter to check it. I was told if it is below like 9 then it is bad and needs to be replaced. Maybe Justin can also talk to us about this if he still is getting updates off this thread?

Bad injector and vacuum leak on my engine. vacuum leak on my junction block where the brake booster hose comes to the motor. gasket underneath was bad. Tested rebuilt injectors and found one that was "jumpy". The injectors should go from 0 steadily up to 12.0-14.2 readings. If any are out of that range or they bounce around on your tester like up to 50 and then back down to 29 then back down to 12. Then it is suspect of being bad.
That'* where I am with mine so far.....runs much better now!!!
smooth idel and plenty of power. This in combination with your coil issue should get you back going again.....

Thanks I will definitely try the coils and injectors

Okay, so my car idles much better but upon hard acceleration, the car dies out on me. Happened when I left this afternoon twice. I've ordered a fuel pressure regulator from Rockauto and am going to see if this takes care of the surge. It was around $35 so before I rip the tank out to install a new fuel pump, I'm going to try and get lucky. Hopefully, that does the trick. It'* weird because iof I ease into the throttle, then it runs great but if I put my foot into it, then it stalls, which is probably the fuel pump not being able to keep up but I'll let you know.

new fuel pump and regulator....car dies upon hard acceleration. It seemed to run better at idle and I did find that the connection at the tank for the evap system was pretty sketchy. All new connections, sending unit and pump. Surprisingly though the pressure dropped from 39 at idle down to roughly 34. When it is reved up it goes up to about 44 or so. This is taking a reading with a brand new fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail.
I'm at a loss now. I'm wondering if the vacuum setting on my vacuum modulator is too tight or if the new TPS is adjusted incorrectly or if this could be a speed sensor as well????
Any thoughts out there? everything else has been replaced except cam sensor and crank sensor.