Who thinks Amsoil makes the best automotive products ever?
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I'm not sure what you guys define as cheap oil, but you can buy "motor oil" that smells like hamburgers and looks like vegtable oil. Yet its still motor oil.
Compare that cheap one with mobil one or similar and I would be pretty positive you would notice differences. Maybe not right away or significant, but there would have to be some.
Compare that cheap one with mobil one or similar and I would be pretty positive you would notice differences. Maybe not right away or significant, but there would have to be some.
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No problem John
I'm a dealer for AMSOIL now, on the side (just waiting on a few documents), and I wouldn't be pushing it or running it in my $23,000 Cummins Turbo Diesel powered Dodge if I didn't like it or trust it. I'm sure most people who know me on here know that. Next week the Trans Am is getting full AMSOIL also (oil, filter, trans, rear differential).
I love this stuff......It'* been good to me.
You'd change it once a year.....Or 25K under Normal Service conditions, which ever came first, IF you're using an AMSOIL Ea Oil Filter. Under severe conditions, as in racing, long idle times, lots of short trips, high HP motors, etc. your drain interval would be at 15K or 1 Year, whichever came first. If you're concerned about the life of the oil around your normal interval (I'm guessing 3-5K miles), get an oil analysis done...You can get postage paid kits for $20 through AMSOIL.
The cost of the product isn't bad....get into the Preffered Customer program, and get it for less. 15-20% actually. For my diesel (12 qts) I get 4 gallons (1 gal extra for tops off'* if needed) of SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil in 1 gallon containers for $19.80 each.....So for a full change in a diesel with filter using pure synthetic for around $100 and I can go 3 times as long on the oil/filter and spend the money once a year.......I'll stay with it.
You'd only pay $2 more for the 1 gallon containers of AMSOIL SAE 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil than a gallon of Mobil 1 at wally world with a Preffered Membership discount. Also, you'd only have to do it once a year ![Wink](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/wink.gif)
On the contrary.....Oil is the LIFE and BLOOD of your motor.....Take a look at this:
https://www.amsoil.com/performancete...971/index.aspx
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I'm a dealer for AMSOIL now, on the side (just waiting on a few documents), and I wouldn't be pushing it or running it in my $23,000 Cummins Turbo Diesel powered Dodge if I didn't like it or trust it. I'm sure most people who know me on here know that. Next week the Trans Am is getting full AMSOIL also (oil, filter, trans, rear differential).
![Smile](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I love this stuff......It'* been good to me.
What if you don't drive 25k a year, can I go 4 years between oil changes (25k would be 2 years on my wifes car) or is it yearly change or 25k whichever comes first?
The cost of the product isn't bad....get into the Preffered Customer program, and get it for less. 15-20% actually. For my diesel (12 qts) I get 4 gallons (1 gal extra for tops off'* if needed) of SAE 15W-40 Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine Motor Oil in 1 gallon containers for $19.80 each.....So for a full change in a diesel with filter using pure synthetic for around $100 and I can go 3 times as long on the oil/filter and spend the money once a year.......I'll stay with it.
My Mobil1 goes 5k/6 months just fine
$20 jug @ walmart + a filter and i'm set.
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It just goes to show that oil doesn't Mean crap for Normal cars like everyones on here but like 10 or so of use that Race them A Lot and that are making BIG HP'*.
https://www.amsoil.com/performancete...971/index.aspx
Seven tests were run on the motor oils. The Thin-Film Oxygen Uptake Test (TFOUT) measures the oxidation stability of engine oils. The High Temperature/High Shear Test (HTHS) measures a lubricant’* viscosity under severe operating conditions. The NOACK Volatility Test measures the evaporation loss of oils in high temperature service. Pour Point indicates the lowest temperature at which a fluid will flow. Total Base Number (TBN) is the measurement of a lubricant’* reserve alkalinity for combating acids. The Cold Cranking Simulator Test (CCS) indicates the degree to which a lubricant can impact cold weather starting. The impressive test results show AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-30 Motor Oil outperformed the competitors in nearly every test.
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Originally Posted by LakevilleSSEi
My Mobil1 goes 5k/6 months just fine
$20 jug @ walmart + a filter and i'm set.
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I guess I should go to the garage and see if my AMSOIL jug is 4 or 5 qts........Which sucks because I just came in from the garage and ready for bed lol.
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I understand now why Lake'* answer was a little "over the top" - As a dealer, he stands to profit from his opinion. While this doesn't make his opinion wrong, it does make a difference.
For most people, time proves all - at one point Dexcool was the greatest new technology.
For most people, time proves all - at one point Dexcool was the greatest new technology.
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Ya, I can see how I would look biased to be more on AMSOIL'* side just because I'm selling their product.....But it'* not what that is for me....I've been running this stuff for a while now.....My truck the 3rd vehicle....and it'* been great to me.
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Again, show me a single oil-related failure on a Bonneville from this Forum that wasn't caused by DEX or pure neglect.
And explain how we could justify the added expense of AMSOIL? If we don't have a problem, and our engines outlast 3 or 4 tranmsmissions, where'* the advantage? What'* the gain? Is it really tangible?
IMO, it'* not worth it. Maybe in some applications, but not ours.
And explain how we could justify the added expense of AMSOIL? If we don't have a problem, and our engines outlast 3 or 4 tranmsmissions, where'* the advantage? What'* the gain? Is it really tangible?
IMO, it'* not worth it. Maybe in some applications, but not ours.
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I'm not saying anywhere that if you don't run AMSOIL your engine will explode. I'm purely putting info about AMSOIL out for those who are interested, and also stating that I'm a dealer, and am willing to help out the BC community with getting AMSOIL products........If no one buys...It'* not the end of the world to me, I not out anything by becoming a dealer, even one that doesn't move any product. Besides, this is just oil.....There'* A LOT more products that AMSOIL sells.
Anyways, oil related failues can happen on any car, especially on supercharged or modified engines. If the extended drain intervals and oil quality alone justify the cost, then just knowing that you are running the best oil available is cheap insurance. That'* the problem with good oils, they protect your engine so things don't fail. People only gripe about spun bearings and other internal failures, but you never hear about it when the engine is running perfectly.
Will running a conventional oil and dumping it every 3k and going through all the extra labor involved with those frequent intervals protect your engine? Sure, and that'* been proven since we all can say that we haven't had an oil-related failure. They do happen, but they are rare if the vehicle is well cared for. But that'* missing the point. The point is that you can protect your engine better AND drastically cut your maintenance costs and labor by running a superior oil. The same goes for oil filters.
It was posted previously that "you still have to change your oil filter every 5k because that still gets dirty." Not true. If you buy a cheap cellulose filter, sure. But we're not talking about matching top quality oil with low grade filters here. The AMSOIL EaO Oil Filters utilize Nanofiber technology, developed by Donaldson Corporation. This same filtration technology is found in Class 8 OTR trucks, U.*. Military equipment, hospital HEPA filtration systems, and so on. This is a synthetic filter media that filters better and flows better than paper. It is also not sensitive to internal filter structure failure cause by moisture. Moisture does build up in your engine from condensation, and burns off when you engine is at full temp for a while, but this moisture can have negative impacts on a paper based cellulose filter. So, due to the poor flow characteristics of paper filter media, and the moisture sensitivity of paper, changing your oil filter at 5k is justified with a low grade filter. But, match a high quality synthetic oil with a high grade synthetic media filter, and 1 year or 25k is certainly attainable.
Anyways, oil related failues can happen on any car, especially on supercharged or modified engines. If the extended drain intervals and oil quality alone justify the cost, then just knowing that you are running the best oil available is cheap insurance. That'* the problem with good oils, they protect your engine so things don't fail. People only gripe about spun bearings and other internal failures, but you never hear about it when the engine is running perfectly.
Will running a conventional oil and dumping it every 3k and going through all the extra labor involved with those frequent intervals protect your engine? Sure, and that'* been proven since we all can say that we haven't had an oil-related failure. They do happen, but they are rare if the vehicle is well cared for. But that'* missing the point. The point is that you can protect your engine better AND drastically cut your maintenance costs and labor by running a superior oil. The same goes for oil filters.
It was posted previously that "you still have to change your oil filter every 5k because that still gets dirty." Not true. If you buy a cheap cellulose filter, sure. But we're not talking about matching top quality oil with low grade filters here. The AMSOIL EaO Oil Filters utilize Nanofiber technology, developed by Donaldson Corporation. This same filtration technology is found in Class 8 OTR trucks, U.*. Military equipment, hospital HEPA filtration systems, and so on. This is a synthetic filter media that filters better and flows better than paper. It is also not sensitive to internal filter structure failure cause by moisture. Moisture does build up in your engine from condensation, and burns off when you engine is at full temp for a while, but this moisture can have negative impacts on a paper based cellulose filter. So, due to the poor flow characteristics of paper filter media, and the moisture sensitivity of paper, changing your oil filter at 5k is justified with a low grade filter. But, match a high quality synthetic oil with a high grade synthetic media filter, and 1 year or 25k is certainly attainable.
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I kinda think that oil related failures don't really happen on BC because we're in a club about our car...inherently, we care a bit more about it than others. My parents arent in a club about their Jag/Audi, and my bro about his Sonoma.
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