What's a late 80s Dodge Raider worth?
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What'* a late 80s Dodge Raider worth?
I don't want just a numerical value. Rather, I'd like to know of your guys' experiences with Raiders from the late 80s and estimates on what owning one would be like. How easy to get are the parts? Are these cars dependable? I've come across about three late 80s Raiders, all 6-cyl, two manual and one with an automatic transmission. They're selling for around $500 each.
I'd only like to buy one if one at all, so which do I get? There'* an 87 manual, 88 manual, and 89 auto.
I'd only like to buy one if one at all, so which do I get? There'* an 87 manual, 88 manual, and 89 auto.
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Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
That is some good news! Or is it? Is the Montero/Raider good?
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Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
That'* not too bad at all. I'm just looking to replace the Aerostar. Does the Raider have a solid rear axle?
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The 3.0 liter is a very common motor....you can even find them in Chrysler FWD cars (yes, it is the same motor). Valve stem seals are a common failure on them, as are timing belts. The good news is that motor is a non-interference design, so if you snap the belt, no harm is done...though setting the timing is bitch.
Our motors hate platinum plugs. These motors LOVE them.
Overall, they are pretty reliable. So long as the upkeep was done on them, you should be ok.
Our motors hate platinum plugs. These motors LOVE them.
Overall, they are pretty reliable. So long as the upkeep was done on them, you should be ok.
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The 80s Montero'* are pretty popular off-roaders. Good motor with plenty of torque, a strong and reliable tranny, and whle they may be a little short in the wheelbase, they have a good wide track and good ground clearance. There'* a ton of parts out there suspension-wise, but unfortunately not much for the motor.
The stem seals are dead easy, you can do them with the heads still on. With the cars it'* more difficult, the rear bank is kinda close to the firewall.
And timing is dead simple too. Simply set #1 piston at TDC, then line the distributor rotor up with the #1 contact. What throws people is that the cap is a crossfire design. Setting the PRECISE timing is a little harder, but all you need is a induction timing gun and a box-end wrench. Turn the dissy to get the timing marks synchronized....easy.
Now as Pinky can tell you, it helps a bunch if the darn timing indicator has been machined onto the block!
The stem seals are dead easy, you can do them with the heads still on. With the cars it'* more difficult, the rear bank is kinda close to the firewall.
And timing is dead simple too. Simply set #1 piston at TDC, then line the distributor rotor up with the #1 contact. What throws people is that the cap is a crossfire design. Setting the PRECISE timing is a little harder, but all you need is a induction timing gun and a box-end wrench. Turn the dissy to get the timing marks synchronized....easy.
Now as Pinky can tell you, it helps a bunch if the darn timing indicator has been machined onto the block!
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Thanks! It'* good to read that the transmissions are good. I have heard some terrible things about these engines and transmissions, but if these are used for offroading, one should do fine if driven as a car. This is one of the cars I'm considering to replace the Aerostar that we have. Sure, one might say that anything, even a tricycle, could replace the Aerostar, but... We need a spacious daily driver that can haul the entire medicinal supply, if necessary, of a vaccination clinic.