Well I just bought another car because my 1991 pontiac 6000 station wagon was a gas guzzler and ran like junk and was up to 181k. I'm going to sell my 1991 pontiac but today I bought a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass supreme SL FE3 suspension package for $80 it has 142k on the odo. The car needs a fuel pressure regulator and a EGR valve so it kinda runs like junk at idle and wont pass emissions. The car has a 2.8L automatic the transmission was replaced somewheres inbetween 1-89k miles. But this car has the sports suspension package FE3 and this thing really rips around turns and has power that pulls nicely. All of the brakes need to be replaced there is a grindin noise commin from the front and rear when brakes are applyed. The car had a new catalatic converter along with a new muffler in 2004 and was sitting since 2003 (the last the plates were registered) I put alittle over a 1/2 tank and added a bottle of gas treatment. So I need to replace the fuel pressure regulator the EGR valve and all the brakes. Did I get a good deal for $80? Also when I bought it after driving it the tranny started to feel weird so I looked at the fluid and it took 3 qts just to bring it to the safe level now it feels good. He said like 2 years ago he spent $650 for the A/C compressor to get replaced so the A/C works! The paint is chipping but there is virtually no rust on this car because it was in Florida the first 90k miles of its life. Some minor dents. It has Power windows power seat power mirrors all digital gauges oil tach speedo (its really neat) digital climate control. Alloy wheels with ok tread on it. It squeaks alittle over bumps (mabey cause it was sitting since 2003?). I truely love my new purchase cause I belive with alittle bit of money it will be an amazing car and very reliable. It dies out at stop signs sometimes cause of the fuel pressure regulator. What do you think of my purchase?

For $80, even a YUGO is a good deal! Well....ok....maybe not a YUGO, but you got a decent car there. Even if it costs $1K to get every single thing on it running tip top again, $1,080 for a smooth running car is a bargain. But before you go throwing money at it, I'd have the FPR checked first. It could be that he just told you it'* the FPR to make the problem seem simple, or get questions of why it'* running rough out of his hair. Also, while the upper plenum is off to do the FPR (if indeed it'* bad), I'd have the injectors yanked off, and cleaned/balance flow tested. Those FI treatments in a bottle really don't do jack, quite frankly, except collect the deposites, and sometimes clogg up your injectors, making things worse!

Rotors and pads are cheap enough. I'd just make sure the rears calipers aren't locked up. '88 - '93 W bodys are NOTORIOUS for this. In fact, GM settled a class action lawsuit for them a few years back to the tune of $19.5 million! Unfortunately, it wasn't an all out recall. Just reimbursement for past repairs through a certain deadline (which has LONG passed). Upgrading to the '94-'96 style w-body brakes is a pretty easy mod, and a LOT more reliable (completely different design rear calipers).

Other then that, it'* solve one problem at a time as they come. Congratulations on your purchase! Good luck with it.

Well I pulled the vacum line that ran from the FPR and it was leaking gas into the throttle body. I went to the junk yard picked up a FPR for $10 and bought all new upper intake manifold gaskets and a EGR valve gasket for like $9 total. So far $99 boom great running like a charm perfect idle no hesitation cleaned egr valve out also. I bought new rotars all the way around and brake pads. Cost like $98 with some hose I needed and 2 caliper removal tools that are to small for the fronts. I found out the rear pads are still good but there is still rust on the rotars even after 100 miles of driving but they still grab when the wheel is spun and I hit the brakes. The fronts definately need to be replaced I have to sit and w8t cause the caliper removal tool is not a T50 nor T40 or T45 which I thought it would be one of those (dealing with older gms in the past) but its way bigger than that I dunno how big tho and autozone cant tell me the size :( so I have to guess. So it took me $197 for a good running 89 cutlass supreme SL FE3 2.8 auto loaded /w 143k miles. The 1st time I fixed the FPR I put it on and it was alittle cockeyed and I messed up one of the o-rings in the FPR which I took another one off the old one and put it in there now its all good. I just noticed there IS a transmission leak which it seems to be comming from the tranny pan. Not amazinly bad but noticable.

As I said in your other post, the caliper bolt (same for all 88-96 W-bodies) is a Torx T-60

Good luck with the car. I miss my W sometimes.

Thanks. BTW this car really rips around corners like unbeliveable on the back it says FE3 on the trunk lid on the oposite side it says Oldsmobile and the FE3 is the suspension package. The freaking stabalizer bar in the front is freaking huge its like 1+ inchs thick and the rear stabalizer bar isn't as big but this car has like zero body roll its sick. Alittle rough over bumps because of the tight suspension but I like it alot. I am going to get a bottle of transeal for the tranny leak that seems to be comming from the tranny pan.

Yep. It should be a 34mm sway bar. I had FE1 on my 'Prix. God that SUCKED.

Why does a FE1 suck and whats the difference from a FE1 and a FE3?

FE1 is the "granny" suspension. Tiny swaybar front and back, spring rates that would make you jealous of a Geo Storm, and a sagging rear monoleaf that just wouldn't quit. Ugh..

lol sounds like my old 1987 pontiac 6000-le and my 1987 cutlass ciera * o yea and my 1991 pontiac 6000-le station wagon that doesn't even have independent suspension in the back and around turns everything sags hard and everything on the dash slides to the other side and falls off lol

BTW.... ne1 know what this car would pull on a skidpad?

I belive this is a rare car from what I know I never seen a 89 cutlass supreme SL with FE3 and does ne1 know what I could get for this car in good running cond. and a paint job (not rust just fading a bit it was a Florida car the 1st 90k miles)? Also had the transmission rebuilt somewheres inbetween 1-90k miles...