Go buy a long hose for your gauge. If not, You can still run a load test by power braking.

great idea! thanks. I'll let you know how it goes.

put new throttle body in and it didn't fix the problem.
I bought a fuel pressure extension hose and it had the wrong fitting on it so I couldn't use it. So then I found a whole kit with adapters etc and bought it but none of the adapters worked. I made my own ext. hose but it kept leaking, so no go. anyway, it'* been getting much worse. rechecked the pressure and it was only 45psi when idling. the good news is it'* under warranty! I found my receipt and I bought it in June, the warranty is 12 months. I thought it was only 30 days, but that'* just for returns. So they're sending me a new one. should take care of the problem.
I will keep you posted.
Oh, I almost forgot. I am pretty sure I have a bad bearing or something in my front differential. It started making a grinding noise that matches my speed. Checked the caliper and hub and both are ok. I'll make a new post for it when I get to it. junkyard time!

Thanks for the update!

Hey Guys, I finally got around to putting in my fuel pump. Still have the same problem. Engine dies at stop light.
But things have changed. It hasn't been as bad dying for the last couple of months. It still dies but not as often. however, it'* doing something new. When I make a sharp turn going kinda fast it dies. I went to a parking lot and went around in a tight circle and it started to die. It was chugging. and right when I thought it was going to die I tapped the gas and it was fine. rpm'* came back up.
All through this it has acted as if I had a bad vacuum leak that would cause the engine to die at idle. but I couldn't find any.
Before, the engine would just shut off. Now it starts to shudder and I also see the tach jumping up and down. then it dies.
I just changed the pump today. So tomorrow I'm gonna put my scan tool on it and see what it'* doing. I may
also change the fuel filter, easy to get to and cheap.
one last thing I'm curious about, why would my short term fuel trims go from +10 to -20 when revving the engine?

I'm wondering if something is causing it to run rich and the LTFT goes down because of that.

Under load the injectors are over fueling driving negative trims. This is short lived and returns to normal trims under normal cruise.If it didn't do it you wouldn't have much acceleration.

I'll let you know what I find tomorrow with scan tool as far as long and short term fuel trims and fuel pressure under load.

dying engine is getting worse. Now it is doing it while I'm driving, but only when I make a low speed sharp turn. Like when I'm pulling into my driveway.
It'* also dying more often at stop lights. and when the engine is cold.
I haven't had time to check fuel pressure.
But with it dying so much now I don't want to drive it.
Want to do a load test on it like Carfixer suggested.
Put my scan tool on it and got these codes.
U1064 Lost Communication with Body Control Module.
U1026 Loss of Class 2 Communication with ATC.
P0440 Evaporative Emission System EVAP.
It set these codes last summer or fall and I ignored them and they went away quickly.
With them back and all the trouble I've had with this truck, I'm going to start troubleshooting my wiring.
I'm going to get my test light and multimeter out and check voltages and grounds on my splice packs and BCM.
but first I'll check fuel press under load and change my fuel filter.
Just wanted to let you all know. Thanks.

Looking forward to your results!

. . . especially fuel pressure!