If you're not beating it all the time (in the past and in the future) then I say it will easily get to 300,000 and will probably see 400,000 miles without much fuss. I'd worry ab out the transmission more than I'd worry about the engine.

Regular oil changes and coolant changes should be enough. My preference is oil every 3,000 miles, especially when the mileage gets this high, and coolant every 50,000 miles, especially when the mileage gets high.

No don't do it.

No don't do it. Buy decent gas instead.

No don't do it. Keep a good clean non-reusable air filter in it instead.

OMG no don't do it. Regular oil and filter changes with quality oil will be fine.

No. No reason to do this unless you have a reason to do this. Leave it on until 500,000 miles. When it gets to 500,000 miles, leave it on some more. When you get to an ocean, turn around and keep going. When you get to another ocean, turn around and keep going. Wait, got caught up thinking like a Tom Hanks character . . . but I agree with myself on that. Oil doesn't sludge up everywhere any more if there'* some maintenance and good materials being used.

All have risk and none are recommended unless you see them in the manual, and the oxygen sensors are the least of your worries. Don't do it.

Good idea, do it.

Good idea, do it.

Thanks for your advise. I'll follow it. I appreciate you helping me discard few of the Internet recommendations I've read. But, I have a question about your recommendation "Buy decent gas" please clarify do you mean I should avoid certain "cheap" brands. or I should buy mid grade or premium? if you mean avoid certain brands can you clarify which brands I avoid and which brands to buy? I do normally use Gas Buddy to find the cheapest price gas when traveling.

When my truck was new I tried using premium gas and after just 1 or 2 tanks of using premium the truck developed a ticking sound when cold cranked. The dealership said running premium gasoline caused carbon build up and my truck was designed to run 87 octane gas. I think they said they put something in the cylinders to remove the carbon build up. The ticking noise went away..... for a little while but, it came later even after using regular gas. My friend had the same engine and noise in his 1999 Silverado. He bugged his dealership so much about the noise they put a new engine in his truck at 30K miles..... but later the new engine developed the same noise.

Regarding your comment. "... keep a good clean non-reusable air-filter in it" So, you recommend I discard my K&N resuable Air filter. I know a lot of folks like you providing support on this forum have a ton of experience in many various driving conditions or racing. So, I really appreciate your recommendations and advise. So, by asking the following question please don't take it the wrong way because I really do respect your experience based opinions. I'm just trying to understand more on what history or data is behind you recommending paper vs reusable filters. So, I hope I'm not offending you by asking this question because that is not my intention. Is there any study or data online comparing paper filters to reusable air filters that you can point me to that shows paper filters are better to use? Or is your recommendation based on you or your associates having experience in dusty racing conditions and finding paper filters are much better.
I'm pretty PO'd at myself for using a reusable air filter for many years and now finding out paper filters are better. For paper Air filters can you recommend a couple of brands of paper filter you recommend above others or any brands you would not use? Some utube some oil filters teardown reviews have shown some brands of oil filters are better than others. I'm assuming some brands of Air filters are also better than others and would like to know what brands you recommend.

Avoid cheap brands. Opinions vary, but the bigger names are generally better: Shell, Conoco, Chevron, etc. Higher octane doesn't have anything to do with quality.

Yes. I'll probably get some flak for this, so boilerplate: opinions vary, professional driver on a closed course, results may vary. What little gain you might get from it is all lost and then some if they're not maintained perfectly. Often, even with great maintenance, they'll still coat everything in the intake tract with crud. I've personally seen many instances of this . . . and for what, four more horsepower at wide-open throttle? Meanwhile, replacing an AC/Fram/Purolater/etc. filter every once in a while will keep it clean and running fine.

No worries.

Most of it covered above . . . but here'* an example that comes to mind: My 2001 Yukon 5.3 came to me with a K&N on it, and an intake tract full of black goo. I never got it all out, even filling the weird-shaped plastic part with a bunch of choke cleaner ten times and shaking it all around left a bunch in there. Blue paper towel after blue paper towel came out black and gooey.When I took the upper intake off to replace gaskets, inside all of the ports in the intake and the heads were all gooey too. It started life as an airport car so I'm betting they didn't install anything aftermarket for the first 157,000 miles, then had two owners between then and 184,000 miles when I bought it. In all of the other cars I've owned I've never seen anything remotely like it. It'* got 311,000 miles on it now and still runs fine. I've seen a bunch of others do the same thing . . . and still others that dry out quickly and let the intake fill with dust. In the meantime, I haven't ever retired a car with less that 200,000 miles on it and never had a dirty intake, and I always use normal filters. I've never missed that extra 4HP.

There are zillions of comparisons out there, and they go all different directions. Thank you Internet. The most credible ones I've found compare filter performance clean and dirty. With real measurements, AC usually comes out on top of these when dirty, and has a slight bit more resistance when squeaky clean.

So here'* the fun thing: Racing is a different world that what we are discussing. In racing, the engines are run hard for short distances, then rebuilt often. Cleaned along the way. That extra 4HP I keep bringing up turns into 5 or maybe 6 because of other modifications. Every last one counts.

I wouldn't be. There'* a lot of hype about them, especially K&N. Now, for fun, look at the data they present. Even on their web site, lots of speculation: "Designed to increase horsepower" (did they succeed?) and "Designed to provide high airflow and exceptional filtration" ("exceptional" is an opinion, not a comparison or a measurement). Looking at the page for your truck ( https://www.knfilters.com/chevrolet/...l-v8-gas/2000/ ), the filter that goes in the stock airbox doesn't make a claim about increased power, . . . or increased filtration. In the meantime, what do you lose? Going further down, the most they get out of a cone filter with an entire intake kit is 9.12HP at 5,352RPM. How much time do you spend at 5,400RPM? But look closer at the chart, how much do you gain at say 3,000RPM? 1HP? Unless you're towing or climbing large hills, you're spending most of your time around 2,000 anyways.

I've used Fram and Wix (who makes them for Napa) for years and I like them. I used to swear by AC, but with their oil filter drama I don't know if I trust them any more. Air filters are easier than oil filters, but still.

Yep Fram and Wix (who makes them for Napa). I've seen some Purolator in use and they look okay, never put one in anything myself, but that'* not because I have anything against them.

Use as directed, not for resale, ages 14 and up, void where prohibited, yada yada yada.

LOL and for fun, the dyno chart at http://kandn.com/dynocharts/57-3021_dyno.pdf shows the "stock" configuration as "Stock as delievered" . . . so what filter does it have "as delievered"? Is it clean or dirty? This isn't documented.

. . . and yes, "delievered" is misspelled. I'm quoting them. Now this chart is old enough to vote and it hasn't been corrected.

I attached it here for future reference.

OE'* recommend "Top Tier Fuels" as previously mentioned. As for the use of A/M induction systems,I have found no advantages on a stock production unit. Only found dirt getting in to the engine. They claim they flow more air. Well so does a screen door. I have seen MAF issues,SES light concerns, Turbo issues,and more on engines with reusable filter systems. An engine will use only so much air.Example: A Duramax will flow about 450 g of air WOT at the !-2 shift. If you put a filter system that flows 10k grams and the O/E filter flows say 500 grams,What is the gain?I have seen warranties dropped and claims denied from the use of these products. Type in ISO 5011 Duramax air filter test Report. This document has some good info. I'm sure that there are many that would not agree with my opinion and don't mean to offend any one. I base my views on what I have seen. Stay Well everyone