2005 Yukon XL no start no crank
#1
2005 Yukon XL no start no crank
i have a no start no crank problem on my 2005 GMC Yukon XL 5.3. I have no power to the crank fuse. I replaced the ignition switch twice and now have replaced the neutral safety switch to no avail. The starter relay will click with 12v to the crank fuse but no crank. Could this be a failed PCM? What am I missing? I did jump across the starter to crank it to move it and it did start. Help please.
#2
Did you check the IGN A 40a fuse?
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
Last edited by Tech II; 05-30-2018 at 09:18 PM.
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CathedralCub (06-05-2018)
#3
I found the ign A blown! I had one so o replaced it and it blew it. What can cause the fuse to blow??
thank you for your help!!
thank you for your help!!
Did you check the IGN A 40a fuse?
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
#4
I will get another fuse or two and disconnect the starter and see if it blows then. That should tell us if there is a short in that wire. Correct? Any other suggestions?
Thanks again,
Philup46
Thanks again,
Philup46
Did you check the IGN A 40a fuse?
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
Well, BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch, did you check for power in at term F? Then with key in crank position you should have checked for power out at term D..... With no power to the crank fuse , you know the vehicle will not crank.....
You put power to the crank fuse, and the relay clicked....that means there is nothing wrong with the PCM, because the PCM grounded the starter relay(you say it clicked), which it should do with power to the crank fuse....
If the relay clicked, but you had no crank, then did you try swapping the starter relay with another relay? Did you check for power to the relay? With the key in the on position, and relay removed, take a grounded test light and probe all 4 contacts in the fuse block.....two should light the light.....if you only have one lit, check the IGN E 10a fuse and the IGN A 40a fuse(this fuse powers the starter though the relay and also powers the crank fuse)......
If both fuses are ok, and you tried another relay, then you have an open between the fuse block(output of relay) and the "*" term of the starter(purple wire)... sometimes it'* the contact in the underhood fuse block....make sure the retaining bolts which pull the harness blocks upward, are tight....they are usually sliver torx bolts.....
#5
Does it blow as soon as you put it in, or only with the key in the crank position? You will need several fuses to run these tests...
As I said, that 40A fuse feeds two circuits......
one goes through the ign switch to the crank fuse to the PCM.....
the other circuit goes to the starter relay and then to the starter....
What I would do is remove the relay .....turn the key to the crank position and see if the fuse blows.....If it doesn't, that makes it easier to diagnose....this means the circuit to the PCM is ok, and the circuit to the relay is ok.....
Try replacing the relay with another one from the fuse box......turn key to crank and see if it blows......if it doesn't it'* the relay....
If it does, it'* either the circuit from the relay to the starter or the starter....you can disconnect the purple wire from the starter, cover the end with tape and turn key to the crank position......if the fuse still blows, that purple wire is grounded somewhere or you have a problem with the fuse block....if it doesn't blow it'* the starter solenoid....
However, if you removed the relay, and the fuse still blew, it gets a little hairy to diagnose...it'* either the fuse block or the wire coming out of the fuse block to the ignition switch.
As I said, that 40A fuse feeds two circuits......
one goes through the ign switch to the crank fuse to the PCM.....
the other circuit goes to the starter relay and then to the starter....
What I would do is remove the relay .....turn the key to the crank position and see if the fuse blows.....If it doesn't, that makes it easier to diagnose....this means the circuit to the PCM is ok, and the circuit to the relay is ok.....
Try replacing the relay with another one from the fuse box......turn key to crank and see if it blows......if it doesn't it'* the relay....
If it does, it'* either the circuit from the relay to the starter or the starter....you can disconnect the purple wire from the starter, cover the end with tape and turn key to the crank position......if the fuse still blows, that purple wire is grounded somewhere or you have a problem with the fuse block....if it doesn't blow it'* the starter solenoid....
However, if you removed the relay, and the fuse still blew, it gets a little hairy to diagnose...it'* either the fuse block or the wire coming out of the fuse block to the ignition switch.
#6
I had a shorted wire near the power steering pump.
i have a no start no crank problem on my 2005 GMC Yukon XL 5.3. I have no power to the crank fuse. I replaced the ignition switch twice and now have replaced the neutral safety switch to no avail. The starter relay will click with 12v to the crank fuse but no crank. Could this be a failed PCM? What am I missing? I did jump across the starter to crank it to move it and it did start. Help please.
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