X and his new Regal
#11
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https://www.gmforum.com/showthread.p...48#post1509748
Brought over, was pretty sure I had all this here, but couldn't find it.
Puddles are easy
Brakes require either a sleeve or drilling and tapping the brackets for the right bolt from knuckle to caliper bracket. Either are easy.
I might have gone overboard.
Brought over, was pretty sure I had all this here, but couldn't find it.
Puddles are easy
Brakes require either a sleeve or drilling and tapping the brackets for the right bolt from knuckle to caliper bracket. Either are easy.
I might have gone overboard.
I imagine we then use F-body rotors too and everything bolts right in?
#12
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I'd recommend drilling and tapping personally. But the sleeve is a simple sleeve you find at a tractor supply or hardward store that takes up the slack in the knuckle where the bolt passes through to bolt to the caliper bracket. That'* what is done when the stock M12 F body bolts are used. I used the stock M14 W body bolts.
Then I didn't just go with F body rotors/pads. I got the R1concepts stuff that Dan likes. Ebay etc was more than going direct. I got the scorched pads for no break in and a little overkill on the drilled slotted rotors. I hear that the rotors start as Centric blanks. Overall..I dunno what they do, because on the outside fins etc..there'* no rust and I'm DD'ing this through snow, salt and everything else.
Then I didn't just go with F body rotors/pads. I got the R1concepts stuff that Dan likes. Ebay etc was more than going direct. I got the scorched pads for no break in and a little overkill on the drilled slotted rotors. I hear that the rotors start as Centric blanks. Overall..I dunno what they do, because on the outside fins etc..there'* no rust and I'm DD'ing this through snow, salt and everything else.
#13
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I'd recommend drilling and tapping personally. But the sleeve is a simple sleeve you find at a tractor supply or hardward store that takes up the slack in the knuckle where the bolt passes through to bolt to the caliper bracket. That'* what is done when the stock M12 F body bolts are used. I used the stock M14 W body bolts.
Then I didn't just go with F body rotors/pads. I got the R1concepts stuff that Dan likes. Ebay etc was more than going direct. I got the scorched pads for no break in and a little overkill on the drilled slotted rotors. I hear that the rotors start as Centric blanks. Overall..I dunno what they do, because on the outside fins etc..there'* no rust and I'm DD'ing this through snow, salt and everything else.
Then I didn't just go with F body rotors/pads. I got the R1concepts stuff that Dan likes. Ebay etc was more than going direct. I got the scorched pads for no break in and a little overkill on the drilled slotted rotors. I hear that the rotors start as Centric blanks. Overall..I dunno what they do, because on the outside fins etc..there'* no rust and I'm DD'ing this through snow, salt and everything else.
So I'll need the calipers, rotors, and brackets, and the brackets will need to be drilled and tapped to fit an M14 w-body bolt?
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#17
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98-02 ... I did a car-part search, looked at the southern states and started making calls asking for brackets and bolts too. $60 delivered
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You can use monte/impala ss rotors and brackets without doing any mods I believe. Now that my car is home and im broke as hell because of it the brakes are next.
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Alright, now to sound system. My wife noticed a "vibration" in the rear when she turned the volume up. I had a listen, and the rear 6x9 bass drivers were completely shot. I ended up taking the rear deck pad off and discovered a few things. First, the rear 6x9'* were indeed garbage and foam surrounds had separated completely, and second, we have the Monsoon sound system.
I replaced the 6x9'* with a spare set of Sony Xplod 6x9'* I pulled from the Bonneville a while back. Turns out they produce a very nice amount of bass. Louder than my old Kenwood 10" sub in fact, so that will do for a while.
My concern now is with the Monsoon amp bolted underneath the rear deck. When we replace the head unit (since the CD player is garbage and skips all the time, and the tape deck doesn't even work), will we be able to use the Monsoon amp? This would be preferable as it seems to be a decent amp and the system in its current state gets plenty loud. If we can't keep the amp, I have a feeling we'll need to start from scratch, remove all of the speakers, the amp, head unit, and run new speaker wiring on a respectable 5 channel amp. Any thoughts on this?
I replaced the 6x9'* with a spare set of Sony Xplod 6x9'* I pulled from the Bonneville a while back. Turns out they produce a very nice amount of bass. Louder than my old Kenwood 10" sub in fact, so that will do for a while.
My concern now is with the Monsoon amp bolted underneath the rear deck. When we replace the head unit (since the CD player is garbage and skips all the time, and the tape deck doesn't even work), will we be able to use the Monsoon amp? This would be preferable as it seems to be a decent amp and the system in its current state gets plenty loud. If we can't keep the amp, I have a feeling we'll need to start from scratch, remove all of the speakers, the amp, head unit, and run new speaker wiring on a respectable 5 channel amp. Any thoughts on this?
#20
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Uhh forgive me if i am wayyyyyy wrong or totally off on your question Andrei but to use the stock amp you just splice the power wire to a switched source in you cd players harness(power antenna) or such