Thinking of trading!! HELP ME~ before its too late
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I don't race or drag so I would be gentle on the car, but with 152K if I take care of it and baby it how long will it last me to? I just need the car to last 2 years or so until I can get a better job and get back on my feet. I only drive about 6K a year on my cars. I just worry that all the things that will go wrong with a 152K car will start to go out on this one when I get it. What should I look for on my test drive tomorrow any tell signs I need to look for to see if it is going to have problems?
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#12
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Check the oil. Make sure there is no coolant in there. My worry is the LIM gaskets. If everything checks out, I say do it. My wife has a 96 Mustang GT with 3.73'*, O/R X-pipe and an intake with a ported intake elbow. My SSEi will run circles around it.
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That because it'* got the 4.6 and not the 5.0. Also, worst year of the 4.6. That thing is horrible.
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That'* a Fox Body GT, the weight holds it down. 95 GT was the best year of the GT because it had a bad *** 5.0 in it. They can handle around 500hp on the stock block, and I've ridden in one that'* pushing that.
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My father in law has a 95 GT 5.0 he'* pushing around 350, maybe a little better. I'm not stopping till the Pearl can take him. By next christmas he'* goin down
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If he stays with a stock block, you can beat him until he switches to a DART or equivalent, then your screwed.
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Well I drove almost 60 miles to go look at that bonneville. Here are the things I noticed wrong with it: Tell me if any of these would be a deal breaker:
Medium Size crack in the front windshield going horizontally about 6 inches long.
Gas meter doesnt show the correct amount of gas in the car it moves from full to about 1/4 and back to full when you stop so it is inaccurate. The drivers info center shows 150 miles left then down to 52 miles so it is accurate as far as the meter is showing.
Heater on drivers seat does not stay lit, goes on then off so I assume it is broke.
Radio display half of it is showing up half of it is dark, I assume needs new bulbs.
The remote keyfob does not work to unlock the car. The key is all that works.
The rest of the car is pretty clean. The leather looks in good shape. The steering wheel does not shake when accelerating and at high speeds. The oil looks pretty good, no coolant in it I don't think. It has a few scratches and dings on the outside which is expected for a 6 year old car.
So what do you all think it was a long drive to look at it and the dealer I been speaking to was not there he said he would meet me half way next time I came to look at it.
The air seems cold and the heater is kinda weak, but does seem to be warm.
Let me know what I should do.
Thanks,
Medium Size crack in the front windshield going horizontally about 6 inches long.
Gas meter doesnt show the correct amount of gas in the car it moves from full to about 1/4 and back to full when you stop so it is inaccurate. The drivers info center shows 150 miles left then down to 52 miles so it is accurate as far as the meter is showing.
Heater on drivers seat does not stay lit, goes on then off so I assume it is broke.
Radio display half of it is showing up half of it is dark, I assume needs new bulbs.
The remote keyfob does not work to unlock the car. The key is all that works.
The rest of the car is pretty clean. The leather looks in good shape. The steering wheel does not shake when accelerating and at high speeds. The oil looks pretty good, no coolant in it I don't think. It has a few scratches and dings on the outside which is expected for a 6 year old car.
So what do you all think it was a long drive to look at it and the dealer I been speaking to was not there he said he would meet me half way next time I came to look at it.
The air seems cold and the heater is kinda weak, but does seem to be warm.
Let me know what I should do.
Thanks,
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ok the crack could be bad you wont pass inspection if your state requires it
gas gauge is broke cause of the floater we have a write up to fix that also the DIC fuel range is calculated off the fuel gauge so if the floater is screwed then you wont get the right estimate
seat heater very common we have a write up to fix that also
radio display not bad to change the bulbs
and the key fobs not working sounds like my car need a new Body Control module go get one in the junk yard and have it flashed and your fobs reprogrammed and you'll be good (got that problem with mine) teset your fobs at autozone or somewhere first just to rule them out
gas gauge is broke cause of the floater we have a write up to fix that also the DIC fuel range is calculated off the fuel gauge so if the floater is screwed then you wont get the right estimate
seat heater very common we have a write up to fix that also
radio display not bad to change the bulbs
and the key fobs not working sounds like my car need a new Body Control module go get one in the junk yard and have it flashed and your fobs reprogrammed and you'll be good (got that problem with mine) teset your fobs at autozone or somewhere first just to rule them out
#20
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None of that would be deal breaker for me. I think it'* a matter of how much time and money you wanted to spend to fix it after you buy it. We can't tell you what to do exactly, we can only give our opinions. I think they are all relatively cheap fixes. The BCM has to get flashed by a dealer or someone with a Tech II programmer, the fob could also be a matter of having it coded back to the car.