I think 4th went out. Shortly after doing a WOT the scan shows the trans dropping from 4th and not going back. I'll know more when I open it up.

Got out today and got started.

Got the car up as high as I can get it.


Drained the transmission


Removing the hub nut.


Brakes, and rotors removed, the hubs are being stubborn.


Removed the splash guards, flex plate access cover, and disconnected the transmission cooling lines.


Time to warm up and get a bite to eat. I'll be picking up a bigger puller after lunch.

Nice work, sucks about your trans though!
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Well, I went out and bought a hardened socket, this works much better. What a pain getting these bolts out.


After getting those out I popped the ball joints. Easier doing that first I think.


And out she comes.


Axle came out super easy, just push in a bit, then a sharp pull and it was in my hand.


Lots of open space now.


So then I go to the other side. OK, I know it'* called a breaker bar, but come on, I don't think this is what that means.


This looks like a good time to stop. Didn't get as far as I wanted, but I'm about 75%. I'll stop at sears and exchange the breaker bar in the morning and then I can get back to work. My hope is to have the transmission out of the car tomorrow. At the very least I want everything ready and the engine hanging from the lift.

I'm sorry I didn't get something to you sooner Dan. Unfortunately you did that the hardest way possible from the looks and it fought well.

If you pop the ball joint with a long bar, you won't hurt the boot and you can leave the knuckle bolted to the tie rod and strut. Just pull the strut toward the back of the car and the axle will slide out.

A side note: you should never pull on an axle. You can pull them apart and have to buy a new one. You should always pop then by tapping or prying (quick pop) from behind the CV that is at the transmission side. This way the CV won't be pulled apart by mistake.

Looks really good so far. I'd PB those cradle connection point bolts again before calling it a night if you can.

I had the cradle off 2 weeks ago Bill. 4 of the 6 bolts were removed and the other 2 were loosened.

Ya, the service manuals didn't help much at all.

Edit. The axle actually just came right out, no pop was needed.

I'm talking splitting the cradle. From 92 to I think 99 the cradle splits in two. Front passengerside there are 3-4 bolts and rear driverside there are 4-5 bolts. Breaking the cradle apart will keep the power steering rack from being pulled off the subframe and help out as the sub itself is pretty darn heavy.

On the axle.. you got lucky. Really shouldn't tug on them. Ever. There is a tool that is made for going behing the trans side CV with a slide hammer to pop them out. Most of the time it'* overrated and really works poorly on our driverside axle. A prybar for driverside and block of wood with hammer for the passengerside seem to work the best overall.

Please understand that as I write this I realize it probably sounds pretty dry. I only mean to help and save you time and effort whereever possible as I've had too many experiences with most stuff on my 97. Also have a buddy that had been a mechanic for 20 something years who taught me some of the tricks and speedier ways to get the work done.

By pulling the two strut to knuckle bolts, you will need an alignment or need to get them tightened back down at the same spots as before.

I'll have to look for those bolts tomorrow. I'm all snug in my chair now.

I'm gonna go with Bill too Dan. You took the hard route. I find it easier to just drop the passenger side A-arm off the steering knuckle, pop the shaft out of the trans, and just let it sit. Hook the trans up to the chain, and pull it towards the passenger side, pop the drivers side shaft and done.

Though, I have yet to do the frame part yet and am curious. I have dropped the trans through the bottom while the engine was in. PITA, much worse trying to put it back into the hole.

You may need an alignment now Dan.

You sure earned it.

To all.. I've pm'd Dan some axle removing instructions that should make side two much easier. Surely once he'* all set on the trans, he'll put it into some good instructions for us all..

Hey.. speaking of. I might have some pics.
Ohhh man. It'* in a pb album called Axles Removal. I tell you guys..I got nearly everything.

Jack and support the car.


Zip the tire out of the way



34mm socket for Bonneville axle nuts, remove axle nut



Thread nut back on so it'* flush with the end of the axle. This way when you hit it, the threads on the axle do not become hurt. Hit until you see axle move inward. This is to free it from the tapered splines of the hub/bearing.


Remove cotter pin from the castle nut on the balljoint


Using your 18mm wrench remove the castle nut from the balljoint


If the nut won't come out.. do your best to have it fully loosened.


Undo your endlink to facilitate the control arm moving.


Unbolt the brake like from the body.


Bring in a 4-5 foot prybar (I use my steel floor jack handle) from by the front bumper where the wheel well meets it toward the body between the body edge and subframe bolts. Slide it under the axle and over the control arm.



Pry down. It helps to have a helper. At the same time as the prying, hit the balljoing on the side (not where the grease zerk is, other side ) and after a few hits the ball joint will come free from the knuckle. Move the strut/knuckle behind the ball joint before letting the control arm back up.

I like to sit/kneel facing the hub. My hand that is closer to the rear of the vehicle grabs the caliper and pulls outward and toward the rear of the vehicle. At the same time, the hand that is closer to the front of the car reaches around and cups the CV between the hub an the outter CV joint. Pushing backward on the CV and outward and back on the knuckle you pull the axle out of the hub and then lay it on the control arm. Pics for this part are poor because I was basically blocking all the shots with my body to do the work.

I moved my hand off the CV for a second for this shot. My hand was between the hub and the outter boot of the CV.



Crawl under and use a prybar etc (usually I use a block of wood and hammer on the pass side and prybar on driverside). to give the CV a quick pop like hit from the back. If you put tension on it the clip will hold it in. A quick pop is what is needed to remove it. Here we have the prybar in place.


And the axle is out.


You may notice that somebody forgot that the axle seals, seal the axles from leaking trans fluid because the level of fluid is above them.
That someone then got under the car and drained the trans.


Technically this step should be before now. For anyone wondering $5 Steralite or Rubbermaid from Walmarts storage section.


Hope this helps.... feel free to turn this post into a write up .. I'm probaby off to bed soon.