Parking Brake Question( Bad Switch or what)
#1
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Parking Brake Question( Bad Switch or what)
I just recently redid the entire rear barking system along with new steel lines but now my brake light will come on and go off by itself, so I had the friend of mine that did the rear brake work pull the drums and check the E-Brake setup on both drums and they are still hooked up. So after I helped him reassemble everything I check the brake fluid and it was right where it needs to be so I proceeded to due the next idea I had and that was to start the car and apply the E-Brake and then put it in drive and let off the brake and the car didn't move at all so I am guessing it may be my switch but I am not for sure on that so do yall think it sounds like a switch? Thanks.
#3
Retired
Hmmm, tough one here. That light could be triggered by 1 of 3 things. Low break fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, low fluid in the ABS pump, or the switch on the parking brake is not closing all the way when the parking brake is release.
When you release the parking brake, pull it up with your toe to see if it comes up further.
When you release the parking brake, pull it up with your toe to see if it comes up further.
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#4
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Its easy to check the switch. It'* just a simple plunger switch above the arm for the brake pedal. Sometimes they come out of position and when the arm is in the up position the switch is not fully engaged. Crawl under there and take a look.
If you rule out the switch, you have a bigger problem.
If you rule out the switch, you have a bigger problem.
#5
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The fluid is full in the master cylinder and there is no more give in making the E-Brake to go up any more. Also the light just comes on in random, it has no set way of when it come on. It may come on one minute and after you shut the car off it may not come back on till the next day or maybe the next few days, who knows. Also I have checked the switch and it seams fine but it does seam to look on the worn side but I am not for sure. But for the encase of I may just but a new switch. They are only 2.50$ at my local auto parts store.
#6
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Good decision. The switch may not be the problem, but at $2.50 its a cheap way to rule it out.
Try pushing the park brake down, then reaching up there and depressing the switch by hand. See if the brake light goes off when you manually depress the switch.
Try pushing the park brake down, then reaching up there and depressing the switch by hand. See if the brake light goes off when you manually depress the switch.
#7
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The first time it did do that I did what you had mentioned but the light stayed on for a few seconds but after that it went off but can right back on when I hit a bump in the road. That is the reason why I am leaning towards a switch problem.
#9
Retired
If you can disconnect it and use a paperclip to jump the connector, go for a test drive to see if it comes back. If it doesn't do anything, disconnect the electrical connector at the brake master cylinder and jump the 2 pins on the connector.
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#10
well from past experience i believe i would bleed the brakes again. you have a sensor tha will indicate when the brake pedal has been applied and has gone down to far. and when the brake light come on, the only way it will come off is by pumping the brake pedal. and that is caused from a tiny bit of air in the lines.