If it isn't one thing . . .
#11
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
As far as problems that werent my own doing go, all mine ever needed was:
Ps line right after i bought it, which was about 160
then the harmonic balancer went out-250
catalytic converter-60
coupler-10
rear suspension upgraded to performance struts in the future-160
oil pan gasket leaks-25 bux
ive only had the car for a year and a half, so overall id say that it isnt that bad
Ps line right after i bought it, which was about 160
then the harmonic balancer went out-250
catalytic converter-60
coupler-10
rear suspension upgraded to performance struts in the future-160
oil pan gasket leaks-25 bux
ive only had the car for a year and a half, so overall id say that it isnt that bad
#14
Senior Member
True Car Nut
BlazinGTP has a good point. Any car is going to need to have parts replaced, and some new cars are actually worse than some used ones. But with most used cars, you have to expect that you will need repairs. A lot of it has to do with how you drive your car and how you maintain it. The part you can't control is how the last guy drove it and maintained it. (But you can try to find out before you buy it.) That'* one reason to buy from private owners instead of dealers.
Your experience is not typical of these cars. But, if you want to feel better about it, compare the cost of buying a new car to buying and fixing up a used one. Don't forget to include depreciation. Your repair costs will quickly begin to look smaller and smaller. I like to buy cars in good condition at a little over 100K miles. At this point, the depreciation curve is really flattening out and you get tremendous value for your dollar.
The great thing about this forum is that for most (if not all) of the stuff you listed, you could have gotten help here to fix it yourself and save a lot of money. A rebuilt rack can be had for about $100, and a new PS pump for about the same. If you had to invest another $100 in tools, you would still have been $600 richer than paying the dealer to do this work.
Learning how to fix your own car will save you a lot of money and give you a lot of satisfaction. Even if you don't have time to fix it yourself, knowing how gives you a greater appreciation and understanding of whether the shop is being honest with you. (The only people who think the average price for changing a heater core is outrageous are those who haven't done one themselves!)
Hope this helps to put it in perspective.
Your experience is not typical of these cars. But, if you want to feel better about it, compare the cost of buying a new car to buying and fixing up a used one. Don't forget to include depreciation. Your repair costs will quickly begin to look smaller and smaller. I like to buy cars in good condition at a little over 100K miles. At this point, the depreciation curve is really flattening out and you get tremendous value for your dollar.
The great thing about this forum is that for most (if not all) of the stuff you listed, you could have gotten help here to fix it yourself and save a lot of money. A rebuilt rack can be had for about $100, and a new PS pump for about the same. If you had to invest another $100 in tools, you would still have been $600 richer than paying the dealer to do this work.
Learning how to fix your own car will save you a lot of money and give you a lot of satisfaction. Even if you don't have time to fix it yourself, knowing how gives you a greater appreciation and understanding of whether the shop is being honest with you. (The only people who think the average price for changing a heater core is outrageous are those who haven't done one themselves!)
Hope this helps to put it in perspective.
#15
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97 SE..bought two years ago at 85,000 miles...now has 117,000 miles...replaced the ac compressor,serp belt,front brakes,regular tune up items,also had a prob with ecu,bought a used one for 75 bucks...best running smoothest riding best gas mileage car ive ever owned..still looks like new...
#16
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CD player $100
Antenna motor $110
Airdam support $30
Sunroof motor $50
Power seat switch $5
Window motor $120
ICM $200
Cam sensor $16
Crank sensor $24
Sunvisors $10
Ceramic front pads $60
Rear shoes $20
Turned rotors, drums $20
Neon shields Free
Weather stripping $50
Foglight $15
SilverStar 9005s $40
Headliner Supplies $80
Randman Visors $60
Total Repairs $1010
My previous owner was a bastard. I have no idea how he left the leather and paint intact.
Antenna motor $110
Airdam support $30
Sunroof motor $50
Power seat switch $5
Window motor $120
ICM $200
Cam sensor $16
Crank sensor $24
Sunvisors $10
Ceramic front pads $60
Rear shoes $20
Turned rotors, drums $20
Neon shields Free
Weather stripping $50
Foglight $15
SilverStar 9005s $40
Headliner Supplies $80
Randman Visors $60
Total Repairs $1010
My previous owner was a bastard. I have no idea how he left the leather and paint intact.
#17
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Let'* see here. Tune up: $200 [there is a lot of **** that needs replacing].
Overhaul gasket set [to fix oil leak] $175
Brakes: $50 [a lot of doing the wrong thing and not getting anywhere]
Towing for when my tranny took a **** on the road: $50
Tools: $400-$600 [I started with nothing, btw]
Oil Pan [for when I dropped the car]: $40
Instrument Cluster [Because I LOVE gadgets]: $150
Fluids [not including Brake Fluid]: $80
Some of the things in there weren't necessary, some of the things were. There is more, but I think I have recorded my spending more than I want to.. I really don't want to price anything more out, because nobody needs to know. After I am done from a performance standpoint, I will be about $300 deeper in the hole. Suspension standpoint: $2500. Stereo Standpoint: $1200. Probably going to be $5000 in this car.. but I got the car for free, and for a reliable car [that she will be once I am done with her] around here is $2500.. and it isn't going to be pretty. So, I wouldn't have it any other way.
-justin
Overhaul gasket set [to fix oil leak] $175
Brakes: $50 [a lot of doing the wrong thing and not getting anywhere]
Towing for when my tranny took a **** on the road: $50
Tools: $400-$600 [I started with nothing, btw]
Oil Pan [for when I dropped the car]: $40
Instrument Cluster [Because I LOVE gadgets]: $150
Fluids [not including Brake Fluid]: $80
Some of the things in there weren't necessary, some of the things were. There is more, but I think I have recorded my spending more than I want to.. I really don't want to price anything more out, because nobody needs to know. After I am done from a performance standpoint, I will be about $300 deeper in the hole. Suspension standpoint: $2500. Stereo Standpoint: $1200. Probably going to be $5000 in this car.. but I got the car for free, and for a reliable car [that she will be once I am done with her] around here is $2500.. and it isn't going to be pretty. So, I wouldn't have it any other way.
-justin
#18
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Originally Posted by bill buttermore
The great thing about this forum is that for most (if not all) of the stuff you listed, you could have gotten help here to fix it yourself and save a lot of money. A rebuilt rack can be had for about $100, and a new PS pump for about the same. If you had to invest another $100 in tools, you would still have been $600 richer than paying the dealer to do this work.
Learning how to fix your own car will save you a lot of money and give you a lot of satisfaction. Even if you don't have time to fix it yourself, knowing how gives you a greater appreciation and understanding of whether the shop is being honest with you. (The only people who think the average price for changing a heater core is outrageous are those who haven't done one themselves!)
Hope this helps to put it in perspective.
Learning how to fix your own car will save you a lot of money and give you a lot of satisfaction. Even if you don't have time to fix it yourself, knowing how gives you a greater appreciation and understanding of whether the shop is being honest with you. (The only people who think the average price for changing a heater core is outrageous are those who haven't done one themselves!)
Hope this helps to put it in perspective.
And I know for fact the car was never beaten on by the previous owner, I happen to be related to him.
#19
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ive only needed a fuel sending unit, belt tensioner, and battery(the factory delco battery terminals get corroded prematurelyand they fall off). bought it in may of '03 with 76,000 now it has just over 82,000. hmm 6k miles in two years...
#20
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Nearing 200,000 miles...
My master cylinder isn't original either, and the one that'* in there now probably detracts a lot from brake feel/linearity. I don't know whether my steering rack is original or not, but I theorize that it'* been replaced at one point or another with a rebuilt unit. Your guys' general consensus is that brake/steering feel/feedback is pretty good - not me. My car is a chore/boat to drive, even with the strut tower bar adding to the handling
but eh, it always has been and always will be technically a beater. In 4 years of ownership and about 3 years of service (t'was parked for a year), it'* been good. I see it doing another couple years with my family, tops.
My master cylinder isn't original either, and the one that'* in there now probably detracts a lot from brake feel/linearity. I don't know whether my steering rack is original or not, but I theorize that it'* been replaced at one point or another with a rebuilt unit. Your guys' general consensus is that brake/steering feel/feedback is pretty good - not me. My car is a chore/boat to drive, even with the strut tower bar adding to the handling
but eh, it always has been and always will be technically a beater. In 4 years of ownership and about 3 years of service (t'was parked for a year), it'* been good. I see it doing another couple years with my family, tops.