This doesn't make any sense at all:
#11
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Ron, it'* explained above. Bottle, 3 air fittings, some tubing, OEM cap/gasket, and a regulator. The pictures clearly show the rest. You also have to cut out the center of the res lid gasket to allow the air in. Leave the outer ring to seal the cap to the reservior.
#12
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Where could one find a bottle like that and where do you get the air fittings :?:
Nice set up.
That should keep all the contaminants out of the ABS system and really help it last longer trouble free.
I also replace and flush brake fluid every couple of years. I have never had a leak or brake failure using this practice over 35 years.
Nice set up.
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That should keep all the contaminants out of the ABS system and really help it last longer trouble free.
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I also replace and flush brake fluid every couple of years. I have never had a leak or brake failure using this practice over 35 years.
#13
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Going back to the master cylinder length, what do you think is the shortest you could have on there and still stop the car for just daily driving, and no 60-0 tests? I don't think you need even a 6.5" to stop the car within any government'* regulations.
However, I notice that my 94 stops harder and faster with similar brake pedal movement as compared to my 99. This is probably a very poor comparison, but it'* what I've got. The 94 has ceramic brake pads & shoes, though. I don't know if that could possibly do so much better than the cheap stuff on the 99. You seem to run much more closely aligned setups, so have you noticed a difference in the brake pressure?
However, I notice that my 94 stops harder and faster with similar brake pedal movement as compared to my 99. This is probably a very poor comparison, but it'* what I've got. The 94 has ceramic brake pads & shoes, though. I don't know if that could possibly do so much better than the cheap stuff on the 99. You seem to run much more closely aligned setups, so have you noticed a difference in the brake pressure?
#14
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My setups with regards to my brakes are farther apart than yours. The SSEi has been totally reworked. Powerslot/ceramic up front, High quality full rebuild on the rear with only about 1000 miles on the drums, shoes, springs, and cylinders.
SLE is how I bought it a couple years and a half ago. I have no way of comparing them. Right NOW, though, they brake very similarly with the new MC in the SLE, and the SSEi due to happen today. The SSEi'* MC is showing very early signs of failure.
SLE is how I bought it a couple years and a half ago. I have no way of comparing them. Right NOW, though, they brake very similarly with the new MC in the SLE, and the SSEi due to happen today. The SSEi'* MC is showing very early signs of failure.
#15
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At Mcmaster-car (www.mcmaster.com):
2801T55
Graduated Polypropylene Write-on Bottle 32 oz Cap, 3-1/2" Dia Base, 8-1/4" Overall Height
In stock at $5.43 Each
Fittings:
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/gfx/large/5449kp6l.gif)
5449K293
Metric Black Acetal Push-to-Conn Tube Fitting Panel Mount Coupling for 6mm Tube OD
In stock
Quantity Each
1-9 Each $4.93
10 or more 4.02
Tubing:
5347K19
Laboratory Clear Tygon PVC Tubing 4 mm ID, 6 mm OD, 1 mm Wall Thickness
In stock
Quantity Per Ft.
1-48 Ft. $0.71
49 or more 0.61
Available lengths are 10, 25 and 49 feet.
Regulator example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEEDAIRE-1-4-PN...QQcmdZViewItem
Get an OEM cap, cut out the center 'bump' of the cap seal, and RTV in the remaining 'donut'. Your RTV MUST fill the tiny groove on the inside of the lid. This is the vent and will cause a major overflow. The fittings above are presto-loc style (push in, push to release) on both ends, and are a threaded body with a flange and nut. I ran washers on each side with o-rings under each washer. So from the lid, it goes o-ring, washer, nut/flange, fitting on each side. I have no leaks.
There are manual style bleeders out there, but they start around 60 bucks. As you can see, this is far less money, more compact, and is far easy to control the on/off and pressure.
If you have EITHER a compressor or ELC, this is the way to go. You could bleed all four corners at the same time if you chose to. I prefer to still do them in the 'normal' rotation of longest path to shortest path to the MC. RR, LR, RF, LF.
2801T55
Graduated Polypropylene Write-on Bottle 32 oz Cap, 3-1/2" Dia Base, 8-1/4" Overall Height
In stock at $5.43 Each
Fittings:
![](http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/113/gfx/large/5449kp6l.gif)
5449K293
Metric Black Acetal Push-to-Conn Tube Fitting Panel Mount Coupling for 6mm Tube OD
In stock
Quantity Each
1-9 Each $4.93
10 or more 4.02
Tubing:
5347K19
Laboratory Clear Tygon PVC Tubing 4 mm ID, 6 mm OD, 1 mm Wall Thickness
In stock
Quantity Per Ft.
1-48 Ft. $0.71
49 or more 0.61
Available lengths are 10, 25 and 49 feet.
Regulator example:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SPEEDAIRE-1-4-PN...QQcmdZViewItem
Get an OEM cap, cut out the center 'bump' of the cap seal, and RTV in the remaining 'donut'. Your RTV MUST fill the tiny groove on the inside of the lid. This is the vent and will cause a major overflow. The fittings above are presto-loc style (push in, push to release) on both ends, and are a threaded body with a flange and nut. I ran washers on each side with o-rings under each washer. So from the lid, it goes o-ring, washer, nut/flange, fitting on each side. I have no leaks.
There are manual style bleeders out there, but they start around 60 bucks. As you can see, this is far less money, more compact, and is far easy to control the on/off and pressure.
If you have EITHER a compressor or ELC, this is the way to go. You could bleed all four corners at the same time if you chose to. I prefer to still do them in the 'normal' rotation of longest path to shortest path to the MC. RR, LR, RF, LF.
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Originally Posted by willwren
I might do the Zilla tomorrow. It'* only 40 degrees out, and a dry cold wind blowing. Windchill is nasty.
it'* 4 here! i would kill for forty!
and we might have a water pump to replace
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#18
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This might be a little simple of a question to ask, I have no clue about these things, but in relation to topic, what does the bigger master cylinder do for the car compared to the smaller one?
#19
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Here'* a good explanation when a guy building a custom rod (and adding modern brakes) went to a ship to get the right MC:
In the long run, most of these factors are the same between my cars except for weight. They're about 400 pounds apart. Now there MAY be a 'cutoff' point for GM where they go with the larger MC when the vehicle weight increases to a set amount. I would expect so, but does it make sense for that number to fall right between my two cars?
Who knows.
After describing what I was trying to do and with which components, Vince asked several questions: What size tires?, vehicle weight?, engine size?, front to back weight distribution?, and use of vehicle? He also needed to know caliper diameters for front and back units. With my answers and his background he was able to size the master cylinder to the job.
Who knows.