custom intake specs
#1
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I've seen quite a few people lately saying they are going to build a custom intake... so, why don't we all share our info to make sure none of us wastes money building something that is bad for the car...
the one im working on (maybe for limited production) will be schedule 40 pvc, i chose this since it is cheaper to bend and has beter thermal properties than thin metal... i've run some air flow numbers through flowmaster (not the company, a computer program) and it will handle a maximum of 1200cfm, where the engine only requires 450cfm max (i'm figuring that since the M90 pulls 450cfm max). the filter will cut that number down some, but it'll still give better flow. I'm also planning a true CAI box made of HVAC parts, and a RAM AIR tube from a bendable tubing of sizable diameter.
So, what are you guys planning? what are your specs?
I don't want to see any "your idea won't work" without an explanation and a better idea, it'* called constructive critisism, try it. it seems to be lacking in every intake thread i see.... every new idea is thrown away without looking at the specs.... ugh, anyway, i'm rambling... let the ideas flow.
the one im working on (maybe for limited production) will be schedule 40 pvc, i chose this since it is cheaper to bend and has beter thermal properties than thin metal... i've run some air flow numbers through flowmaster (not the company, a computer program) and it will handle a maximum of 1200cfm, where the engine only requires 450cfm max (i'm figuring that since the M90 pulls 450cfm max). the filter will cut that number down some, but it'll still give better flow. I'm also planning a true CAI box made of HVAC parts, and a RAM AIR tube from a bendable tubing of sizable diameter.
So, what are you guys planning? what are your specs?
I don't want to see any "your idea won't work" without an explanation and a better idea, it'* called constructive critisism, try it. it seems to be lacking in every intake thread i see.... every new idea is thrown away without looking at the specs.... ugh, anyway, i'm rambling... let the ideas flow.
#2
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I tried some techniques today, heating and bending the pipe doesn't really seem to be an option, i tried indirect and direct heat, neither would get a wide enough area of the pipe hot for a crumple-less bend. Since a simple 45* angle will work, i'm now trying cutting the hub off a plumbing 3" street 45, and join it almost seemlessly to a straight section of pipe. my best bet seems to be a inner tube of a thin metal, i've tried with some tin, and it'* thin enough not to impede air flow... i talked to a guy at Home Depot who has built a tube for his Firebird with a L36, he used exterior oil based spray primer, and enamel pigment and clear coats, however since our exhuast crossover pipe is so close i'm trying heat resistant enamel on some spare pipe and i must admit seeing that cherry red pipe under the hood gets me going. Basically this has turned out to be one heck of a learning day, i got to try alot of things and see what methods will be easiest. i hope to see your ideas soon, i'm feeling lonely :(
#3
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myself, i used a 3" stainless mandrel bent tube with a 40* on it, after all was installed , i used racecar insulation mating and wrapped it and then completely wrapped it with HVAC tape. as for the airbox, i used lucit tough plexiglass. and had it get air only from behind the headlight assembly, and also insulated it and sealed all the seams with HVAC tape also. my IAT sensor is in the intake tube. the before and after effect was this, my IAT sensor was 40* colder after i did the insulation. a good K&N cone filter should not reduce the airflow by much at all.
#4
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Did you make your CAI box in any way removable in case you need to get to the charcoal canister? cause i know as soon as i put something permanantly in the way, i'll have to get to it....
Also, in messing with the pvc, i've learned that butt joints don't work very well, but i will try a doweled butt joint, and then my idea with the thin metal inside.... and so far i've got 1 coat of primer, 2 coats of pigment and 1 coat of clear sprayed, only two more coats of clear to go as per the paint guy'* recommendation, buty it looks sweet as heck now....
Also, in messing with the pvc, i've learned that butt joints don't work very well, but i will try a doweled butt joint, and then my idea with the thin metal inside.... and so far i've got 1 coat of primer, 2 coats of pigment and 1 coat of clear sprayed, only two more coats of clear to go as per the paint guy'* recommendation, buty it looks sweet as heck now....
#6
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definatly sounds like a nice system to me, but i can't imagine the costs assotiated. i've got my test pipe fully painted, pics to be taken in the morning. i've tried a little JB Weld on the pipe, but it'* sort of dificult, even though it has waaaay more grab then even i assumed. I'm going to have to pick up some sand paper and different color paints to play with. my test pipe wasn't preped at all and is purty, so i figure if i do it body style with the bondo and all i should make people have to clean their pants
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#9
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what I'm doing is a pile of burnt, cut, mutilated pvc, covered in varying states of painting and gluing
but i hope it to look like a smooth, swiftly curved pipe attached to the TB by a 3" cast iron no hub coupling, topped off by a K&N X Tream
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#10
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I got a 18 inch piece of 3 1/2 steel pipe bent at an shop in town. Then I sent it off to http://performancecoatings.com/ for a cermachrome finish. Got it back about a week and a half later, stuck a huge K&N cone on the end of it. Still looking for a silicone reducer/coupler to make it perfect though. Cost me a little under a 100$.
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