Better Brakes
#11
One other question about the brakes here, are you guys putting the anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads before installation?? I know the stuff that gets used on my car is reddish colored stuff, it'* somewhat thick and you put it on just before installing the pads( back of the pads). Without that you get terrible brake noise.
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Originally Posted by sse1990
One other question about the brakes here, are you guys putting the anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads before installation?? I know the stuff that gets used on my car is reddish colored stuff, it'* somewhat thick and you put it on just before installing the pads( back of the pads). Without that you get terrible brake noise.
#13
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Good info here...
I have never had any issues with my Bendix Titanimuns... I think they were $40... And for my delco'* on the 91 they were $55... Both have been great and free of issues...
Good Luck and let us know what you do...
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I have never had any issues with my Bendix Titanimuns... I think they were $40... And for my delco'* on the 91 they were $55... Both have been great and free of issues...
Good Luck and let us know what you do...
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make sure and use a synthetic moly lube on the backing plates and slide pins so they will wear evenly instead of wearing the inside pad out quicker. Synthetic moly lube holds up to heat a little better and lasts a little longer, a good parts store should stock a small tube for a few bucks, a few bucks well spent......BTW man for as many beers as I had last night I didnt have NEARLY the spelling errors in that big azz post I thought I would WOOHOO!!!
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moly lube is what prevents most brake pad squeel, it is basica`lly liquid metal which will evenly fill in any gaps and therefore eliminate squeel by filling in any space where vibration is generated.. if there is no space then no vibration that causes noise can be generated..
that red brake goo is just a crappy, cheap substitute and doesnt do the job nearly as well.
On the slotted rotor idea... slotted rotors on our cars are useless except for show purposes. any brake fade that you may notice ios not from overheating parts. it is created when the brake fluid gets too hot and any inpurities in the fluid expands under heat strain and makes a less functional compression in the caliper... the impurities will compress before the fluid will push the piston out..
(i am not talking out of my *** here, i learned all of this in a BAER brake training/certification course i took)
that red brake goo is just a crappy, cheap substitute and doesnt do the job nearly as well.
On the slotted rotor idea... slotted rotors on our cars are useless except for show purposes. any brake fade that you may notice ios not from overheating parts. it is created when the brake fluid gets too hot and any inpurities in the fluid expands under heat strain and makes a less functional compression in the caliper... the impurities will compress before the fluid will push the piston out..
(i am not talking out of my *** here, i learned all of this in a BAER brake training/certification course i took)
#16
Originally Posted by toastedoats
On the slotted rotor idea... slotted rotors on our cars are useless except for show purposes. any brake fade that you may notice ios not from overheating parts. it is created when the brake fluid gets too hot and any inpurities in the fluid expands under heat strain and makes a less functional compression in the caliper... the impurities will compress before the fluid will push the piston out..
(i am not talking out of my A$$ here, i learned all of this in a BAER brake training/certification course i took)
(i am not talking out of my A$$ here, i learned all of this in a BAER brake training/certification course i took)
Maybe Will can chime in on this one too.
I laugh all the time when someone says they know about it cause they were told about it at a course or something. I used to get tech calls from people that are "certified" for computer stuff and they had the "training" and you know what they needed the most help of all.
And talking about brake fade. I had the regular rotors on the car and when I was a bit hard on it I could barely stop, once I switched over to the slotted rotors, it was night and day. Actually that isn't even a big enough difference to describe it. No fluid was changed, no fluid was added, it just worked better, plain and simple. Of course this is on my Malibu that I put a ton of mileage on, driving for hours a day in the city, on the HWY, you name it.
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Beside the heat venting capabilities of a vented rotor (not drilled) they ensure more even pad wear due to the fact that they are slotted on both sides. They also clean the pad surface better to ensure no brake dust or crap get built up on the pad/rotor. In extreme circumstances they can cure brake fade do to allowing the heat to escape between the pad and rotor under racing degree temps. On the street they look good function great and last long......BTW isnt BAER that company that sells all those slotted brakes???!!!
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Originally Posted by sse1990
One other question about the brakes here, are you guys putting the anti-squeal stuff on the back of the pads before installation?? I know the stuff that gets used on my car is reddish colored stuff, it'* somewhat thick and you put it on just before installing the pads( back of the pads). Without that you get terrible brake noise.
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in my opinion, no one will encounter hot enough brakes on a street situation to be able to benefit from slotted rotors..
..note..
Could it just be that you replaced rotors that needed it and thats why your stopping was improved... or could it be all in your head?? (Ive seen people get drunk off of straight Cola)
I AM NOT SAYING YOUR CARS BRAKING DIDNT IMPROVE - just a thought
[/b]
..note..
Could it just be that you replaced rotors that needed it and thats why your stopping was improved... or could it be all in your head?? (Ive seen people get drunk off of straight Cola)
I AM NOT SAYING YOUR CARS BRAKING DIDNT IMPROVE - just a thought
[/b]
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im not sure what the stock braking distance is on a 95 SSEi but I do know my Buicks (lighter with 4 wheel disc) stock braking distance is in the 127-135 range 60-0...if my Gtech measured the Bonne at 128 from 60 then that would tell me that similar if not slightly better performance from a heavier rear drum car shouldnt be as good unless the brakes are working better than stock..just my .02