180 Thermostat?
#12
I have a stock 2000 Regal GS, and recently picked up a 2002 LeSabre Limited that needs new water pump and radiator. I am considering also changing to 180 degree thermostat in the LeSabre, but have read a lot of conflicting info on the forum about whether it is good/helpful to change on a stock car. (I have owned some Grand Nationals and T-Types, so I know they usually change to 165 thermostats because of the turbos). I also read about thermostats with holes in them - one, two, or four holes - that seems to make a difference. How important are these holes, and do you buy the thermostat with the holes or do you drill them yourself, and if so, where do you put the holes? Should I really even care about these holes on a stock car? I live in Alabama so it does get cold in winter but not usually for very long, so getting heat in winter is not a big concern for me.
#13
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Fair warning, it'* generally considered bad etiquette to post in a very old thread. Local staff can get quite excitable over it as well, and it'* even forbidden in forum rules if memory serves me well.
In reference to your question however, the general idea is to try and reduce or put off heatsoak in the supercharged application as long as possible, especially when running hard. Heatsoak tends to invite preignition, which can be very bad with forced induction. Stock fan settings will not allow you to capitalize on a lower temp thermostat usually, because the fans still allow the engine to run warmer before they come on. Fan overrides, or custom programming is usually necessary to use it to the fullest. Naturally aspirated applications haven't reported any gains from a lower temperature thermostat, and tend to be happier when running warmer for better combustion.
I ran a 180* thermostat in my Park Avenue for years and saw no benefit. The only difference you will notice will be that the temperature gauge may ride a bit lower while on the road or with the A/C running.
The hole is for bleeding air out of the system, because air will get trapped behind the thermostat, and can be a major pain to get bled out without the hole.
In reference to your question however, the general idea is to try and reduce or put off heatsoak in the supercharged application as long as possible, especially when running hard. Heatsoak tends to invite preignition, which can be very bad with forced induction. Stock fan settings will not allow you to capitalize on a lower temp thermostat usually, because the fans still allow the engine to run warmer before they come on. Fan overrides, or custom programming is usually necessary to use it to the fullest. Naturally aspirated applications haven't reported any gains from a lower temperature thermostat, and tend to be happier when running warmer for better combustion.
I ran a 180* thermostat in my Park Avenue for years and saw no benefit. The only difference you will notice will be that the temperature gauge may ride a bit lower while on the road or with the A/C running.
The hole is for bleeding air out of the system, because air will get trapped behind the thermostat, and can be a major pain to get bled out without the hole.
#14
Thanks a lot for the good info, and I apologize for using the old thread; I'll use/start a new thread next time. I may as well just stay with the stock thermostat so everything works as normal.
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2000SilverBullet
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02-11-2003 12:48 AM