03' Bonneville Turbo Cummins Swap
#1
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03' Bonneville Turbo Cummins Swap
So I finally decided to scrap the 3.8. Trent volunteered to help with the big swap. Here'* the donor engine.
So we got to work removing the old engine...
lol, here'* what really happened.
Trent got to work on the braided fuel lines, pulling the SC and IC core.
The gasket was in pretty bad shape, looks like coolant was probably soaking into it from the coolant passages. Trent sealed that up pretty good when he reassembled it.
Meanwhile, I started on the shift kit. Luckily the shop had a few large oil pans laying around.
I also decided to redo the intercooler lines again. (Here'* the pictures I promised Bill)
This is where the pump was mounted.
Here is how I reworked it all. The lines now run straight across instead of going to an elbow after the pulleys, also put on this reservoir kit, I'm very happy with it so far.
Moved the location of the pump, also implemented my own little flow detection kit that I pieced together after a long day of research. Got a 1" PVC elbow from Dwyer instruments, it has a switch that when the flow reaches 2.5 GPM will complete a circuit. Attached it to the hose with 2 barb adapters. I plan on attaching an LED to it so that the LED will turn on with flow, and turn off if there is no flow. It was getting a little late so I decided the inside work could wait, although I did get the wires inside for it.
Told you it was late! We weren't quite done yet either. (That is AM, not PM)
Here'* Trent'* work on the fuel lines. Turned out great.
After everything was done we went out for a test run. Did a few WOT pulls, had a few misfires on 3. The next day I checked all the wires and ended up re-gapping the plug for 3, it was .02 off. Did another WOT pull and got misfires on 2-4. I'm going to check the gap on the rest of the plugs, but I'm sure the stock manifold and lack of tune aren't helping. Also sounds like I'm getting bad belt slip on a WOT 3-4 shift, and then at high speeds (much greater than highway speed). Headers and an 8 rib kit are in the near future.
So we got to work removing the old engine...
lol, here'* what really happened.
Trent got to work on the braided fuel lines, pulling the SC and IC core.
The gasket was in pretty bad shape, looks like coolant was probably soaking into it from the coolant passages. Trent sealed that up pretty good when he reassembled it.
Meanwhile, I started on the shift kit. Luckily the shop had a few large oil pans laying around.
I also decided to redo the intercooler lines again. (Here'* the pictures I promised Bill)
This is where the pump was mounted.
Here is how I reworked it all. The lines now run straight across instead of going to an elbow after the pulleys, also put on this reservoir kit, I'm very happy with it so far.
Moved the location of the pump, also implemented my own little flow detection kit that I pieced together after a long day of research. Got a 1" PVC elbow from Dwyer instruments, it has a switch that when the flow reaches 2.5 GPM will complete a circuit. Attached it to the hose with 2 barb adapters. I plan on attaching an LED to it so that the LED will turn on with flow, and turn off if there is no flow. It was getting a little late so I decided the inside work could wait, although I did get the wires inside for it.
Told you it was late! We weren't quite done yet either. (That is AM, not PM)
Here'* Trent'* work on the fuel lines. Turned out great.
After everything was done we went out for a test run. Did a few WOT pulls, had a few misfires on 3. The next day I checked all the wires and ended up re-gapping the plug for 3, it was .02 off. Did another WOT pull and got misfires on 2-4. I'm going to check the gap on the rest of the plugs, but I'm sure the stock manifold and lack of tune aren't helping. Also sounds like I'm getting bad belt slip on a WOT 3-4 shift, and then at high speeds (much greater than highway speed). Headers and an 8 rib kit are in the near future.
#3
Retired
Are you going with a Eaton 13 speed or all out 18 speed? Such a big powerplant in a small vehicle, I would suggest the Eaton Super 10 for nice easy burnouts.
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#5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
You shouldn't be seeing slip. Most Bonneville guys don't get slip. It'* more of a GP/Regal issue because of how their tensioner is setup. You might try out a Gates belt first. They look like traction tape.
Please list the info on that elbow. I know others are interested and would love to see the same type of thing. It looks just like the elbow in my setup. Caspers probably made the electronics to have the red or green led, which you don't really need. All you need is a single indicator.
Did you guys open up the coolant flow under the TB while you were there? I know it was on the possible plan.
Please list the info on that elbow. I know others are interested and would love to see the same type of thing. It looks just like the elbow in my setup. Caspers probably made the electronics to have the red or green led, which you don't really need. All you need is a single indicator.
Did you guys open up the coolant flow under the TB while you were there? I know it was on the possible plan.
#6
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You shouldn't be seeing slip. Most Bonneville guys don't get slip. It'* more of a GP/Regal issue because of how their tensioner is setup. You might try out a Gates belt first. They look like traction tape.
Please list the info on that elbow. I know others are interested and would love to see the same type of thing. It looks just like the elbow in my setup. Caspers probably made the electronics to have the red or green led, which you don't really need. All you need is a single indicator.
Did you guys open up the coolant flow under the TB while you were there? I know it was on the possible plan.
Please list the info on that elbow. I know others are interested and would love to see the same type of thing. It looks just like the elbow in my setup. Caspers probably made the electronics to have the red or green led, which you don't really need. All you need is a single indicator.
Did you guys open up the coolant flow under the TB while you were there? I know it was on the possible plan.
I thought this looked a lot like your setup, that'* what caught my attention.
Here is the info on the elbow. http://www.dwyer-inst.com/Products/P...eName=Ordering It is the Series V12 Flotect Flow Switch, cost is $40.25. I went with the 2.5 GPM switch. The switch closes the circuit when the flow is present. I remember seeing similar products elsewhere that would open the circuit when flow is present (for if you want your indicator to turn on when there is no flow instead of turn off when there is no flow).
We didn't get the coolant passage done. Trent'* garage was being used at the time so we didn't have access to his machining tools. It is still on the list of things to do though. I think he is planning on doing the same to his bonneville, so we will probably just do them both at the same time.
#9
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I opened the thread and was like "what does he mean scrap the 3800?" Is he freakin kidding? LOL Nice lookin build bro. Cant wait to hear what your runnin when you get everything all squared away.