Supercharger Removal and Install
#1
Executed
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Supercharger Removal and Install
Has anyone every has the pleasure of removing a supercharger and putting a new one on? I just bought a bebuilt supercharger from canadiansuperchargers.com for real cheap and I was wondering how hard they are to install. I hope not too hard. Its right out in the open and doesn't look hard but maybe there'* something I don't know about...Can anyone fill me in on this..Thanks
#3
Executed
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can't see it being too hard. Plus my dad is a mechanic so if I get stuck he can help. I just like to do stuff on my own ya know? My car has 140,000 on it and i thought it was time to get a new SC. It only cost me $442 from canadiansuperchargers.com. Brian hooked me up and deathrat from bonneville intenstiy plugged the company. Any member of bonneville intensity can get this deal...Well worth it.
#4
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Your best friend will be a torque wrench. It should be easier than changing a starter or water pump. Are you getting a nosecone leak or grinding? These things usually outlast the car!
#5
Executed
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No grinding or leaks. I just figure its tired and time for a new one. The supercharger sounds perfectly fine. It just has alot of miles on it and has never been replaced to my knowledge. I was in on of my dad'* used cars, which was a 94 ssei with 80,000 on it, and the thing screwed. It felt much faster than mine and I figure its the supercharger thats holding me up. We'll see soon won't we?
By the way, do the rebuilt superchargers come with a new gasket that fits between the sc and the engine?
By the way, do the rebuilt superchargers come with a new gasket that fits between the sc and the engine?
#6
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
I don't know the answer to that one. I've seen two different procedures, and one calls for no gasket, while the other does. The Rat would be a good one to ask.....which we just did! He'll jump in here in an hour or two........wait, he'* not working til 12....that'* 11am west coast time........
Anyway, the dealer will be your only source for the gasket if it doesn't come with the blower.
Anyway, the dealer will be your only source for the gasket if it doesn't come with the blower.
#7
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
10:35 AM my time actually Wil!
Fist off, glad I could help! Second was there a core charge on that SC? :?
Let'* see 94 SSEi right? I'll get a proceedure together for ya!
Fist off, glad I could help! Second was there a core charge on that SC? :?
Let'* see 94 SSEi right? I'll get a proceedure together for ya!
#8
Executed
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah the $442 I paid was the price provided I return my core to him. If I held on to my core, he would bill me for it. But I thought this was a good price.
Also, I went on ebay and noticed some guy from PA had a bored out supercharger for a 94-95 bonneville with a 2.5" pulley. He claims its all brand new and the BUY IT NOW price is $750. Do you think this is worth it or what? He claims it adds like 5 psi and like 40 HP or something ridiculous. Would this workk or is this supercharger just gonna break down?
By the way, thanks for getting something together for me rat.
Also, I went on ebay and noticed some guy from PA had a bored out supercharger for a 94-95 bonneville with a 2.5" pulley. He claims its all brand new and the BUY IT NOW price is $750. Do you think this is worth it or what? He claims it adds like 5 psi and like 40 HP or something ridiculous. Would this workk or is this supercharger just gonna break down?
By the way, thanks for getting something together for me rat.
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Edmonton, AB Canada
Posts: 2,621
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here'* the info again, just in case your don't get it in your E-Mail!
Supercharger: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove supercharger drive belt.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure
NOTE: J34730-1 Fuel Pressure Gauge or equivalent required.
a. Disconnect the negative battery cable, to avoid fuel pump turn on, if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
b. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
c. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop
towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to avoid spillage.
d. Install bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed
the system pressure. Fuel connections are now safe for servicing.
e. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.
4. Remove injector shield.
5. Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from fuel rail.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
7. Disconnect fuel injector, IAC valve, TPS, MAF sensor, EGR, and boost solenoid
electrical connectors.
8. Remove fuel rail with injectors attached.
9. Disconnect intake air duct.
10. Disconnect EGR pipe from supercharger.
11. Remove throttle and cruise control cables and brackets from throttle body.
12. Remove belt tensioner/bracket assembly from supercharger (stud must be removed
from body of supercharger to allow proper clearance for removal.)
13. Remove supercharger to manifold bolts and carefully lift supercharger from
engine. (Note alignment pins. Do not drop supercharger onto manifold.)
INSTALLATION
1. Clean all mating surfaces thoroughly and insert new gaskets and O-rings. Use no
sealer.
2. Install supercharger, carefully aligned with locating pins.
3. Tighten supercharger to manifold bolts evenly to 26 Nm (19 ft.lbs). Start with
those closest to the center on either side and alternate side to side, working
towards ends.
4. Install remaining components in reverse order of removal.
5. Tighten bolts to torque specifications as listed below.
SUPERCHARGER TO LOWER MANIFOLD
26 Nm (19 ft.lbs)
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID TO ACTUATOR
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
ACTUATOR TO SUPERCHARGER
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
FUEL RAIL TO MANIFOLD
15 Nm (11 ft.lbs)
Supercharger: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove supercharger drive belt.
3. Relieve fuel system pressure
NOTE: J34730-1 Fuel Pressure Gauge or equivalent required.
a. Disconnect the negative battery cable, to avoid fuel pump turn on, if an
accidental attempt is made to start the engine.
b. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve tank vapor pressure.
c. Connect the fuel pressure gauge to the pressure connection. Wrap a shop
towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge to avoid spillage.
d. Install bleed hose into an approved container and open the valve to bleed
the system pressure. Fuel connections are now safe for servicing.
e. Drain any fuel remaining in the gauge into an approved container.
4. Remove injector shield.
5. Disconnect fuel supply and return hoses from fuel rail.
6. Disconnect vacuum hose from pressure regulator.
7. Disconnect fuel injector, IAC valve, TPS, MAF sensor, EGR, and boost solenoid
electrical connectors.
8. Remove fuel rail with injectors attached.
9. Disconnect intake air duct.
10. Disconnect EGR pipe from supercharger.
11. Remove throttle and cruise control cables and brackets from throttle body.
12. Remove belt tensioner/bracket assembly from supercharger (stud must be removed
from body of supercharger to allow proper clearance for removal.)
13. Remove supercharger to manifold bolts and carefully lift supercharger from
engine. (Note alignment pins. Do not drop supercharger onto manifold.)
INSTALLATION
1. Clean all mating surfaces thoroughly and insert new gaskets and O-rings. Use no
sealer.
2. Install supercharger, carefully aligned with locating pins.
3. Tighten supercharger to manifold bolts evenly to 26 Nm (19 ft.lbs). Start with
those closest to the center on either side and alternate side to side, working
towards ends.
4. Install remaining components in reverse order of removal.
5. Tighten bolts to torque specifications as listed below.
SUPERCHARGER TO LOWER MANIFOLD
26 Nm (19 ft.lbs)
BOOST CONTROL SOLENOID TO ACTUATOR
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
ACTUATOR TO SUPERCHARGER
30 Nm (22 ft.lbs)
FUEL RAIL TO MANIFOLD
15 Nm (11 ft.lbs)
#10
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Monroe, MI
Posts: 230
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm in the middle of removing my */C right now and I'm kind of stuck, so pardon me for the thread hijack. :P I'm to the point of the boost control solenoid. I have all the bolts off, but the arm goes inside the */c which I haven't taken off yet. I wish I could show you guys a pic, but maybe someone will know what I'm talking about. Do I have to pull the */C to get the arm out? Or am I missing something.. Thanks in advance.