S/C and MAF sensor (URGENT)
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Hey guys. Yesterday, I took apart my Supercharger for a clean and
re-seal (the nose was leaking). In the process, I damaged O-ring in the
part that is circled in red. Is this called the vacuum block - could someone confirm please?
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fai...01.jpg&.view=t
Also, after I started the car, there was an SES light, which went away after a while. I drove the car and everything was fine for a while. However, now the car is shutting off almost immediately, and code 34 (MAF sensor) is coming on.
Could driving without that O-ring in place have caused the MAF sensor to go? I doubt it, but wanted to confirm.
Finally, should I assume that the Diagnostic is correct and replace the MAF sensor? It could be the connector that is faulty also, no?
Thanks.
re-seal (the nose was leaking). In the process, I damaged O-ring in the
part that is circled in red. Is this called the vacuum block - could someone confirm please?
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fai...01.jpg&.view=t
Also, after I started the car, there was an SES light, which went away after a while. I drove the car and everything was fine for a while. However, now the car is shutting off almost immediately, and code 34 (MAF sensor) is coming on.
Could driving without that O-ring in place have caused the MAF sensor to go? I doubt it, but wanted to confirm.
Finally, should I assume that the Diagnostic is correct and replace the MAF sensor? It could be the connector that is faulty also, no?
Thanks.
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Originally Posted by faisalmali
Hey guys. Yesterday, I took apart my Supercharger for a clean and
re-seal (the nose was leaking). In the process, I damaged O-ring in the
part that is circled in red. Is this called the vacuum block - could someone confirm please?
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fai...01.jpg&.view=t
Also, after I started the car, there was an SES light, which went away after a while. I drove the car and everything was fine for a while. However, now the car is shutting off almost immediately, and code 34 (MAF sensor) is coming on.
Could driving without that O-ring in place have caused the MAF sensor to go? I doubt it, but wanted to confirm.
Finally, should I assume that the Diagnostic is correct and replace the MAF sensor? It could be the connector that is faulty also, no?
Thanks.
re-seal (the nose was leaking). In the process, I damaged O-ring in the
part that is circled in red. Is this called the vacuum block - could someone confirm please?
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/fai...01.jpg&.view=t
Also, after I started the car, there was an SES light, which went away after a while. I drove the car and everything was fine for a while. However, now the car is shutting off almost immediately, and code 34 (MAF sensor) is coming on.
Could driving without that O-ring in place have caused the MAF sensor to go? I doubt it, but wanted to confirm.
Finally, should I assume that the Diagnostic is correct and replace the MAF sensor? It could be the connector that is faulty also, no?
Thanks.
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That'* what I suspected. Will definitely give it a try.
I actually didn't remove the */C completely. I turned it enough so that I could open the nose cone. I did take the impelers out and cleaned them with Brake Parts cleaner (there was a lot of carbon deposit). I then put a gasket maker on both the nose cone to the part that holds the gears (I don't know the technical term) and on that part to the main */C housing. That was my error the first time when I changed the coupler, and why my nose cone was leaking.
I know the proper way is to remove the whole */C but the gasket looked so good and well stuck on that I figured that it was OK to do it this way. That'* what I did last time, and there were no problems, either.
Thanks.
I actually didn't remove the */C completely. I turned it enough so that I could open the nose cone. I did take the impelers out and cleaned them with Brake Parts cleaner (there was a lot of carbon deposit). I then put a gasket maker on both the nose cone to the part that holds the gears (I don't know the technical term) and on that part to the main */C housing. That was my error the first time when I changed the coupler, and why my nose cone was leaking.
I know the proper way is to remove the whole */C but the gasket looked so good and well stuck on that I figured that it was OK to do it this way. That'* what I did last time, and there were no problems, either.
Thanks.
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So is it possible you got something on the sensor? Keep us updated on this one. You're the first I know of to not remove the SC for this. It'* really not that big of a deal, and it'* nice to have all the parts on the bench for cleaning. A really good cleaning of the TB can be of huge benefit to performance and efficiency, too. Just remember that the MAF sensor is very delicate.
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Willwren,
You wouldn't happen to know the part # on the vacuum block (or the O-ring), would you? I am having a hard time explaining to the dealer. I have sent him the pic, but obviously a part # would be easier. I tried to look for it on the acdelco.com site, but couldn't really find it.
Thanks.
You wouldn't happen to know the part # on the vacuum block (or the O-ring), would you? I am having a hard time explaining to the dealer. I have sent him the pic, but obviously a part # would be easier. I tried to look for it on the acdelco.com site, but couldn't really find it.
Thanks.
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That looks like a 92 or 93 SSEi. You should put that in your signature ![Wink](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/wink.gif)
The only part number I show is the "manifold Assy, Supercharger" 24501609 for the 92-95, and the seal is 24500472 for 92-97, but I THINK that'* the one the power brake boost comes off of. It would be the one closer to the firewall, with the flat top. The one you have circled is the smaller one near the front of the car down in the little hole. Can you just go buy the right sized o-ring from the store? I don't have that one listed.
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The only part number I show is the "manifold Assy, Supercharger" 24501609 for the 92-95, and the seal is 24500472 for 92-97, but I THINK that'* the one the power brake boost comes off of. It would be the one closer to the firewall, with the flat top. The one you have circled is the smaller one near the front of the car down in the little hole. Can you just go buy the right sized o-ring from the store? I don't have that one listed.
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Yes, it'* a 93, but it needs a bit of cleaning up before it can become part of my signature.
I am going to go to a parts store and look for one. Home Depot had the same size, but not the thickness so it wouldn't go in.
Thanks for all your help.
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I am going to go to a parts store and look for one. Home Depot had the same size, but not the thickness so it wouldn't go in.
Thanks for all your help.
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OK. This is what'* happened so far. I replaced the O-ring on the vacuum block. Not fixed. Checked the electrical connector to the MAF sensor, and it gives properly voltages (as per Chilton Manual). I took apart the MAF sensor and MAF sensor screen and cleaned up the housing (and then replaced both). Not fixed.
I finally put in a used MAF sensor from a junkyard (less than half price of new, and comes with one year warranty). Now the problem is this. The car starts up and drives totally fine (no SES light). But when the car is shut off, and then started up, it throws the same code 34. Once I put a diagnostic tool and run through the codes again, the car starts up and drives fine again (no SES light).
So, two questions:
1) does reading the codes thoroughly also reset the codes?
2) it looks like that the car is storing the codes while driving but does not show an SES light. Once resetted, it drives fine again. What could that be, and how can I test/fix it?
Thanks.
I finally put in a used MAF sensor from a junkyard (less than half price of new, and comes with one year warranty). Now the problem is this. The car starts up and drives totally fine (no SES light). But when the car is shut off, and then started up, it throws the same code 34. Once I put a diagnostic tool and run through the codes again, the car starts up and drives fine again (no SES light).
So, two questions:
1) does reading the codes thoroughly also reset the codes?
2) it looks like that the car is storing the codes while driving but does not show an SES light. Once resetted, it drives fine again. What could that be, and how can I test/fix it?
Thanks.
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2 questions back at ya.....did you get a MAF sensor out of a 92 or 93 SSEi? Year and model specific. I don't believe the SE or SSE MAF will work, and I know 94/95 is different.
Secondly, did you disconnect your battery for about 30 minutes after installing the new sensor? That'll clear all codes, and start you off fresh. If the code comes back, you know it'* real.
Secondly, did you disconnect your battery for about 30 minutes after installing the new sensor? That'll clear all codes, and start you off fresh. If the code comes back, you know it'* real.