rattling noise from s/c?
#1
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Hi,
My moms buick park avenue ultra has a rattling noise coming from the */c at idle. The car drives fine and only makes this noise when idling. I did a search and found out its probably the */c coupler that needs to be replaced. My question is, should I remove the whole supercharger to replace the coupler? Thank you
My moms buick park avenue ultra has a rattling noise coming from the */c at idle. The car drives fine and only makes this noise when idling. I did a search and found out its probably the */c coupler that needs to be replaced. My question is, should I remove the whole supercharger to replace the coupler? Thank you
#4
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Don't even attempt to remove the nosedrive by itself. You'll get pissed and push the car off the cliff.
Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com
I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.
Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com
I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.
Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
#5
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Originally Posted by willwren
Don't even attempt to remove the nosedrive by itself. You'll get pissed and push the car off the cliff.
Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com
I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.
Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
Get the supercharger outlet gasket, TB gasket, and anything else you want from the dealer, and get the coupler from www.zzperformance.com
I suggest reading ALOT here in Forced Induction before you begin. Especially the sticky post up at the top of the forum, and do a search on "rebuild" or "coupler" in Forced Induction.
Torque specs are in Techinfo, Specifications at the top of the page, but I still strongly suggest a service manual of some type.
#6
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Easy Job, just takes basic metric hand tools and the parts. You didn't say what year, but there are a lot of people here that can help
ken
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#7
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Originally Posted by kennlee
Easy Job, just takes basic metric hand tools and the parts. You didn't say what year, but there are a lot of people here that can help
ken
ken
#8
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Just make sure you use nothing but 'intake safe' cleaner on the TB and SC. Some carb cleaners and brake cleaners will remove the teflon coating on the SC rotors.
Insure the TB is totally dry before re-installing the MAF sensor.
Contrary to popular belief, the rotors are NOT coated with Teflon to lubricate them from contact. The rotors never touch (and they better not!), it'* to help prevent carbon buildup considering the location of the EGR inlet.
Insure the TB is totally dry before re-installing the MAF sensor.
Contrary to popular belief, the rotors are NOT coated with Teflon to lubricate them from contact. The rotors never touch (and they better not!), it'* to help prevent carbon buildup considering the location of the EGR inlet.
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The 94 is the Series I and is a easy job, just take it off as a unit or you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the nose off. There are several step-by-step how to'* on the subject, including page 2 of my web site below. There is also a list of parts and where to get them.
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#10
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Originally Posted by kennlee
The 94 is the Series I and is a easy job, just take it off as a unit or you'll drive yourself nuts trying to get the nose off. There are several step-by-step how to'* on the subject, including page 2 of my web site below. There is also a list of parts and where to get them.
ken
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