It has begun.
#1
It has begun.
This sucker was a BEAST to get apart, especially the gears on the ends of the rotor shafts.
I haven't removed the needle bearings from the housing for the rotor ends yet from the housing, but that'* easy compared to what it took to create this mess.
#4
Full rebuild with improved seals. I may be dropping another pulley size or two this year.
All torn down. Not a single thing left disassembled. Including the often left alone seals and bearings on the non-throttle body end of the rotors. Those are a real bear. The gears do NOT want to come off.
This brings up an interesting problem. How do I press the gears back on after the new bearings are installed, and maintain the proper backlash (gap between lobes) in the rotors AND the proper backlash in the gears?
My plan for now, unless I dream up something better or hear otherwise is to use some mylar shim stock between the rotors to keep the gap, and press BOTH gears on simultaneously. I'll have to make a jig to clear the three pins on the drive gear, and both rotor shafts. Then I'll use a hydraulic press (same one I used to press the drive plate and bearing off the nosedrive shaft) to put it back together.
I have all the parts, and only need to extract the needle bearings from the throttle body end of the housing for the rotor shafts. I've already made the tool to do it, just need to drill and tap the two holes to 1/8" NPT, and force them out.
The other question is.....do I mess with trying to find a coating for the rotors? Now'* the time to do it.
All torn down. Not a single thing left disassembled. Including the often left alone seals and bearings on the non-throttle body end of the rotors. Those are a real bear. The gears do NOT want to come off.
This brings up an interesting problem. How do I press the gears back on after the new bearings are installed, and maintain the proper backlash (gap between lobes) in the rotors AND the proper backlash in the gears?
My plan for now, unless I dream up something better or hear otherwise is to use some mylar shim stock between the rotors to keep the gap, and press BOTH gears on simultaneously. I'll have to make a jig to clear the three pins on the drive gear, and both rotor shafts. Then I'll use a hydraulic press (same one I used to press the drive plate and bearing off the nosedrive shaft) to put it back together.
I have all the parts, and only need to extract the needle bearings from the throttle body end of the housing for the rotor shafts. I've already made the tool to do it, just need to drill and tap the two holes to 1/8" NPT, and force them out.
The other question is.....do I mess with trying to find a coating for the rotors? Now'* the time to do it.
#7
http://www.emcprocess.com/
http://www.icstechnologies.com/
http://www.pcmco.com/
I'll talk to my Machine Shop at work tomorrow and see if there'* a local (Oregon) source for this.
http://www.icstechnologies.com/
http://www.pcmco.com/
I'll talk to my Machine Shop at work tomorrow and see if there'* a local (Oregon) source for this.
#9
I've posted a few before, but not of the nosedrive torn down, and I've never even SEEN a pic of the rotor housing completely disassembled, except for a pic that rollingperformance sent me of an M90.
It'* interesting, if you compare my pic above to the pics on www.rollingperformance.com of the M90, there are some obvious differences. No spring on the nosedrive shaft for starters.
It'* interesting, if you compare my pic above to the pics on www.rollingperformance.com of the M90, there are some obvious differences. No spring on the nosedrive shaft for starters.
#10
This will definitely be a learning experience for you Bill.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Sending the rotors out for the coating sounds like a very good idea. Choose the shop wisely.......do your homework.
My bet is that there is enough float in the bearings to withstand the temperature differentials it experiences so it may not be that critical.
Good luck with the rebuild.
Sending the rotors out for the coating sounds like a very good idea. Choose the shop wisely.......do your homework.
My bet is that there is enough float in the bearings to withstand the temperature differentials it experiences so it may not be that critical.