I have heard that people have made custom setups using some cheap turbo'* off either a diesel truck or a tractor. If I were able to get my hands on a turbo like this, how feasible would it be to make a custom turbo setup? Even low boost? Looking for something relatively cheap, most work can be done by a mechanic friend (not the guy who advised me on rotating tires).

I don't know if I'd use one off a tractor. They are usually pretty big, and not always the most efficient, especially at high rpms. They are built for lower speed.

we have one on a tractor, it is WAY too big to put on a car. Not only is there nowhere to put it, but you would need another engine to spool it. The tractor we have it on is a beast tho. (Versatile 565 i think?)

Hmm, well in that case maybe a diesel turbo??? I could probably find one at the junkyard pretty cheap.

Hmm awful big project. You can try a few web pages, I found a turbo I was bidding on for $100. You can usually find a decent one for around that price. Before you start thinking "wow cheap!" think about the other things you'll need. I found a list that deals with DSM'* but it'll give you an idea on what you'll need:

Manifold - HF/STD/CX Factory Honda Manifolds can be used with an adapter plate, or you can simply go out and buy a Turbo Manifold from Drag/Greddy/HKS. Check on Ebay for custom manifolds, lots of guys sell them.

Adapter Plate - Each plate is a bit different depending on the turbocharger, You can simply make this yourself or take it to a machine shop and get one made.

Downpipe - This is where picking a good turbocharger gets tough, finding a turbo that has the downpipe exhaust flange aimed in a good spot for the downpipe. (for a smooth bend) Doing test fits are very important, take the exhaust manifold off your car and just set the turbo in the engine bay and visualize how the downpipe can be made. Some turbos are damn near impossible to use. Once you have selected a good turbo, I recommend a 2.5 inch downpipe any decent exhaust shop can do this for you. Mandrel bends are very nice to use also.

Intercooler - This is entirely up to you. You don't have to have an intercooler but it keeps the IC temps down a lesser chance of detonation. First take off your front bumper and see how much room you got up their. Take good measurements and visualize where the charge pipes will go. Sometimes a lot of cutting/hacking is involved when doing this. The starion/conquest intercooler is great to use for custom projects like this. They can easily be modified and look great! Sometimes they can be a bit tough to find at a decent price.

BOV - I highly recommend a BOV, without one you get a really shitty sound. Not only does this sound bad, but once you hit higher levels of boost it will do damage to your turbocharger. Compressor Surge, once the throttle body closes and the charge lines still have pressure they back-feed to the turbocharger and try to spin it the wrong way. DSM bov'* are easy to find, cheap and work great! Just about any BOV will work, even the really inexpensive Bosch Bov'* that are very quiet.

Brass T - A Brass T will hook up on the back off the block 1/8bsp is the thread pitch. A 3 way splitter will have to be used. 1 for your stock Oil Pressure Gauge, 1 for your Oil feed line (1/4 barb fitting) and the other to a brass extension from the block. I like to use High pressure line from Napa (350psi Tranny line 5/16) about 4.5 feet you will need. I also flare the fitting on the turbo side and double hose clamp it. For oil return, you will have to install a fitting in your oil pan and create a return line for oil drainage from the turbo. It'* pretty easy to do. On the Brass T, most fittings come in 1/8 NPT, and some people like to buy BSP to NPT adapter, I usually run a 1/8th die over my NPT threads and it works like a charm.

Coolant lines - For Coolant lines I like to use just normal fuel line. You will need around 7.5 feet total. Also get a couple splitters so you can tap into your cooling system somewhere. I like to use the throttle body coolant bypass hoses for this.

Charge Pipes - This can be a lot of different things. Using factory DSM pipes chopped up works really good. Exhaust/Radiator hoses/PVC pipe I have seen a lot of things used for this, they all work.

Gauges - I recommend at least a boost gauge, but an Air/Fuel gauge is very nice to have, especially when trying to tune your car. EGT'* gauges are also nice to have.

Engine Management - Turbo charging a car is not rocket science, Engine management is very important in a good running forced inducted Honda/Acura. This is where I have lacked in my past setups causing a lot of blown motors.

Best - Standalone Fuel Management/ AEM EMS / Hondata / Zdyne / Accel DFI / Speedpro / TEC II / Motec / Haltech. And I am sure there are others. Most systems cost over 1000 bucks. Larger injectors are used. Fuel/Spark Maps can be changed anyway you want them. Vtec/Nos control whatever these systems do it all! You can run a lot of boost on a stock bottom end with a standalone system, Detonation is not a problem unless you don't know how to tune with them.

Good - Injector Hack, This involves, putting larger injector in your car and using a controller to pulse the injectors slower, by modifying the Map sensor input voltage to the ECU. These setups work great with DSM 450cc injectors. A rising rate regulator (FMU) with a larger inline pump is also another method, these can do pretty well depending on size disc you use in your FMU. When reaching higher levels of boost (I would say over 8psi) I recommend some type of ignition retarding device. The MSD BTM is perfect for this. It backs your timing down as you boost, its adjustable with a ****. Check valves or Missing link will also have to be installed to hide boost from the stock ECU, so it does not throw a check engine light.

Fair - Rising rate regulator on stock injectors with nothing else will let you run around 5-7psi. I would keep a close eye on your air/fuel gauge and be sure to listen for any type of pinging.

None - It can be done, but not recommend at all. Back your timing down a few degrees, get 1 step colder plugs, buy high octane fuel all the time, a large front mount IC will be needed. Run a maximum of 5 psi. Also, if you have an extra coolant temp sensor, unplug the factory connector and plug it into your extra one, just let the sensor hang in the engine bay. This will trick the ecu into thinking the car is always cold and going full rich. It'* a cheesy method but if you have nothing. Better safe than sorry.

Oh and check out www.homemadeturbo.com , its where I got the list but it has more info. Mainly DSM'* but it may be helpful

that starts to get expensive really fast!

yup

how bout a turbo from a Chevy 6.5L Turbo Diesel? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2463284482

OH YEA!!

It would probably work, but I would still stick with one designed for a gasoline engine.