Thanks Ted.

Here'* what I've been ablle to accomplish. I can't put my hands on a fuel pressure guage for the schrader valve. I realize how important it is to check the rail pressure, I'll work on that. After replacing the plugs and wires [totally incidental to this issue] I have been able to get the engine to crank and run by spraying carb cleaner into the intake. Given that it will run in this manner, I beileve we have the spark and timing possibilities out of the way. I have removed the fuel lines from either side of the fuel rail and switched the key on. The fuel pump is delivering fuel that far. I do not know the fuel path, so I'm not sure what I'm seeing by doing this other than I know the lines are not obstructed. I've had someone depress the schrader valve core while cranking the engine, and fuel is squirting, exact pressure of course is unknown. There is no particular residual pressure on the regulator after cranking the engine or having it run momnetarily. I thought there should be some. I've replaced the vacuum connections from the throtle body to the vapor collection reservior. There is a pretty intricate network of vacuum lines both hard and flexable. The "T'*" and "L'*" were cracked and rotting. They have been replaced. Some were no longer available so I created "fixes" for them using tubing and adapters. The only reason I mention the vacuum system is its direct effect on the pressure regulator.

Is there anything more complicated than an internal combustion engine? I thought all you really needed was fuel, air, and spark. Replies, responses and suggestions all welcome. Thanks. I really need to get this car back on the road. Walking isn't crowded but it is inconvenient.

Here'* a link for a fuel pressure gauge.
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16174

Here'* a couple things to try. When the key is turned to the run position the fuel pump should run for 2 seconds to prime the fuel rail. Do this 2 or 3 times & then check for fuel in the vacuum line going to the pressure regulator. If fuel is found in the line replace the regulator. If there'* no sign of fuel in the vacuum line then depress the Schrader valve & see if fuel sprays out or just drips.

If both those check out then we need to check for injector pulse. You can check this with a #194 light bulb. Remove a wire from one of the injectors & insert the wires from the light bulb into the injector harness. Watch for the bulb to pulse while someone cranks over the engine. Look carefully at the bulb it won't go on or off all the way but the pulse can easily be seen.

Thanks for the quick reply, Ted. I am familar with the fuel pressure guage, I just don't have one. The injector pulse was going to be my next question. Thanks for the heads up about the 194 bulb. I'm taking it that it will fit in the injector socket rather than the injector going in it. The car as a plentiful supply of 194 bulbs so this check will be easy. Soon as I get an extra set of hands here to help. What controls the pulse? In the event I don't get a signal to the bulb, what is the next componet upline?

Thanks for the continual check-in.

after cleaning my throttle body i got a ses light on that said TPS low voltage and it was only because when i put back in i did not put in right you need to feel it click in the right place did you take out youre tps sensor

I replaced the TPS. During installation I found that it had to be turned slightly to "catch" the "ears" of the throtle actuator, this places a slight amount of presure on the spring inside the sensor, aligning the screw holes to mout it to the throtle body turns the sensor slightly.

Thanks for posting.

Is there a fuse for the injectors?

Excellent question, I'd like to know the same thing. And since I was going to ask fuse related questions, I'll ask mine as well. I cannot locate a fuse panel on the passenger side. Where is the little monster hiding? The interior of the golve compartment has no access to anything but the lamp. Beneath the dashboard on the passenger side is the plastic shield that hides the AC cocmponents and I suppose the heater core, under there? More importantly, where are the power sources and ground paths for the fuel delivery system. I know the fuel pump is working; past that I cannot verify that power is getting to the necessary elements for getting the fuel into the intake.

To update those who have been so great to keep up, especially Ted, I still haven't been able to check the injector pulse. I cant do this trick alone and my help did not show up last night. I'll keep trying. And by the way, if I discover that the injectors have no pulse what is the next step? What sends current to them?

I'm going back to banging my noggin a while. Thanks again folks for all the help and input.

After many dollars wasted on unnecessary parts and hours spent sweating and swearing the stall issue has been resolved. Thank you all for reading and/or posting suggestions. Here is what the end of this saga looked like.

It was determined that the problem was a fuel delivery issue. I was able to verify the injector pulse, thanks to Ted. A #194 bullb makes a great test light in that the wires can be bent down and will fit perfectly in the injector electric receptical. Switching the key to the run position several times in a row not only forced fuel into the lines and rails but also created enough force to blow the replacement fuel pressure regulator out of its bowl assembly. Turns out, I replaced the regulator with a wrong one. The replacement part was just enough smaller so that it could slip past the snap ring that holds it in place. Lucky I kept all the old parts pending job completion. I put the old part back, having no indication that is bad to start with. Apparently, the entire fuel delivery problem had to do with leaky vacuum connections. Once the old regulator was re-installed I was able to achieve the necessary pressure. One spray of carb cleaner for good luck and the car reluctantly lumbered back to life.

Now for the new issue: Several times while attempting to get the beast to run it has backfired. I'm supposing that this may have someting to do with what I first sensed as a dead cylinder miss then the ominous cloud of white steamy smoke lingering in the air behind the car. An inspection of the oil dip stick reveals the disheartning milky colored oil coolant mixture I believe caused by a blown head gasket. Please help me affirm this suspision here before I start asking more questions in another thread in a more appropriate topic area. FInal question: Would a leaky or imporperly installed timing chain cover create the same symptoms? These are: dead miss in one cylinder, Coolant in the oil pan, steam/white smoke from the exhaust pipe. The reason I ask is I replaced the timing chain and gears as part of the original issue. I don't know if that gasket is creating the new problem or if I have blown a head gasket by backfire. I'll wait for replies to this then will move the related questoins from here on out to a more suitable topic area.

I cannot thank you all enough for sharing your resources, experience and knowlege. Happy Motoring to you all.