no power to fuel pump, power windows & power seat
#1
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Location: Melbourne, FL
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no power to fuel pump, power windows & power seat
:( 1999 Bonnie SE ... Went to start the car and had no fuel pump, power windows, or seat. Car fixed itself shortly after being towed to the dealer, who said that I might need to buy a new fuel pump if it happened again. Happened again while still on the road & tire kingdom replaced the fuel pump, but still didn't start, so I dollied it 230 miles home. When the car (or fuel pump) dies, so do the windows & power seat. Anyone have a similar experience that can potentially help me? Thanks!
#4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
I think you might be on the right track, Bill. I checked my 97 manual and there is a common ground connector for the fuel pump, master window switch and the left hand seat switch. This is a ground buss connector (C340) that has been known for causing problems if corroded. Water leaks are more prevalent in earlier models causing the corrosion but I don't see it too often in the later models though.
C340 is located along the drivers sill near the left kick panel. It is throughly taped to the harness. It will look something like this but with black wires instead of white.
C340 is located along the drivers sill near the left kick panel. It is throughly taped to the harness. It will look something like this but with black wires instead of white.
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I can't tell you guys how impressed I am. I just printed out your info. It seems to me to be the likely culprit. I knew that the 3 items going all at once had to point to something. I'll let you all know if it works! Also, I have the factory alarm, not aftermarket.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
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That fixed it!
Just wanted to let you know that I kicked the panel & the car started! They were pretty corroded ... took a while to clean & treat them. Not sure how it gets so nasty in there? Thanks Again & great picture!
#9
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I was told that spraying it with battery terminal cleaner and then rinsing it off will clean it up nicely, though I have not tried it. I'm guessing wd-40 wouldn't hurt because it is an anti-corrosive.
I took the blue tab out, then I yanked out the metal plate and scraped that on some cement (a wire brush is probably better) and I moved the wire I was having trouble with to an empty connection. then i put it back together and drove to work this morning, haha.
I took the blue tab out, then I yanked out the metal plate and scraped that on some cement (a wire brush is probably better) and I moved the wire I was having trouble with to an empty connection. then i put it back together and drove to work this morning, haha.
#10
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Good electronics cleaner and a light weight wire brushing will be the best. You want to clean it, not scratch it up. A light coating of dielectric grease should keep it corrosion free after that.