Climat control prob.
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If i checked the right one, the gray wire in the back of the climate control reads 0. Is the HVAC something or somewhere different? I can't find anything about it in my Chiltons or Hayes books.
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The climate control is part of the HVAC system.
You say the gray wire on the back of the ECC read 0 volts with the fan speed set to full?
How about the purple wire on the blower control module?
You say the gray wire on the back of the ECC read 0 volts with the fan speed set to full?
How about the purple wire on the blower control module?
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#14
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If you removed the blower wires and it jumped up..that sounds very much like a blower motor. Have you tried a little persuasion on the blower motor casing when it doesn't want to work?
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No no no. It was already going up and down and i pulled the connection to get a reading off of it. It'* not the blower! It'* in between the ECC and the blower. Is the HVAC prog. between them? And is it what i found under the dash with the vacuum lines? If so, it'* the problem.
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Pin B at the blower motor connector should be purple and should read constant battery voltage +12 vdc. The speed control is a varaible function on the negative side of the blower motor pin A (black)
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Originally Posted by Jason1351
No no no. It was already going up and down and i pulled the connection to get a reading off of it. It'* not the blower! It'* in between the ECC and the blower. Is the HVAC prog. between them? And is it what i found under the dash with the vacuum lines? If so, it'* the problem.
We are on your side....and trying to keep you from freezing to death.
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Originally Posted by randman1
The Blower Control Module does it all. When the ECC display indicates the highest fan setting, you should read full battery voltage on the purple wire. The tough part of testing the BCM is that you have an intermittent problem so you'll have to try to duplicate the varying speeds at time of testing. The testing you've already done with the light suggests that the BCM is the problem but I'd like to see it tested with a volt meter or multimeter. This way, you can test the wire coming from the HVAC programmer (gray usually). It should read about 8 volts when fully cranked.
If you haven't already, check the connection at the blower motor
If you haven't already, check the connection at the blower motor
As for checking A and B at the blower, thats what i've been testing (connector on the blower) and niether on runs a constant 12v. Everything has been tested with a multimeter, and yes i know how to use one.
I've already posted all these readings in the this thread but there not being read before you guy'* suggest more test'*, because you keep asking for the same reading'* and tests over and over so i put them all in one. Just getting irritated with my car so i'm sorry if i come off like i don't appreciate the help, because i do. I don't have a damn clue when it comes to alot of stuff on newer cars. I'm used to carburaters(sp?) and vacuumm lines.
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I suggest you purchase a factory service manual for your year and follow the diagnostic chart for this type of issue or consider bringing it to a mechanic specializing in this type of problem.