89 LE - Electric Locks Malfunctioning
#1
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Ok, so this happened about a week ago and I completely forgot until about right now.
I use my electric locks about daily or about as much as anyone else would if they lock their car. Now. I got in my car, unlocked the doors so my passengers could get in and everything was normal. So then I drove about 100 miles to where I was going and I was getting out of the car and pressed the lock but all I heard was a relay/solenoid click underneath the passenger side dash. So I checked the fuse and pulled it out. When i put it back in, I heard all 4 actuators initialize and drop, I tried the locks again, no go, just the clicking underneath the dash. What is the problem here?
I use my electric locks about daily or about as much as anyone else would if they lock their car. Now. I got in my car, unlocked the doors so my passengers could get in and everything was normal. So then I drove about 100 miles to where I was going and I was getting out of the car and pressed the lock but all I heard was a relay/solenoid click underneath the passenger side dash. So I checked the fuse and pulled it out. When i put it back in, I heard all 4 actuators initialize and drop, I tried the locks again, no go, just the clicking underneath the dash. What is the problem here?
#2
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You still have the issue correct?
It'* really an electrical issue BTW, you will want to check the relays as well, test for power at the relay to be sent through to the locks. IIRC recently when Jr'* did his, he mentioned a dual relay system. I don't know what is involved, however start off with the relays and power. Ensure the pins on the relays are reasonably clean, burnt pins will keep things from working.
It'* really an electrical issue BTW, you will want to check the relays as well, test for power at the relay to be sent through to the locks. IIRC recently when Jr'* did his, he mentioned a dual relay system. I don't know what is involved, however start off with the relays and power. Ensure the pins on the relays are reasonably clean, burnt pins will keep things from working.
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Typically, it'* carbon buildup on the contacts of the switch. (They arc everytime the button is pressed.) After a while, the contacts in the switch or the relay can't pass enough current to operate the solenoids in the locks. Check the circuits with a meter and everything looks fine, it just doesn't work.
Just for grins an giggles, try using the lock switches on the Passenger side of the car. Do they work normally? If so, it'* the lock switch on the driver'* side door that is the problem. If not, it is likely a short in one of the lock solenoid coils. (If I recall it correctly, there are two coils on each solenoid..energize one and the plunger retracts to unlock the door, the other one extends the plunger to lock the door.)
Just for grins an giggles, try using the lock switches on the Passenger side of the car. Do they work normally? If so, it'* the lock switch on the driver'* side door that is the problem. If not, it is likely a short in one of the lock solenoid coils. (If I recall it correctly, there are two coils on each solenoid..energize one and the plunger retracts to unlock the door, the other one extends the plunger to lock the door.)
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Not sure if it has anything to do with your problem, but.
After I disconnected the factory alarm and hooked up the aftermarket alarm, i had the same problem. Disconnect alarm, same thing. Locks just don't work on the inside [no biggie, i use the fob to lock 'em anyways.]
After I disconnected the factory alarm and hooked up the aftermarket alarm, i had the same problem. Disconnect alarm, same thing. Locks just don't work on the inside [no biggie, i use the fob to lock 'em anyways.]
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Originally Posted by clm2112
Typically, it'* carbon buildup on the contacts of the switch. (They arc everytime the button is pressed.) After a while, the contacts in the switch or the relay can't pass enough current to operate the solenoids in the locks. Check the circuits with a meter and everything looks fine, it just doesn't work.
Just for grins an giggles, try using the lock switches on the Passenger side of the car. Do they work normally? If so, it'* the lock switch on the driver'* side door that is the problem. If not, it is likely a short in one of the lock solenoid coils. (If I recall it correctly, there are two coils on each solenoid..energize one and the plunger retracts to unlock the door, the other one extends the plunger to lock the door.)
Just for grins an giggles, try using the lock switches on the Passenger side of the car. Do they work normally? If so, it'* the lock switch on the driver'* side door that is the problem. If not, it is likely a short in one of the lock solenoid coils. (If I recall it correctly, there are two coils on each solenoid..energize one and the plunger retracts to unlock the door, the other one extends the plunger to lock the door.)
The 87-91 Bonneville used a Relay for Unlock and another for Lock.. And I agree with curt, try the passenger side switch and see if anything is diffrent
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I should have mentioned that I did try the passenger lock, and still you can just hear the relay clicking. I looked it up in the FSM and it appears that there is only ONE lock relay and that with the symptoms I'm having, that is the most likely culprit.
We'll see. Most likely it won't get fixed right away because spending $20 on a lock relay really is of no priority, I was just hoping that it was a quick, free, or extremely cheap fix.
And sorry for the wrong section for the thread, I was really tired when i started it.
We'll see. Most likely it won't get fixed right away because spending $20 on a lock relay really is of no priority, I was just hoping that it was a quick, free, or extremely cheap fix.
And sorry for the wrong section for the thread, I was really tired when i started it.
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I didn't take the time to read all the posts but I had a problem with my 90 SSE where as when it was very damp out the locks would all remain in the open possition, in other words the unlock possition. I issolated it down to moisture in the front passenger solonoid. What I had to do to resolve the problem is manually push up and down on the lock untill the solonoid released. If that didn't work I disconnected the relay and waited untill it was dry out before reinstalling the relay.
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Originally Posted by wjcollier07
I should have mentioned that I did try the passenger lock, and still you can just hear the relay clicking. I looked it up in the FSM and it appears that there is only ONE lock relay and that with the symptoms I'm having, that is the most likely culprit.
#10
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Well thats kinda what I was thinking myself. Because if the relay is still making its normal click sound, then that would normally indicate a good relay and a bad/loose/corroded connection right? I could very well be wrong as I know nothing about relays, but that would just be common logic. When it gets a little warmer I will get back under there and dig the dash apart. The locks certainly aren't a large concern, I really don't have anything valuable and I don't have an aftermarket HU, but nonetheless, do appreciate the help. I will try that.