oh but i do, and it'* a craftsman.



and is that primer you talk about on spray on primer.? and where could i get it.?

also before i hit the stor for my supplies...

i need to know how to get off that horrible pin striping on the car.. some of it on the rear quarter has been painted over as well. :?

i would love to get this crap off before paint as well.. this is anothe rbig issue besides the peeling spots...

o.k so i went and bought some dupli color ( high build ) filler primer.
it was the only high build primer that i could find. and it was made for automotive use. so i figured it was a filler primer that was sandable so i can over fill the spots where i sanded all the paint off from and sand it smooth and even when it dries,
:? un fortunatley it did not end up that way.. primer can said 20 minutes to dry. i waited 2 hours to really make sure and when i went to sand it it all cam right off and turned like wet clay.? ( i used dry sander paper of a 400 grit.)

so now the bare metal spots i covered are bare metal again and all around the spots the primer actually stood bonded and stuck to the old paint.?

any ideas on what i have to do now.....? i need to get this done and have the car dropped off by feb, 13th to meet the half price special. and the only time i have to do the prep work is from 10 pm at night to about 2 am when i go to sleep each day as i baby sit both kids now as my wife works full time and attends college after school all week and i work the weekends. so my only time is late night during the week..

so please help me get this done the right way please... thanks

Dupli color is a very low end product, many primers are not made for direct to metal use, sand the metal with 240, go out and get an etch primer. and give a LITE see through coat, let dry then prime over it again. let that dry over night

you are mixing the primer and hardener to the right ratio correct?

I doubt that duplicolor eve has a catalyst. Sounds like a reduce and spray lacquer or enamel to me.

if thats the case, then its garbage... lets hope thats not the case

Unfortunately I'm pretty sure it is. I knew an old streetrodder that used the stuff. He used the lacquer which we know is junk. I don't think Duplicolor offers any epoxy/urethanes.

sadly it is a can of spray (filler primer). its all i could find besides rustoleum metal primer.

any suggestions. i have no time to waste here or i will miss the half price dead line and be screwed..

please help me.. thanks

Ok, break out the phone book and find a shop that sells real automotive paint. (DuPont, BASF, etc, etc.) Worst case, you get one of the cheap airless sprayers to shoot the primer, thoug if you have an air compressor, an HVLP "touch-up" gun is all you would need. Using spray can paints, even primer, will kill you in the pocket book, and may also kill the final paint job. While you are there getting a good primer, pick up wet-dry paper and long sanding boards.

If you are going for a really nice paint job, you remove EVERYTHING from the exterior of the car that you can. Everything else gets masked off.

Lets say I wanted to do just the rear of my '90 Bonneville and not deviate from the stock white color. I would remove the tail lights, license plate & holder, bumper cover, badges, antenna, trunk gasket, and even the trunk locking hardware. The current paint would need to be cleaned to spotless with soap and water, followed by acetone...A LOT of Acetone, to remove all traces of grease, oil, and wax. It will also remove the adhesive from your pinstripes (See photo in signature..note, no pinstripes!...lots of fingernail and acetone time)

Next, attack the damage (see Wilwren'* hood repair photo) You feather out the paint around the damage, fix the actual damage itself, then fill and feather again. After all that is done, shoot a coat of primer on it and wait for it to cure. Come back and with a long board and sand paper, wet sand the area again...long strokes. You are leveling out the original paint, fillers and new primer. The primer will show you where your low spots are that still need work. Just keep repeating this till the entire area is smooth. (keep your bare hands off the work area, wear gloves, cause the oils in your hands will contaminate the surface of the primer and paint.) When you are satisfied that it'* as level as you can stand, it'* ready to go to the body shop for finish paint.

220 grit is really as fine as you need for the purposes of leveling the old paint/primer/filler. Since another coat is going on top, a rough 220 surface will give the new paint something to bite into. (We are talking about wet sanding here...where you keep the surface being sanded wet with water while you work...it washes away the debris being sanded off and lubricates the paper. You don't need a lot of pressure forcing the paper onto the surface, it will glide along taking paint off at a fairly aggressive rate.) Save the finer grits for sanding down the finished clear coats.

Prep work is 90% of the job. Shooting the actual paint that makes up the top coats is the easy part. You might even want to tackle that yourself too...by the time you get there, you'll be pretty good at running the HVLP gun from shooting all that primer

And really... the half price "deal" really isn't a deal at all. If you plan on getting rid of the car, then don't do anything and let them have at just shooting a new coat on it el-cheap. If you plan on keeping the car, then fix the bodywork the right way, and shoot a real coat of paint on it.

dont bring your car to maaco they suck and use cheap paint ....i had mine done and it was bad