wheel bearing hub assembly replacement
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
wheel bearing hub assembly replacement
Hello Guys,
I'm attempting to replace front wheel bearing hub assembly on 2002 la sabre.
I don't have access to a air wrench so I'm attempting to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar(15" long) to remove axial nut with the wheel on the ground. As you might expect , that went no where. So now I'm thinking that a 3' steel pipe would give me enough leverage to break "something" loose but I'm not sure what that will be. (breaker bar) maybe.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on how to do this without doing more harm than good.........Thanks for any help
I'm attempting to replace front wheel bearing hub assembly on 2002 la sabre.
I don't have access to a air wrench so I'm attempting to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar(15" long) to remove axial nut with the wheel on the ground. As you might expect , that went no where. So now I'm thinking that a 3' steel pipe would give me enough leverage to break "something" loose but I'm not sure what that will be. (breaker bar) maybe.
So I'm wondering if anyone has any advice on how to do this without doing more harm than good.........Thanks for any help
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
3' long piece of pipe that fits over the end of your 1/2" drive breaker bar. Been there, done that. There is a write up on the forum that shows a neat trick for freeing up a stuck hub with little effort. Let me know if you need me to find that for you.
#3
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Soaking it good with some PB Blaster, along with the 3' bar got mine loose.
What type of socket are you using? I used an axle nut socket (a fancy deep well impact socket).
What type of socket are you using? I used an axle nut socket (a fancy deep well impact socket).
#4
Senior Member
Make it easier....use a longer pipe...recommend having a second person holding the breaker bar/socket in place to keep things straight.....
The next hard part, is driving the end of the axle into the bearing....spray with PB Blaster, and let it soak...reinstall the nut backwards, with the flat end out, covering the outer edge of the threads....then drive the end of the axle inward with a 5# hammer, to free the axle from the bearing......a breaker bar and universal, should take car of the three bolts on the inside of the knuckle...make sure you clean the inside and outside surfaces of the knuckle before installing the bearing......when installing the new axle nut, you will need a torque wrench that is high enough for the spec....I think it is like 120 foot pounds.....just a guess......if it is not tightened enough, early bearing failure is possible....
AND, get a good bearing, or you will be doing this again....
One more side note: If you are replacing only one, make sure you are replacing the correct one....I have seen too many replaced, and it is the wrong side.....in some cases, you may need to replace both......for example, you have a bearing noise......you jack the car up.....one side "feels" loose the other doesn't....you replace the loose one, and the noise is still there.....the loose side was not making the noise(I know it sounds crazy, but it happens).....but eventually, that loose bearing will need replacement.....
The only sure way, to know which bearing needs replacement, is to safely jack up the front end, have someone behind the wheel, and put the car in drive(do not step on the gas pedal), and be ready to apply the brakes if necessary, for safety....then with one hand(use gloves or rag), stop one wheel(this causes the opposite wheel to spin faster), and listen with a mechanic'* stethescope on the knuckle of the sinning wheel, for a growling noise....then do the same for the opposite side.....the loud noise gets the bearing...
The next hard part, is driving the end of the axle into the bearing....spray with PB Blaster, and let it soak...reinstall the nut backwards, with the flat end out, covering the outer edge of the threads....then drive the end of the axle inward with a 5# hammer, to free the axle from the bearing......a breaker bar and universal, should take car of the three bolts on the inside of the knuckle...make sure you clean the inside and outside surfaces of the knuckle before installing the bearing......when installing the new axle nut, you will need a torque wrench that is high enough for the spec....I think it is like 120 foot pounds.....just a guess......if it is not tightened enough, early bearing failure is possible....
AND, get a good bearing, or you will be doing this again....
One more side note: If you are replacing only one, make sure you are replacing the correct one....I have seen too many replaced, and it is the wrong side.....in some cases, you may need to replace both......for example, you have a bearing noise......you jack the car up.....one side "feels" loose the other doesn't....you replace the loose one, and the noise is still there.....the loose side was not making the noise(I know it sounds crazy, but it happens).....but eventually, that loose bearing will need replacement.....
The only sure way, to know which bearing needs replacement, is to safely jack up the front end, have someone behind the wheel, and put the car in drive(do not step on the gas pedal), and be ready to apply the brakes if necessary, for safety....then with one hand(use gloves or rag), stop one wheel(this causes the opposite wheel to spin faster), and listen with a mechanic'* stethescope on the knuckle of the sinning wheel, for a growling noise....then do the same for the opposite side.....the loud noise gets the bearing...
#5
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the advice guys. I am using a axial nut socket that fits pretty snug.
This bearing was replaced in 2010 so I hope it'* not welded on there. I have been listening to it for a while because it is hard to tell some times which side it is. one thing that is clear is that when I turn left, I can really here it good on the right side. When I turn right I don't really hear anything.
But I really don't want to do anything until I know that I can get that axial nut off.
Thanks again
This bearing was replaced in 2010 so I hope it'* not welded on there. I have been listening to it for a while because it is hard to tell some times which side it is. one thing that is clear is that when I turn left, I can really here it good on the right side. When I turn right I don't really hear anything.
But I really don't want to do anything until I know that I can get that axial nut off.
Thanks again
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morsmortis
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04-13-2004 01:42 AM