UIM f**k up on 95 Buick Regal 3.8L L27
#1
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Hey guys, quick question here concerning a piece I cannot identify. In advance, thank you SO much for any help you can offer me!
I was replacing the LIM gaskets on my girlfriend'* 1995 Buick Regal 3800 3.8L L27 Series 1. When beginning to put it all back together, and when I went to put the UIM back on, I accidentally dropped the middle piece of the intake manifold - shattering a corner.
Photos here: Imgur Link to Album of Photos
After countless searches online, and hours spent sifting through said search results, I can find absolutely nothing identifying the part in question. Considering it was already after 5pm here, the best I could do was to ask Autozone, O Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, and Napa for their opinions. Only the guy at NAPA had any sort of idea what I was talking about to begin with - and told me I would probably never be able to find it by itself (even from a dealer), and simply called it "part of the upper manifold". I am having a hard time accepting this.
The "piece" is separate by design - and therefore I would think I would be able to purchase it individually - like EVERY thing else on the car. I really would love to avoid pulling an UIM from the junk yard, or (more likely) purchasing a completely new one.
Does anyone know what I might call this piece in a search query?
Also, and most importantly, I cannot see where the broken corner in question would play an integral part in any manifold functions. Any opinions here? The manifold seal seems like it would still complete around it with the UIM in place, other areas on the piece indicate to me that a vacuum leak would not be an issue (as screw outlets in the plastic and a lack of gaskets seem to indicate that a seal on this particular part is covered by the LIM and UIM gasket seams), and none of the true purpose of the piece seems to be compromised. That being said, this is my girlfriends car, and, being so, I cannot afford to **** it up.
Anyway, I digress. I appreciate any possible insight you can give me on either the name of this piece, or whether or not the break pictured will cause a real issue.
Thanks again guys!![Confused](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Crying](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/crying.gif)
![Confused](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I was replacing the LIM gaskets on my girlfriend'* 1995 Buick Regal 3800 3.8L L27 Series 1. When beginning to put it all back together, and when I went to put the UIM back on, I accidentally dropped the middle piece of the intake manifold - shattering a corner.
Photos here: Imgur Link to Album of Photos
After countless searches online, and hours spent sifting through said search results, I can find absolutely nothing identifying the part in question. Considering it was already after 5pm here, the best I could do was to ask Autozone, O Reilly, Advance Auto Parts, and Napa for their opinions. Only the guy at NAPA had any sort of idea what I was talking about to begin with - and told me I would probably never be able to find it by itself (even from a dealer), and simply called it "part of the upper manifold". I am having a hard time accepting this.
The "piece" is separate by design - and therefore I would think I would be able to purchase it individually - like EVERY thing else on the car. I really would love to avoid pulling an UIM from the junk yard, or (more likely) purchasing a completely new one.
Does anyone know what I might call this piece in a search query?
Also, and most importantly, I cannot see where the broken corner in question would play an integral part in any manifold functions. Any opinions here? The manifold seal seems like it would still complete around it with the UIM in place, other areas on the piece indicate to me that a vacuum leak would not be an issue (as screw outlets in the plastic and a lack of gaskets seem to indicate that a seal on this particular part is covered by the LIM and UIM gasket seams), and none of the true purpose of the piece seems to be compromised. That being said, this is my girlfriends car, and, being so, I cannot afford to **** it up.
Anyway, I digress. I appreciate any possible insight you can give me on either the name of this piece, or whether or not the break pictured will cause a real issue.
Thanks again guys!
![Confused](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Crying](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/crying.gif)
![Confused](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/confused.gif)
![Crying](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/crying.gif)
#2
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True Car Nut
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I don't know what the piece is called, but it serves to direct air, likely adding length to the intake runner. Assuming it doesn't affect its operation, I still wouldn't want the possibility of it continuing to crumble and getting ingested in the engine.
You have mentioned in your other thread a coolant leak that was happening in an area where a failed UIM would leak. Were you ever able to identify the source of this leak?
Quite honestly, it is my direct recommendation to replace the UIM with new at this point. It solves the current dilemma (the insert is included usually), and prevents you from having to pull it again when the 20 year old chunk of plastic sitting on top of a boiling hot engine decides it doesn't like the thought of being fiddled with.
If you insist on moving forward with the current manifold, I would go to the junkyard and yank an insert. Heck, swipe the whole UIM while you are at it, LOL.
Like I said in the other thread, I have already been down this road once, and will likely have to do it sooner rather than later all over again. The Desert Southwest takes no prisoners in respects to plastics and rubbers.
You have mentioned in your other thread a coolant leak that was happening in an area where a failed UIM would leak. Were you ever able to identify the source of this leak?
Quite honestly, it is my direct recommendation to replace the UIM with new at this point. It solves the current dilemma (the insert is included usually), and prevents you from having to pull it again when the 20 year old chunk of plastic sitting on top of a boiling hot engine decides it doesn't like the thought of being fiddled with.
If you insist on moving forward with the current manifold, I would go to the junkyard and yank an insert. Heck, swipe the whole UIM while you are at it, LOL.
Like I said in the other thread, I have already been down this road once, and will likely have to do it sooner rather than later all over again. The Desert Southwest takes no prisoners in respects to plastics and rubbers.
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LIMber (02-05-2017)
#3
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Sorry for the late response - been busy! DIY mechanic work does not mix well with full time school and work.
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
#4
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Thread Starter
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I don't know what the piece is called, but it serves to direct air, likely adding length to the intake runner. Assuming it doesn't affect its operation, I still wouldn't want the possibility of it continuing to crumble and getting ingested in the engine.
You have mentioned in your other thread a coolant leak that was happening in an area where a failed UIM would leak. Were you ever able to identify the source of this leak?
Quite honestly, it is my direct recommendation to replace the UIM with new at this point. It solves the current dilemma (the insert is included usually), and prevents you from having to pull it again when the 20 year old chunk of plastic sitting on top of a boiling hot engine decides it doesn't like the thought of being fiddled with.
If you insist on moving forward with the current manifold, I would go to the junkyard and yank an insert. Heck, swipe the whole UIM while you are at it, LOL.
Like I said in the other thread, I have already been down this road once, and will likely have to do it sooner rather than later all over again. The Desert Southwest takes no prisoners in respects to plastics and rubbers.
You have mentioned in your other thread a coolant leak that was happening in an area where a failed UIM would leak. Were you ever able to identify the source of this leak?
Quite honestly, it is my direct recommendation to replace the UIM with new at this point. It solves the current dilemma (the insert is included usually), and prevents you from having to pull it again when the 20 year old chunk of plastic sitting on top of a boiling hot engine decides it doesn't like the thought of being fiddled with.
If you insist on moving forward with the current manifold, I would go to the junkyard and yank an insert. Heck, swipe the whole UIM while you are at it, LOL.
Like I said in the other thread, I have already been down this road once, and will likely have to do it sooner rather than later all over again. The Desert Southwest takes no prisoners in respects to plastics and rubbers.
Thank you for your reply, by the way. I just added a reply concerning the fix for the coolant leak and detailing my continuing high idle problems...
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#5
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Sorry for the late response - been busy! DIY mechanic work does not mix well with full time school and work.
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
Have you scanned for diagnostic trouble codes?
#7
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I've just been so hesitant to drive it anywhere to have the codes pulled. I am new to these repairs, and truly don't know if it can make it. I was planning on seeing today if Autozone will loan me the diagnostic tool for a quick scan.
#8
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Sorry for the late response - been busy! DIY mechanic work does not mix well with full time school and work.
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
I got down in there and found a visible crack on my LIM gasket. I've since finished that repair, and all seems to be well in regards to coolant issues. However, this did not solve my high idle problem. The car still idles around 2000 RPM immediately upon starting. After 30 seconds of running or so, the car gives the check engine signal and very suddenly drops to about 1500 RPMs. I plan on replacing the TPS, which is visibly sticking. However, most of what I can find online doesn't suggest this would cause a HIGH idle. I suppose from here i'll go:
1) IAC Valve complete replacement
2) Extensive vacuum leak checks.
Any suggestions otherwise?
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LIMber (02-05-2017)
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