Thats wayyyy to wet for water. Otherwise, it would be dry like the surrounding areas.

Looks like there was a leak there before/fairly recently to me, I'd keep an eye on it for sure.

You will need the tool to rewind the callipers when you replace the rear pads, they can be obtained from any good auto parts store for a few dollars.

Roger

when you do this, do yourself a favor and spray some wd-40 around the edge of the hub for when you undoubtedly will have to replace them down the road. mine both were corroded on so bad it took me about an hour with a creative use of some bolts to get them out. no amount of hits from the sledge would budge them.

The old Rotors & pads were a bit rusted.
The old pads did wear evenly though which was good.

The New Raybestos Rotors & pads went in w/no problems and adjusted ebrake while there. A couple of good ebrake applications after install is good for initial testing and all is well, grips like crazy on steep hills.
Oh there was no leaks at brake lines or callipers, just road wet before, all is well now!

I appreciate the new & safer front & rear brakes. Stopping power is important.
Inspect your brakes every year folks, keep a eye on your master levels as well.

New rotors look good, looks like you used the purple extreme ceramic grease, that is what I've used for a while, seems to do well and not harm the caliper pin boots any.
That rust looks normal, with a little humidity and iron you are going to get rust, even occasionally on the rotors if you do not drive for a while, a few long braking applications usually gets a bit of it off, so I have heard.

Good brakes can mean the difference in life or death, so +1 for checking them regularly!

Good job Art!