Getting the lock ring on and off was not hard with my new equipment.

However, I'm not quite sure which way to install the lock plate. It can be installed two ways.

The turn signal cancel cam horn tower must go through the round hole in the lock plate and a wide space in the outer rim of the lock plate must align with the lock bolt.

The spacing of the teeth on the inside of the lock plate are such that the lock plate can be put on with either face toward the steering wheel. But that alters the location on the outer rim.

When the lock bolt is engaging the lock plate, is the correct position for the front tires straight ahead, or angled just a bit one direction away from straight ahead?

The lock plate is not perfectly flat the center either is depressed away from the steering wheel (toward the bottom of the steering column) or toward the steering column.

The SIR coil must fit with the small bump on the edge toward the top of the lock housing cover. The front tires should be aligned straight ahead.

Anyone with experience or photos?

Thanks,

wnlewis

How do I remove the duplicate post?

The car is back together. Now I just have to get it to start.

It is very likely a poor connection at the battery on the positive terminal.

Sorry, I fell off the map for a bit. Glad you got it back together.

The side post batteries in these always seem to loosen up and sometimes corrode, especially on the positive side. I'd say take both terminals off and clean them and the leads really well, check the threads, and put it back together again.

I got it together but it won't start. So I'm taking it apart again to put in a new lock cylinder and possibly the new rack and sector gears.

This I plan to document, so here come photos.

Anyone with suggestions or questions please speak up.

Thanks. wnlewis

Before you do that, turn key to on, don't crank, and observe the SECURITY light....it should come on for 3 seconds and then go out....did it do this?

I just checked the old lock cylinder. One of the wires is broken.

With the key in the cylinder, the meter reading is 0.0L (dead open).

The new cylinder with a key in it gives a reading of 0.681 kOhms which is exactly correct for a VATS #3 pellet.

I will connect the battery, put the plug back in place and come back with an answer.

Give me about 25 minutes.

After screwing in the plug, I tried the new key in the new lock cylinder.

The new cylinder is not in position in the steering column, just connected electrically. No response from the dash or security light.

I put the old key in the old lock cylinder - which is in the column.

I turned the key to the run position.

The dash came on.

The security light flashed continually.

4:30 in the morning comes rather soon. So I am done for the day. Thank you all for your help. More tomorrow.

After screwing in the plug, I tried the new key in the new lock cylinder.

The new cylinder is not in position in the steering column, just connected electrically. No response from the dash or security light.
You will not get any response because the column is not in the run position...

I put the old key in the old lock cylinder - which is in the column.

I turned the key to the run position.

The dash came on.

The security light flashed continually.
Then that is your problem......If you move the old key in column to "on" position, and you have new key installed in the new lock cylinder, which is connected to the system correctly, that security light should come on for 3 seconds and go out....recheck your electrical connections.....also, is the resistance of the old key, THE SAME as the new key? if it isn't, that is your problem....

You probably set a P1629.....