^ I don't have an induction pickup tool, if I end up needing to then I'll just pull the plug and hold the ground against the engine to check spark, or between the wire and the coil would be easier since I already have the plug back in...

I got a "slight" bit more done, took the cylinder 1 plug out, examined it and it looked fine but re-gapped it anyway. Pulled the cable out of the loom in case it had a break, but then had to stop in a few minutes so put it back together and it seemed to run much smoother.

There was an empty mouse nest until the engine cover, but I looked very carefully at the wiring related to that cylinder, the spark plug and injector wires and did not see anything chewed up.

I still had the check engine light on, but ran out of time. The battery cable seems to need more attention too, turns out it wasn't just debris left behind fouling the contact but rather the bolt and hole are in bad shape. I have a new bolt around somewhere and will try that, which should also reset the light while the battery is disconnected.

While I was doing that, I noticed that the wire loom to the smaller, passenger side radiator fan was abrading away because it is loose, not attached anywhere nearby so the fan was rubbing against it. Is there a clip somewhere that is supposed to secure it? For the time being I just secured it out of the way with a wire tie to the cross-member under it. There was a hole in the cross-member right there so the clip may have broken off.

I have read that using the spark jump test can damage the ignition module. Hopefully some of the senior mechanics can chime in on that.

I took my computer out the other day because I was getting the check engine light coming on and going off and the only code was the torque converter code. I disconnected the negative cable to the battery first. Took the connectors off of the computer and used a special electric cleaner spray just in case the contacts were dirty. I had the battery disconnected for some time. When I put it all back together and connected the battery and checked, the stored codes were still there including the ready tests which I thought might have cleared out. I am guessing you would need to leave the battery disconnected for a good amount of time before it clears the computer out.

Not sure about the clip but I must say, plastic zip ties are one of the all time best inventions.

It shouldn't any risk of harm if done by touching the spark plug ground to the engine because it'* completing the same circuit, though the coil to the wire connection, it does seem like it would have to generate more voltage to jump an extra gap but I've never had damage doing it that way and have seen some youtube videos were pro mechanics used this method.

Anyway I've done one or the other for years on this era vehicles and never had a problem. If disconnecting the battery doesn't clear the code, I know my scan tool did because I rechecked codes and didn't have any until another dozen or two seconds had passed, then the CEL came back on and I found the same code again, but this was all before touching the spark plug and wire. Now it does run noticeably smoother so fingers crossed, I just need to clear the code and put new battery bolts on, maybe shim or coil them in if new bolts alone won't solve it. I shake my head every time I am reminded of GM'* *wise* decision to use these crappy side mount battery terminals. Sure, they work fine... until they don't.

Not if it'* for a short period of time.

I concur wholeheartedly without remorse.

If I remember correctly GM came out with the sealed AC-Delco batteries with the side terminals in the very early 70'* because of shipping concerns. Although the rail car haulers are double decker now, I think they may have tried rail shipping back then with the cars hood up to stack more cars per rail car. Or it may have been truck haulers, was a long time ago, anyway I may be in the minority but I like the side terminal batteries, I've never had one instance of terminal or cable corrosion with one of those, I've got better things to do with my time other than pulling out a wire brush and the baking soda.

^ huh? What does side terminals on a battery have to do with leaving a hood up and what does leaving a hood up, add to the clearance to get more cars on a carrier?

This is not the first time I've had to replace GM side terminal battery bolts, and I still don't know if the new bolt will catch on the battery hole threads. I'll probably end up trimming back some of that battery cable rubber boot, which deforms over time, and grind down some of the taper on the bolt ends to get a little more purchase on the threads to see if it'll screw in a little deeper.

You can greatly reduce corrosion on top terminal battery studs by putting a little dielectric grease over them with the cable clamp installed.

Sorry, I was unclear in my post, rather than saying hoods up, I should have said hood TILTED up, I believe GM experimented in the early 70'* shipping cars by rail with the cars stacked at a near 45 degree angle to fit more cars on said rail cars.

^ OH, yes I do remember seeing cars shipped that way, but what does side terminals have to do with that?

Decided to redo cleaning the battery cables again, this time taking the boots off, popping the bolts and spacers out, wire brushing and washing everything. New bolt took hold of the weak battery terminals threads fine.

In the process, what remainded of the battery tray fell out onto the driveway in little brown flakes, lol. I had a 3/8" thick sheet of plastic that I machined into shape to put down in its place, will come back later and put the battery hold-down block in the base of it once I pick up appropriate bolt/nuts/washers.

The P0301 code persisted after the battery had been disconnected well over an hour. Cleared code with scan tool, ran it a half hour to finish recharging the battery with no reappearance of any codes so for now, it'* done.