Does anyone else have any ideas on how to solve my problem??

I used NGK 7164 iridium spark plugs or TR55IX and had to open gap to .060 inch (factory recommend spec)
New out of box were set at .040 inch.eek ...check your gap.

my spark plugs are ACDELCO 41-101 Professional Iridium. Spark plugs are gaped at 0.060
Any other suggestions??

sounds like your car has a carbon deposits situation raising compression and increasing heat in cylinders. Is your egr working normally? A bad egr can cause issues with leaning out your mixture if it’* leaky or not providing enough exhaust gas to cool your cylinders.

try 91 octane in next fill up. Get ion an on ramp for a freeway up hill, do some PULLS. Accelerate WOT, DO IT A FEW TIMES. put some ponies down. Might just help, put some injector cleaner with 91 in.

a colder thermostat for summer might help if it’* a temp issue but that’* not a fix all solution some may think

is your return line working properly?

I agree with OM1990 regarding the EGR. Take it off and check for free operation of the pintle. It may be "carboned up" and malfunctioning intermittently. I had this happen several years ago with a 1997 Olds 88 with about 88k miles on it at the time. It eventually threw an EGR code but the initial symptoms were hesitation when I was nearing the end of my long commute home in the warmer months.
Clean the EGR pintle with some Carburetor cleaner or equivalent.

I took your advice and removed the egr valve for inspection. It appears to be fairly clean with little carbon coating and the pinicle and it moved in and out freely but
I sprayed it with carb. cleaner and no difference in the pinicle movement. I have yet to try a long drive with it again.

I think i called the pinicle the wrong name....ill call it the plunger which goes up and down. Sorry for that error.

Having owned a PA for a good while my first thought was the ICM, I have heard of them getting to hot and causing stalling, never had that happen to me though..
The thermal paste is not a bad idea, if I used any I'd go for Arctic Silver V, will help shield the ICM from heat a bit, almost as well as it helps transfer it to PC heatsinks to help it dissipate.
I have head on some cars with our motors guys have used like 2 bolts and kind of used them to make a "stand off" kind of like PC mobo'* have stand offs keeping them off of the cases.
I cannot remember how it bolts on or I'd suggest a washer or two..
If that could be done I think that would be the most effective way of eliminating some of the heat soak the ICM gets...
I think they are supposed to get kind of hot because they are dumping off heat from the grounding going on at that point, at least I think I read about something like that somewhere...

The word is PINTLE. Just spraying it is only half the battle. Try to remove as much carbon as you can with a small wire brush and/or a small screwdriver.

Thank you for your suggestion, I might try that if nothing else works. Right now i'm up to trying the EGR valve cleaning suggestion and will test the car
again when the weather gets to 80F and above.I really wish others had that problem with their 3800 series II engine and resolved it.