Balljoints, please help!
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Hi guys,
Doing balljoints on my 1994 Buick Lesabre and purchased AC Delco 462136A Advantage. From what I have read, spec is 88in/lbs, then turn two flats of the nut in which 41ft/lbs min should be attained. From there, turn max of 1 additional flat to line up cotter pin hole. Call AC DELCO tech line and they said 41ft lbs + whatever to line up cotter pin hole. The big problem here is the thread on the factory studs is like 1.5mm and the AC Delco balljoint stud is 1.25mm so it'* finer.
Can you all please advise me on the torque spec situation?
As a side note, I was not very impressed with these balljoints in general. The new stud nut is not flanged, one of the nyloc mounting nuts was missing the nyloc ring......? Since I'm only done with one side, I'm thinking of just starting over and getting a better brand.
thanks in advance!!
Drew
Doing balljoints on my 1994 Buick Lesabre and purchased AC Delco 462136A Advantage. From what I have read, spec is 88in/lbs, then turn two flats of the nut in which 41ft/lbs min should be attained. From there, turn max of 1 additional flat to line up cotter pin hole. Call AC DELCO tech line and they said 41ft lbs + whatever to line up cotter pin hole. The big problem here is the thread on the factory studs is like 1.5mm and the AC Delco balljoint stud is 1.25mm so it'* finer.
Can you all please advise me on the torque spec situation?
As a side note, I was not very impressed with these balljoints in general. The new stud nut is not flanged, one of the nyloc mounting nuts was missing the nyloc ring......? Since I'm only done with one side, I'm thinking of just starting over and getting a better brand.
thanks in advance!!
Drew
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You could always go with the minimum torque spec rating for that grade of bolt/size/thread using the chart via Google. Then increase torque to line up holes. As far as the nylock goes, you could take the whole box back to the store, show them the nut and maybe they will just pull one out of another box. But, if its held in via cotter pin, you could say **** on it, and just use red Loctite. Its safetied in anyway.
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Can anyone please confirm what the factory torque spec is on the balljoint stud?
- Called AC Delco (46D2136A) and they said the spec is OE and torque is 41ft lbs + turn to line up cotter pin
- Called Moog (K5295) and they said spec is 37 ft lbs + turn to line up cotter pin
- Called Mevotech (GK5295) and they said spec is 88in/lbs + 120 degrees + turn to line up cotter pin (said info was from Alldata)
- Autozone repair manual shows 88in/lbs + 120 degrees + turn to line up cotter pin-
- Called dealer and they said for OE Balljoints, the torque is 41-48, nothing about degrees of turn.
- Called AC Delco (46D2136A) and they said the spec is OE and torque is 41ft lbs + turn to line up cotter pin
- Called Moog (K5295) and they said spec is 37 ft lbs + turn to line up cotter pin
- Called Mevotech (GK5295) and they said spec is 88in/lbs + 120 degrees + turn to line up cotter pin (said info was from Alldata)
- Autozone repair manual shows 88in/lbs + 120 degrees + turn to line up cotter pin-
- Called dealer and they said for OE Balljoints, the torque is 41-48, nothing about degrees of turn.
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What, my suggestion wasn't good enough? Even compared to what you were told by everyone else, mine was probably more accurate.
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Mike,
Don't be offended, I meant nothing by it.
I understand and appreciate your suggestions regarding torque vs fastener size. A few problems though....those min torque guidelines are just that....general guidelines. Not sure on the grade of the stud. How does the guideline change when you add an intersecting hole for a cotter pin? A lot of unknowns and I think I would be doing myself a disservice by referring to a general fastener webpage on google for installing something as critical as a balljoint. Would like to have a bit more confidence and consensus in the procedure. Don't you agree?
Let'* boil this down to what I really need. What is OE Spec? Was it revised?
thanks,
Drew
Don't be offended, I meant nothing by it.
I understand and appreciate your suggestions regarding torque vs fastener size. A few problems though....those min torque guidelines are just that....general guidelines. Not sure on the grade of the stud. How does the guideline change when you add an intersecting hole for a cotter pin? A lot of unknowns and I think I would be doing myself a disservice by referring to a general fastener webpage on google for installing something as critical as a balljoint. Would like to have a bit more confidence and consensus in the procedure. Don't you agree?
Let'* boil this down to what I really need. What is OE Spec? Was it revised?
thanks,
Drew
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We don't have OE specs here.
You could go by what every other tech does. 2 ugga duggas with the impact, shove the cotter pin in, ship it. I don't know why your so worried about the torque. The cotter pin is what keeps it from backing off. The torque of the nut is designed to compress the bolt into it'* resting place without stretching.
You could go by what every other tech does. 2 ugga duggas with the impact, shove the cotter pin in, ship it. I don't know why your so worried about the torque. The cotter pin is what keeps it from backing off. The torque of the nut is designed to compress the bolt into it'* resting place without stretching.
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Mike,
Are you telling me that nobody in this forum has done balljoints and had to source OE spec? Sorry, maybe this is the wrong sub forum..Im looking for the tech section. I apologize if I posted in the wrong area.
As a side note, just because a lot of techs cut corners doesn't mean its ok. Please don't marginalize that behavior even though it'* widespread in the industry. Automotive techs and the auto business in general already struggles with integrity issues...some of which is caused by exactly what you are saying. A torque spec is provided so folks follow it. Tell your service manager you ugga balljoints and suspension stuff on all your jobs and see how far that gets ya. On a personal level, it'* your business on how you tighten fasteners but I hope you don't send you fam and kids down the road with stuff run in with the impact. Especially with balljoints where the knuckle has a machined taper...what do you think happens to the knuckle when you overtighten the balljoint? Tighter is better does not apply here.
To humor you though.....when someone tells me to use OE specs I assume the balljoint has OE thread pitch. That'* a reasonable assumption, right? When you have a spec that calls out tightening X number of degrees, the resulting torque will change change based on the thread pitch. OE spec should not follow a design change. After talking to that local GM dealer, they now specify a min/max. Should I set my impact to 3 or 4 for this one?![Wink](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Drew
The manufacturer clearly said
Are you telling me that nobody in this forum has done balljoints and had to source OE spec? Sorry, maybe this is the wrong sub forum..Im looking for the tech section. I apologize if I posted in the wrong area.
As a side note, just because a lot of techs cut corners doesn't mean its ok. Please don't marginalize that behavior even though it'* widespread in the industry. Automotive techs and the auto business in general already struggles with integrity issues...some of which is caused by exactly what you are saying. A torque spec is provided so folks follow it. Tell your service manager you ugga balljoints and suspension stuff on all your jobs and see how far that gets ya. On a personal level, it'* your business on how you tighten fasteners but I hope you don't send you fam and kids down the road with stuff run in with the impact. Especially with balljoints where the knuckle has a machined taper...what do you think happens to the knuckle when you overtighten the balljoint? Tighter is better does not apply here.
To humor you though.....when someone tells me to use OE specs I assume the balljoint has OE thread pitch. That'* a reasonable assumption, right? When you have a spec that calls out tightening X number of degrees, the resulting torque will change change based on the thread pitch. OE spec should not follow a design change. After talking to that local GM dealer, they now specify a min/max. Should I set my impact to 3 or 4 for this one?
![Wink](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Drew
The manufacturer clearly said
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I'm pretty sure just about everyone here that HAS done them, did them without a specific spec. If they did find a spec, it was probably one of the specs you found. And I'm sure, even today, there are fasteners out and about that are under torqued and seriously over torqued and are doing just fine. Even the car parked right next to you.
Lemme throw something else into your equation. The cheaper the torque wrench, the higher +/- calibration it will be off. So, in the long run, it doesn't matter what the spec is, it won't be torqued right anyway. Oh, here'* another one. Are those specs based on the fastener being wet with oil, or dry?
Lemme throw something else into your equation. The cheaper the torque wrench, the higher +/- calibration it will be off. So, in the long run, it doesn't matter what the spec is, it won't be torqued right anyway. Oh, here'* another one. Are those specs based on the fastener being wet with oil, or dry?
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Mike,
Sorry, I call BS on most people here doing ball joints without a torque spec. Again, there is a right and there is a wrong. Sure, maybe folks that over/under torque might be ok but still doesn't make it right. Bolting on an alternator by feel? Ok, I get ya. I will even impact the pulley on
Certain things, I am on board with. Not suspension, not brakes.
- I use a dial (personally like CDI) wrench on fasteners that are more complicated (ball joints, con rods, pinion, etc) than simply bolting two pieces of metal together.
- Fasteners are dry and clean unless stated otherwise by manufacturer.
You are sort of proving my point though....with all the variables, the LEAST you can do is have a spec to go by. And seriously dude, I get it. You are the big dog over here on this forum and have a certain way of doing things. I don't care how you do your suspension work, there is a spec and I'm going to follow it. I just want to know if anyone has OE balljoint spec or can provide another data point here.
thanks,
Drew
Sorry, I call BS on most people here doing ball joints without a torque spec. Again, there is a right and there is a wrong. Sure, maybe folks that over/under torque might be ok but still doesn't make it right. Bolting on an alternator by feel? Ok, I get ya. I will even impact the pulley on
![Wink](https://www.gmforum.com/gm/images/smilies/wink.gif)
- I use a dial (personally like CDI) wrench on fasteners that are more complicated (ball joints, con rods, pinion, etc) than simply bolting two pieces of metal together.
- Fasteners are dry and clean unless stated otherwise by manufacturer.
You are sort of proving my point though....with all the variables, the LEAST you can do is have a spec to go by. And seriously dude, I get it. You are the big dog over here on this forum and have a certain way of doing things. I don't care how you do your suspension work, there is a spec and I'm going to follow it. I just want to know if anyone has OE balljoint spec or can provide another data point here.
thanks,
Drew